The Easter Bunny Isn't Real

I know all of us bunnyparents look forward to the Easter holiday season and the sudden availability of all imaginable rabbit-shaped objects that comes along with it. But while we’re enjoying the bunny cards and figurines, we need to realize that Easter is also a terrible time for many rabbits. Year after year, unsuspecting parents buy real baby bunnies to put in their children’s Easter baskets alongside jelly beans and chocolate eggs. Weeks later, these rabbits are dumped at shelters or (even worse) released into the wild, when the family slowly realizes that rabbits are not perfectly behaved inanimate objects.

As you and I know, rabbits are not toys, and they’re certainly not appropriate gifts for young children. Help spread the word to people in your area by writing in to your local newspaper, putting up posters at obliging shops/malls/grocery stores/veterinary clinics, or simply talking to friends and family about the commitment involved in owning a rabbit. Shelter and rescue volunteers have already begun spreading the word all over the country and I urge you to reach out and educate your local town or city about choosing toy rabbits for Easter, and adopting real rabbits for life.



While Peanut (left) and Jimmy may look like toys, these 3 lb. dwarf rabbits are real-life bunny brothers, adopted for life by Caroline and Matt in Boston, MA.

To read more about a national Easter awareness initiative, check out the House Rabbit Society’s Make Mine Chocolate campaign.

And the Winner of the Adoption Story Contest is...

...Kelly S. in Boston, MA!



"As a small animal volunteer at the local shelter, I’m always fighting the urge to adopt. “Our apartment is too small,” “my boyfriend would never agree to adopt a rabbit,” and “how would our cats react?” were typical thoughts that reminded me I was not in a position to adopt a small animal. However, everything changed when Bunnicula, a large New Zealand rabