Keeping Cool in the Summer

Just because their wild cousins don’t have access to air conditioning, doesn’t mean our domesticated rabbit companions are also fine on their own during the summer. Not only are domestic rabbits a distinct species, they also don’t have the ability to burrow in the ground to spend the sweltering hours of a summer day in cool underground tunnels. But I’m sure most readers already agree on the importance of indoor housing for our rabbits.

Nevertheless, this doesn’t mean we can ignore the dangers of heat and humidity entirely. Upstairs levels of houses/apartments and sunrooms tend to concentrate warm air and negate wind to form greenhouse-like containers of extreme heat and humidity. If you are feeling uncomfortable inside, put on a giant (faux) fur coat to see how your rabbit feels. And it’s not just a matter of comfort-level; it’s a relevant medical concern—heat stroke is one of the top killers of the domestic rabbit. Temperatures above 80 degrees are dangerous, especially when dehydration or environmental stressors are also present.


Tips to keep your rabbit cool on a hot day:

1. A window air conditioning unit is your best friend and absolutely worth the investment. (I only bought an air conditioner once I had my first rabbit.) It's the easiest way to safely cool down you and your bunny's environment.

2. Fans can be helpful, but at a certain point they only serve to circulate warm air. Coupling a fan with an air conditioner can lower energy costs by reducing the needed strength and length of use of the AC unit, while maximizing cooling efforts.

3. A hot rabbit does not want to lie on carpet, so allow her onto an alternate surface or provide a ceramic tile block to lie on. Put the tile in the fridge for an hour for an even cooler surface!

4. A frozen water bottle can make a cool cuddle buddy on a hot summer day.

5. Since rabbits radiate heat from their ears, rubbing an ice cube or dabbing a little cold water on the outside of their ears can assist their cooling down efforts. Applying some water to the back of their necks can increase the evaporative cooling effect too. Avoid getting water into the ear canals though, as this can lead to irritation or even infection.

6. Frequently brush or manually remove loose fur to keep the coat at a minimum density. If you have a long-haired rabbit, such as an Angora or Jersey Wooly, consider trimming their fur with electric clippers (have your vet show you how) for the summer months. In fact, it’s a good idea to keep the fur short year-round to prevent matting and excessive fur ingestion.

7. As with people, adequate hydration is an important part of avoiding heat stroke. Provide a large bowl with fresh, chilled water and serve your bunny's daily veggies extra moistened.

8. If you have the option, a rabbit-proofed, finished basement can be a great place for a rabbit in the summer months, as they are usually the coolest part of the house. Basements tend to also be low-traffic, so make sure you spend adequate time downstairs so your rabbit doesn't get lonely or bored. Move your computer or the TV (don't forget to hide the wires!) to the basement so you can continue spending quality time together. Or allow your bun the opportunity to willingly come upstairs for some socializing when the mood strikes. This may involve helping her understand stairs and how to properly use them.


Most importantly, always be cognizant of the temperature and carefully note any changes in your pet's behavior or appetite. An overheated rabbit will be inactive and could also stop eating, further jeopardizing her health. Take the issue of heat seriously and be proactive at helping your fur friend stay cool. In the event of a heat stroke, wrap ice packs around your bunny and get her to a rabbit savvy vet as fast as possible.

Health Special: Malocclusion in Rabbits

Malocclusion, referring to the misalignment of teeth, is a common ailment of the house rabbit. As with dogs bred to have “cute” smushed-in faces, certain breeds of rabbit, like the dwarf varieties, are especially prone to congenital deformities of the mouth. What makes malocclusion so serious for bunnies, however, is that rabbit teeth grow continuously. Normally, their teeth match up perfectly, so they’re kept ground down by the action of chewing. (Just one more reason giving your rabbit unlimited hay is so important!) Since maloccluded incisors don't match up, the teeth don’t file down and instead continue growing endlessly. As the incisors become overgrown, eating and drinking become harder and harder for the rabbit, all the while causing significant discomfort inside and outside the mouth as the teeth grow into the roof of the mouth and dig into the surrounding skin of the face. Untreated, this malformation can cause a slow and painful death.

Trimming teeth is not recommended because microfractures, a common sequelae, can lead to tooth root abscesses. Grinding down the teeth every two months or so is sometimes the only viable solution for the cheek teeth; but maloccluded incisors can also be extracted, fixing the problems permanently.

Recently, a rabbit with malocclusion and severely overgrown incisors arrived at the local shelter. Due to his complicated and chronic medical condition, he was slated for euthanasia. 

I, on the other hand, wasn’t ready to give up that easily. After consulting with some fellow rabbit experts at House Rabbit Network, I learned that extracting the rabbit's incisors could give him a chance at being healthy, and therefore, adoption. It seemed simple enough—the defective six front teeth would be removed, and after the mouth healed, he would learn to use his lips to pick up food and use the rest of his 22 teeth to grind his food. I spoke with a fantastic veterinarian at the VCA Wakefield Animal Hospital who explained that the surgery was relatively straightforward, the recovery was minimal, and, she said, the rabbit would be as good as new when it was over. In fact, he would even have a slight advantage over rabbits looking for homes—with no front teeth, rabbit-proofing would be a breeze!

I immediately brought the rabbit, who I had named Charley, home. He was severely underweight and malnourished from weeks of eating difficulties, so I spent a couple days feeding him a high-calorie, high-fiber, easy-to-chew diet, which included Critical Care, oatmeal, canned pumpkin, vegetable medley baby food, chopped strawberries, collard greens and cilantro, and even timothy hay broken into small, bite-sized bits. He chowed down for two days straight, and proved his will to live by bouncing all over my house and spending hours sleeping in my lap. Fortunately, House Rabbit Network had offered to foot the bill for the surgery, so after he had regained some strength, we were ready. On an early Wednesday morning, we drove up to Wakefield and Charley had his six front teeth pulled (he was also neutered at the same time). I picked him up that evening, and he was, though drugged, already acting a little feisty. By the next morning, he was eating Critical Care and pumpkin mush and three days later was eating entire bowls of pellets, chopped up greens, and even his hay.

He’s now a happy, rambunctious little guy, and might I add, perfectly adoptable. I hope this story inspires other owners and shelters with rabbits with dental problems to consider this alternative. As Charley sprints around my living room like a maniac, I can say with full confidence, that incisor extraction is a fantastically helpful surgery, a procedure we would both recommend to anyone.

Charley Before

Charley After

Question from the Audience: Paw Flicking

A question from Elsie C. in Manchester, UK:

Q: My one year old house rabbit keeps flicking his front paws, one at a time. It is a kind of flick/shake. Any idea why? He is also quieter than normal instead of running around.

A: Rabbits usually flick their paws right before they plan to groom their faces or ears. Is he flicking his paws for a few seconds and then grooming himself? Is so, that is absolutely fine. If he is just flicking his paws repeatedly, then it would be worth it to have a closer look at his paws (is there something stuck to them? does he have a splinter or something of the sort? are they hurting? are they numb? do his nails need to be trimmed/getting caught in the carpet?). If you can't determine anything off about his paws, it might be a good idea to have a vet take a closer look at them.

I'd actually be more worried about him being "quieter than normal." Rabbits, being prey animals, really work to hide their symptoms. Once a rabbit is exhibiting unusual behaviors, you really want to pay close attention. Is he eating the same amount? Bathroom behaviors changed/droppings look the same? Acting depressed? Listless? If you said yes to any of these four questions, then don't wait to make an appointment with a rabbit-savvy veterinarian. These are surefire signs something is not right with your bunny, and when it's reached a stage with any of these symptoms, things can go very fast.

Question from the Audience: Hiccups?

A question from Travis J. in Long Island, NY:
Q: I have a 5 year old Dwarf Rabbit. She is in great health- she is spayed, has a healthy diet and goes in regularly for check ups with her exceptional vet. Every so often, usually after jumping out of the cage and running around a bit, when she sits down or relaxes for a moment- she begins to twitch (her entire body). It looks similar to when someone has the hiccups. Its usually about 10 twitches lasting about 15 seconds. If I walk to her and pet her during the twitches, she stops twitching. Sometimes she will continue twitching the moment I take my hand off of her. Have you ever heard of this?


A: You correctly identified this weird twitching behavior as hiccups, although it is strange because when a hiccuping rabbit is touched, she does stop twitching (suggesting the behavior is voluntary to a certain degree). It can be scary to see, especially the first few times, because it looks somewhat painful or like a seizure, but it's just regular old hiccups.

As usual, make sure your rabbit is eating and drinking normally, in case the hiccups are being caused by disturbances in the GI tract. Other than that, it's most likely nothing to be worried about!

Question from the Audience: Blood in the Urine?

A question from Trish M. in Marion, OH:
Q: I am noticing that when I change my rabbits' litterboxes that there is a brownish tinge to it, almost looks like old blood, but I am wondering if this is due to the urine and pebbles mixing or if it could be something else? Does this sound familiar? I put down newspaper and pine chips, but then it has a grate over that so they don't get to the chips or anything. Any suggestions?

A: While it can be very troubling to see little puddles of dark reddish urine in your rabbits' litterbox, this is not necessarily anything worry about. Certain vegetable pigments can turn a rabbit's urine to a bright red, dark brown or even a dark yellow color. However, if the change in urine color is accompanied by a change in litterbox habits, a change in behavior (acting sluggish or depressed), or a change in dietary habits, then a vet visit is definitely warranted. A veterinarian can test for the presence of blood in the urine and check for kidney disease, reproductive cancers, etc. 

On a sidenote, you do mention that you use pine chips as the litter. Despite the prevalence and availability of these litters in pet stores, pine chips and other wood shavings have been shown to cause liver damage in rabbits. Switch to a pelleted paper litter, such as Yesterday's News and add a generous layer of timothy hay on top. (Yesterday's News, while being perfectly safe, also has unbeatable absorbency, odor control, and is environmentally friendly as it's made from recycled newspapers). The good news is that any sustained liver damage from the shavings can clear up once the litter is switched. And with using a safe litter, you'll no longer need a grate to cover the ever-so-fun-to-dig-in litterbox. 

The Essentials: Health Care Overview

A good owner should constantly be aware of any changes in their rabbit's behavior and digestive habits, as differences in these areas are the most telling about overall health. Symptoms that rabbits exhibit are subtle; acting lethargic or suddenly disinterested is a sign of trouble, while anorexia and changes in droppings and urinary habits are surefire signs of medical problems. A rabbit in pain will lie with its extremities pulled in tightly, eyes half-shut, will want to be left alone, and sometimes grind its teeth in pain. If your rabbit is acting this way, seek immediate medical assistance.

Rabbits should get a thorough look-over about once a month to make sure everything is running smoothly, though preventative care is key to keeping your rabbit happy and healthy.

Grooming
Different breeds have different grooming needs. Angoras and other long-haired breeds require daily grooming, while most short-hair breeds need just a weekly to biweekly brushing. During molts, increase the grooming frequency and make sure to remove loose fur so that the rabbit does not ingest too much of it.

Rabbits should get their nails clipped once every two months. You should also check their teeth, eyes, nose, and ears for any abnormalities or changes, and look over their bodies for any signs of lumps, abscesses, infection, scrapes, or parasites. Approximately every two-three months, you should check the genital area to see if the scent glands need to be cleaned.

Diet
Feeding your rabbit a healthy, balanced diet can eliminate many of the health problems domestic rabbits face. Offer unlimited hay, a variety of vegetables, and a restricted amount of pellets, about 1/8 cup per 4 lbs of rabbit. Rabbits have highly sensitive digestive tracts, so monitor their intake and output very carefully and note any changes. As aforementioned, abberations in this area are the largest indicators of a serious medical problem.

Spay/Neuter
Spaying and neutering is an essential part of rabbit health care. The surgery eliminates a variety of health problems and adds years to a rabbit's life.

Rabbit-Proofing
Make sure to clean your bunny's litterbox and food and water bowls frequently, providing clean, fresh water on a daily basis. Rabbits should be housed indoors to ensure they remain physically and mentally healthy. Inside, watch out for poisonous plants, electrical cords, lead-tainted paint. During the summer months, pay close attention to the temperature in your house, as temperatures above 85 ºF can be disastrous to a rabbit's health.

The more you bond with your bunny, the sooner you'll be able to detect changes that may indicate a medical problem. In the case of rabbit health care, love just might be the best medicine.

Question from the Audience: Bunny Slipper Love... The Importance of Spaying and Neutering

A question from Katie R. in Boston, MA:
Q: I have a male newfoundland dwarf bunny, Max. I was away this weekend and my brother took care of him. Anyway we got back to my apartment and an hour after returning home, he basically showed obviously signs he's "in heat" and has countless times tried to initiate sexual relations with my bunny slippers. Been following me around my apartment trying to get whatever he can. I've had him since July 08 and this is the first time I've seen him do this before. Any suggestions?

The Victims

A: Congratulations! Max is becoming a man. Or at least, he's reached sexual maturity. The cute, funny behaviors that he's displaying are only cute and funny the first few times. Then, they get annoying quickly, and you'll soon start noticing behaviors that are by nobody's definition cute nor funny. While some behaviors, like territorial marking, are a hassle to clean up, other behaviors have far graver consequences. Max can and should get fixed at this point. Since the surgery is safe for males after 5 months (and safe for females after 6 months), you can go ahead with the procedure. Not convinced? Let's overview the benefits of getting your house rabbit spayed or neutered:

Health
Fixed rabbits live much longer lives as they avoid an array of health complications, such as various reproductive cancers and injuries from raging-hormone-induced fights or aggressive sexual behaviors among one another. An unspayed female has a 70-80% chance of developing uterine cancer. Testicular cancer, while not as common as uterine cancer, is a possibility for intact males. 

Behavior
Rabbits that have been fixed are calmer and more relaxed; they are also much less aggressive. (I have a scar on my forearm to prove that even the nicest bunny can take a vicious chunk out of your arm in the heat of the moment!) Spaying and neutering also reduces destructive behaviors, especially in females who may be digging and destroying your furniture in an attempt to prepare for (real or imagined) pregnancies. Many behaviors that accompany an intact bunny--humping, circling and chasing--start off being cute, but quickly turn annoying and overwhelming, and sometimes even aggressive and dangerous.

Litterbox Training
It's notably easier to litterbox train a rabbit who's been fixed. Additionally, unneutered males (and females) will oftentimes spray urine, sometimes to shocking distances, in an effort to mark their territory. Such territorial marking becomes an overwhelming hassle to clean up day after day.

Friends
Once your rabbit is fixed, she can have as many friends as she likes. Rabbits are social animals and the majority of them thoroughly enjoy the company of other rabbits. However, until the surgery, it's dangerous to put two rabbits together, for fear of fighting and the overwhelming risk of pregnancies.

Overpopulation
There's a good reason rabbits crop up in all sorts of saying about procreating--they reproduce with mind-blowing efficiency and in great quantities. Putting an unfixed male and female together will inevitably result in litter after litter of baby bunnies. With so many homeless rabbits waiting at shelters across the country, it just isn't right to introduce any more animals into the mix. Even if you somehow are able to find homes for the babies, those babies are taking the places of shelter rabbits who may be put down for lack of space.

The bottom line is that spayed and neutered rabbits simply make better pets. They are happier and more interested in bonding with their human companions once the undeniable and all-consuming urge to copulate is removed. With numerous behavioral problems and medical complications virtually eliminated, it makes sense to proceed with this safe and highly successful surgery. Get Max to a rabbit-experienced vet as soon as possible. With the irrefutable benefits, there's no way around it--it's the single best thing you can do for your pet, other rabbits, and you!

Question from the Audience: Eye Health

A question from Michelle A. in Quincy, MA:
Q: Our rabbit is a Siamese, sable dwarf-chocolate brown 4 year old. Buddie is a great rabbit and eats a good balanced diet. Occasionally his right eye has a wet discharge and can be a bit goopy. I bath it w/clean warm water and it seems to clear up. Have you seen this before?

A: As with all health concerns, the wisest course of action is to see a rabbit-savvy vet to rule out any serious medical complications. While the discharge could be from allergies or a temporarily lodged particle, it could also indicate a more serious problem such as an infection, which would require antibiotics. A blocked tear duct or congenital defect could also be the cause, which might require preventative or therapeutic treatment such as a nasolacrimal duct flush, anti-inflammatory eye drops, or antibiotics. It's best to be safe and get Buddie checked out. In the meantime, experiment with new types of litter and try shaking out his hay. Certain types of litter (see HRS's Litter Comparisons chart for specifics) can not only irritate the liver and respiratory system, but the eyes, nose, and mouth.

A House Rabbit is a Happy Rabbit

Up until relatively recently, most pet rabbits were relegated to backyards to be housed in wooden hutches. Now, we've realized how much these intelligent, humorous, and sensitive creatures (and we) benefit from their indoor residencies.

Health and Safety
Healthwise, indoor rabbits aren't faced with the same worries as their outdoor counterparts. Outdoor hutch rabbits have to contend with a variety of parasites, flies, and infections, not to mention prey animals, such as raccoons, domestic dogs, etc. Even if a hutch is physically secure, it's not enough—countless rabbits have died from shock or panic-induced injuries brought on by the mere presence of an outdoor predator.

Alongside predators and parasites, the outdoor elements pose significant risks. Heatstroke is one of the most relevant hazards, and it should come as no surprise considering the rabbit's inability to sweat, their permanent fur outfits, and elevated basal body temperatures (at around 102 ºF*). Outdoor (and indoor) temperatures of 85 ºF and above can be seriously devastating for rabbits; even if provided with fans, ice bottles, etc., such high temperatures are unbearably uncomfortable at best and deadly at their worst.

While comparatively less serious, cold weather poses its own variety of complications. Pneumonia and hypothermia (if the rabbit gets wet) are significant risks; and temperatures below freezing can (obviously) freeze the drinking water and cause dangerous dehydration.

In addition to the above mentioned health risks faced by outdoor bunnies, indoor rabbits are more carefully observed by their owners. Since rabbit illness symptoms are very subtle, (as to not alert prey to any weaknesses) a close relationship and acute awareness are vital to spotting changes in health and seeking prompt medical attention.

Exercise and Interaction
It's notably more difficult to provide an outdoor bunny with ample exercise. Whereas indoor rabbits can be allowed to roam around a room while you go about everyday activities, giving an outdoor bunny exercise requires the added effort of setting up an exercise pen and providing your undivided attention, and therefore will likely be neglected during busy times or in unpleasant weather conditions. With less out-of-cage time comes decreased mental stimulation and human interaction and increased boredom, destruction, and depression.

And with less interactive bonding time, you miss the opportunity to develop a profound and rewarding friendship. You also miss out the oftentimes hilarious and entertaining show that is a house rabbit: flying leaps, ninja kicks, head twitches, and over-flops!

Perspective
Sadly, outdoor rabbits tend to get thought of as objects in the backyard, instead of sentient beings with individual personalities and extensive emotional lives. Outdoor rabbits are often neglected and as a consequence revert to a wild-like state; their owners never realize the rabbit's capacity for love, friendship, and humor.

All in all, indoor rabbits live happier, healthier and longer lives. If you currently own an outdoor rabbit, strongly consider bringing her indoors. A former hutch rabbit can just as easily be trained to use a litterbox as any other rabbit. You'll be surprised at how well an indoor rabbit complements your life. A house rabbit makes for a happy rabbit, and a happy owner too!

Trixie happily considers the advantages of being a cozy,
indoor house rabbit.
(Photo courtesy of Linda M. in San Jose, CA.)

* Dawson, Bronwyn, DVM. "Dealing With Medical Emergencies." House Rabbit Society.

The Importance of a Rabbit-Savvy Vet

Rabbits require very species-specific care that exotics inexperienced veterinarians are just not capable of providing, as certain medical conventions vary greatly between rabbits and their more conventional dog and cat counterparts. Rabbit-savvy vets know which commonly used antibiotics are dangerous for rabbits (especially Amoxicillin!); they know that rabbits cannot vomit and have highly sensitive gastrointestinal tracts, and therefore removing food and water before surgery is not only unnecessary but increases risk; and naturally, they know which diseases and conditions are specific to and more prevalent in rabbits.

Clearly, it's important to take the time to make sure your veterinarian has experience practicing rabbit medicine and surgery. When searching for a vet, don't hesitate to inquire about a potential vet's history, comfort-level, and experience. The House Rabbit Society has compiled a terrific list of experienced rabbit vets by state. If no one is listed close by, strongly consider commuting, or search for avian/exotic vets (rabbit knowledgeable medical professionals are most often classified as such) in your area and ask for recommendations. It might not be simple finding the perfectly qualified and dedicated vet, but when your pet's health is on the line, it's worth every effort!

The Rabbit Advocate friend, Augustus Cuddlesworth, belonging to Adrienne F. in Washington, D.C., is recovering from a broken front leg after getting it caught in the cage during a minor freak-out episode. Feel better soon, little buddy!

Making Sense of Scents

Rabbits use two types of scent glands to mark their territory and communicate vital stats among one another—one under their chin and the other in their vent area. You may have noticed your bunny rubbing her chin on furniture, toys, food, or even you. It's her way of claiming ownership and proudly declaring, "That's mine!" You can sometimes observe rabbits, as well as various other mammals, scratching their chins with their hind legs and running around their (sometimes invented) territory, distributing their scent around the perimeter.

While the chin scent glands serve as subtler hints, the scent glands in the vent area, called inguinal scent glands, located on either side of the genitalia of both males and females, excrete a strong smell detectable even by humans. The rabbit is able to attach this scent to specific kinds of territorial droppings. However, rabbits frequently do not clean themselves properly, either due to weight or laziness, and the glands can become impacted and require your assistance.

When the inguinal scent glands are noticeably odorous, it’s time for a cleaning. I'll preface this by saying that you can't expect every part of owning a pet to be pleasant and great fun. Inguinal scent gland cleaning likely ranks high up there with the world's less pleasant pet ownership duties, but it's truly not that bad (besides the unpleasant odor). Your veterinarian can show you how to do it the first time, or you can just have them do it at quarterly vet visits. It's possible to do it at home as long as you can get a good grip on your rabbit, or wrap her in a towel, and are able to secure them on their backs or bottoms. If you're really skilled, you can do it by yourself, but the first few times you'll want to ask a (really) good friend to help out.

First, grab some Vaseline, Q-tips and tissues. Make sure you are sitting on the floor, so if the poor thing does wriggle out, she is safely close to the ground. Make the vent area accessible and expose the two slits on either side of the genitals. With a Vaseline coated Q-tip, wipe out the dark brown waxy substance.* Keep in mind to do all this very carefully because the area is very sensitive and be aware that many rabbits get quite offended by all the activity down there, so keep them calm by talking soothingly and petting their heads. That's pretty much all there is to inguinal scent gland cleaning. I hope it's not as terrible as you imagined!

*Hold your breath while doing this.

Question from the Audience: Change in Cleaning Habbits

A question from Alison C. in Chicago, IL:
Q: My English Lop is 4 years old and recently she has not been cleaning herself well. It is urine that she is not cleaning and it is on her fur, around her back legs. She did this last year and I brought her to the vet, and over $100 later I find out she had a tiny infection from a nail that probably got stuck on her cage or something and then became infected. So when I noticed this again (her not being very clean and the hair around her legs are dirty) I examined her and found nothing. Is there anything else you think could be going on? She is eating and drinking normally and also her bathroom habits are the same. I am just seeing if you may have any ideas. Thanks!

A: While it's hard to diagnose a problem from a distance, I have a few ideas for you to consider:
1) Overweight rabbits often have trouble cleaning themselves. Does she look very round? Does she get unlimited pellets? If so, it might be time to limit her daily pellet allowance and instead provide her with extra fresh veggies, and of course, unlimited hay. In fact, this is a good idea regardless of whether or not she is having weight problems. Good nutrition is essential for a happy rabbit.
2) What kind of litter do you use? If you are using only newspapers or hay, the urine may not be getting absorbed, and instead soaking into your rabbit's fur and skin. Try Yesterday's News, a highly absorbant cat and small animal litter.
3) Clean her litterbox more frequently, so the litter is fresh and dry.
4) Is she dribbling outside of her litterbox? This could explain how she is getting urine on her legs and fur. Dribbling could indicate a urinary tract infection, bladder stones or other medical ailments including uterine cancer.
5) Calcium buildup in the bladder might also cause her to dribble. Cutting out spinach, kale, collard greens or other calcium-rich foods might help; however, the buildup could be indicative of other medical problems.

Since this same behavior has previously occurred, at which time it indicated a significant medical problem, you should take it seriously and get her to the vet for a checkup. Perhaps there is another tiny infection that you are unable to see. She could also not be cleaning herself if she is in pain from an unrelated medical condition. Perpetually urine-soaked skin and fur could result in painful urine scalding on her lower belly and genital area. There could be something seriously wrong with your bunny, and waiting might worsen the problem. At least call your veterinarian and ask what he or she recommends.

Question from the Audience: Nail Trimming

A question from Sarah L. in Boston, MA:
Q: I've been trying to cut Winnie's nails for the past week but she just hates being picked up. When I do try to pick her up, she gets pretty angry. She really needs to get her nails trimmed. What should I do?

A: It's possible that Winnie had some negative experiences with being picked up improperly before you adopted her-- perhaps she was dropped, or hurt herself when she was allowed to flail around; or maybe it's just extra scary for her. An extreme aversion to getting picked up is definitely hard to break and the only thing you can do is continue holding her extra firmly and making sure her legs are secured.

When you are ready to cut her nails, sit down in a chair and tightly wrap Winnie in a towel, like a burrito, with just one leg sticking out. If you can get a partner to hold her while you do the cutting, even better. Or, if think your rabbit is mostly opposed to having her paws touched, as quite a few are, try placing her in your lap so that her bottom is resting in your lap and her hands and feet are sticking out (see below). With one hand securing her chest, you can use the other one to cut the nails without actually touching her paws.

Graysie demonstrating how to properly stick out one's paws.

In rabbits with clear nails, the quick is easily identifiable. This pink area contains blood vessels and is very sensitive; you never want to cut through it. Leave some room between the end of the quick and the cutting line.
In rabbits with black nails, this process is harder, so you'll have to be more careful and just cut the tips off. The squeeze and release technique is especially helpful with dark nails, but should be practiced always: Carefully place the scissor around the nail, a few millimeters away from the quick, and squeeze down and release before actually cutting. If you are too close to the quick, the rabbit will jerk away when you squeeze down. So squeeze, release, and cut. Don't try to rush through the process. Cutting the quick can result in pain and a lot of blood loss. If you do accidentally cut too close, use a product like Kwik Stop to stop the bleeding. If you find that the nail cutting process is really stressful on your rabbit out, try doing the front paws one day and the back feet a few days later.

Some online sources suggest putting your rabbit in a trance (on her back) to cut the nails. I would discourage this as it could be dangerous if your rabbit suddenly jerks awake, as she could break her spine or otherwise injure herself. If you are having a tough time with it, you can always get your veterinarian to do the job and they can even demonstrate the best way to do it.

The Importance of Hay

The most important part of a rabbit's diet and health is hay, which should compose the main part of your rabbit's meals. A plentiful, hay-centric diet includes nutritional, medical and psychological benefits.

Nutritional
Besides its delicious taste, hay is full of the necessary fiber, minerals, and vitamins your rabbit needs. It provides perfect nutrition—rabbits bodies are meant to live off entirely of hay and vegetables. The type of fiber in hay is critical in maintaining healthy digestion. Digestive problems, such as gastric stasis and diarrhea, are the most common ailments in house bunnies. The answer is often simple: more hay!

Medical
With healthy digestion come various medical benefits. Besides ensuring regularity, good motility allows hairballs to pass naturally and prevents bacteria from overgrowing in the cecum. Along with healthy digestion, the high fiber of hay prevents obesity, which, as we know, can cause all sorts of problems. Hay is necessary for dental health as well. Chewing on the tough stalks wears down the constantly growing teeth and prevents molar spurs and other tooth-related problems.

Psychological
Chewing is a necessary mental activity for rabbits and they love to graze on hay— it's so fun!

Hey! That's my hay!
(Dawson is currently available for adoption at the Boston MSPCA!)

Types
Not all hay is equal. Different types contain varying concentrations of fiber, protein and calcium. High fiber, and low protein, low calcium grass hays are the best. Healthy types include Timothy (most commonly available), orchard, brome, and oat. Avoid alfalfa and clover, as they contain too many calories, protein, and calcium, and not enough fiber. All hay should be green, not brown, and smell fresh, not dusty or moldy.

Where to buy
Purchasing hay in bulk from a nearby farm can be cheaper and likely fresher and higher in quality. For instance, Sweet Meadow Farm in Sherborn Massachusetts provides an assortment of high quality products you can order online. You can also find hay in smaller quantities at most pet stores and through various websites.

Health Special: Lead Poisoning

While it is widely know that pregnant women and children are at risk for lead poisoning, the danger faced by pets is less recognized. Of household pets, rabbits at an elevated risk due to their nibbling nature--from ingesting, in addition to inhaling, paint particles when they lick or chew on the walls.
Lead poisoning is a relevant danger in areas with older buildings, especially in New York and Massachusetts. Unfortunately, in these areas, virtually all apartments built before 1978 used lead-based paints. In greater Boston, where homes are often 100 or more years old, the incidence of lead poisoning in rabbits is alarmingly high; yet, there is little literature or verbal warning available to owners. Lead poisoning is all too often lethal in rabbits, with excruciating belly pain and possible neurological affects, but the good news is that it is preventable.

Some preventative measures:
-Talk to potential landlords before moving in to get an accurate history of the place and know your tenant rights.
-Look into the possibility of deleading your apartment. This can be quite pricey but in some instances the landlord is legally obligated to take care of it.
-Paint. The more layers there are over the lead-based paint, the less of a chance of inhalation or ingestion.
-When remodeling, follow specific guidelines to avoid exposing lead-laced dust particles. Look into the EPA's report on dos and don'ts.
-Put up adhesive contact paper around the baseboards and lower walls that the rabbit can access.
-Supervise your rabbit. A house with lead can never be 100% rabbit-proof. You should always be aware of where your rabbit is and what she is doing.

Signs and symptoms of lead poisoning:
Signs and symptoms of a lead poisoned rabbit include loss of appetite, decrease or cessation of fecal droppings, diarrhea, listlessness, depression, sudden change of litterbox habbits, and even some neurological changes. If you notice any of these symptoms, especially the diet and behavioral changes, get your rabbit to an experienced veterinarian immediately, where a simple blood test can determine the presence of lead.

Treament of lead poisoning:
Treatment for lead poisoning is chelation therapy. Your vet will also administer fluids and pain medication and may need to syringe feed your rabbit to overcome ileus (arrested stomach contractions).Sometimes right after syringe feeding, your rabbit will be willing to eat a few bites of fresh food. Offer her favorite foods, anything to get the stomach going again. Fresh, aromatic herbs such as cilantro, basil, parsley are good, along with dark leafy greens like romaine. (Though nothing conclusive has been proved, various sources claim that cilantro suppresses lead deposition. Since this herb is otherwise delicious and healthy for rabbits, it's an excellent treat at this time.) The point is to keep your rabbit alive while the chelation removes the lead from the body.
One thing to note is that the chelation therapy can lead to calcium build-up in the bladder, often creating a painful to excrete sludge-like matter. If your rabbit is dribbling, place down Puppy Pads over the carpet and also the cage floor so the rabbit does not have to jump in and out of the litter box.

The bottom line:
Lead poisoning can be serious and devastating, but it is treatable and most importantly, highly preventable if the proper precautions are observed. Spread the news about lead poisoning to all your rabbit-owning friends and acquaintances. You may be saving a life!


*This article is dedicated to Dr. Mickley and Dr. Orcutt at Angell Animal Medical Center in Boston, who treated my rabbit, Graysie, and to my former roommate, M. Offit, who was of life-saving assistance, during Graysie's battle with lead poisoning in November of 2006.

How to Pick Up a Rabbit

Rabbits deserve a high level of respect and this includes the right not to be restrained by humans for our pleasure, for instance, by unnecessarily picking them up. (Look back here to read why rabbits don't like being held despite their stuffed-animal appearance.) However, there are instances, like a vet visit or a nail trim, that require a rabbit to be picked up.

Knowing the proper way to pick up and hold your rabbit is essential to avoiding serious injury. When picking up a rabbit, you'll need to be confident and slightly forceful. Meek attempts allow the rabbit to flail and kick out its hind legs, which could cause a disastrous spinal fracture. Therefore you must always support the bottom of a rabbit while they are being picked up and held.



The best way to pick up a rabbit starts with a few nice pats on the head for reassurance.














Then, move your hands down to its shoulders and wrap your hands around its back and sides, pushing down softly but firmly.














Move your right hand under the chest and lift up slightly.












Place your left hand on the bottom of the rabbit near its tail and lift her up, holding her firmly and tightly.












Place the rabbit to your chest, supporting her legs. Hold her firmly and securely, disabling her ability to jump. A fall from a few feet can lead to a leg or back fracture.
If your rabbit has a tendency to flail when held, wrap her in a towel to restrain her completely. This sort of wrapping technique can be helpful for nail trims as well.


















She gets a treat for being such a good sport!

Question from the Audience: Urine Trouble and Pellet Trouble

A two-part question from Kelly S. in Boston, MA:

Q: Bunnicula is a large albino (New Zealand) spayed female rabbit. She is litter trained and I never keep her in her cage. She has free range of the bedroom. One of my questions is: although I mentioned that she is litter trained she's recently started peeing on my bed...not fun. We've been leaving a shower curtain over the bed now (when we're not in it) and she hasn't peed on the curtain yet...I'm just hoping that we can go back to our curtain-free bed soon. I'm not sure why she started this behavior, any ideas?

Interspecies Cuddling: Mouse, the cat, and Bunnicula, the bunnicula

A: With sudden changes in urinary behavior, you need to be suspect of a urinary tract infection. While these are hard to diagnose definitively without a sterile urine sample (note that its not impossible to get a urine sample from a rabbit...) the vet will usually prescribe a broad-spectrum antibiotic to see if the unwanted behavior goes away.

However, UTI-related changes usually result in dribbling in the cage or next to the litterbox; the fact that Bunnicula is jumping up on your bed to urinate leads me to believe this is more a territory-related issue. You mention that she has free range of the bedroom at all times. While you are retraining her to use only her litterbox, you will need to restrict her freedom by only letting her out when you are there to observe her. Additionally, you will need to prohibit her access from the bed. The idea behind this retraining is that you need to show her that you, not she, is not the owner of the bed. She will quickly get this once she is shooed off the bed a few times. When she understands that she's not the master of the bed, she won't feel the need to mark it as her territory. Once she starts behaving and staying off the bed, she can slowly have her freedom back, but it's possible she'll need some form of supervision permanently. Eventually, you can also experiment with letting her back up on the bed, but if the problem returns, you may just have to cut off bed access altogether.


Q: I'm also concerned about her weight...how much pellets should I be feeding her? She has unlimited timothy hay and veggies and I usually just make sure she always has pellets as well...but she's getting quite big! She loves her pellets though and I feel like I'm denying her when she runs out and I don't fill her bowl. She's quite a diva when she runs out of pellets, too, throwing her bowl around the cage, etc. I'm going to be such a push-over mom!

A: Originally, commercial pellets were created as feed for rabbits raised for slaughter. These rabbits didn't need to live long and healthy lives; they needed to plump up as fast as possible. Now you can understand why commercial pellets- while delicious- need to be restricted in the diet. It's like fast food for us.

Rabbit obesity is serious for several reasons. Bunnies have very sensitive stomachs and too many pellets (and consequently too little fiber) can cause all sorts of GI tract problems. Unrestricted access to pellets is linked to heart and dental problems; additionally, risk increases as the extra pounds go up when it comes to general anesthesia, if this ever became relevant for dental or surgical reasons.

Timothy hay should compose a large part of the rabbit's diet; rabbits can live off hay and vegetables healthily. But we've spoiled our rabbits with junk food and cutting it out completely seems harsh for us pushover Moms (or Dads)! But since you've noticed Bunnicula's unhealthy weight gain, she should probably go on a little bunny diet.

Follow this rule: Feed 1/8 cup food for every 4lbs. So, if your rabbit is 8 lbs, feed 1/8 cup in the morning and 1/8 cup at night, as to spread it out. Provide unlimited Timothy hay and an assortment of fresh veggies every morning. If you're unsure about anything, talk to your vet.

And if your rabbit is throwing temper tantrums, the best thing to do is ignore them (as with human kids!). If your rabbit has bowl-throwing temper tantrums, and a lot of them do, acquire these attachable bowls from PetSmart- they are a lifesaver!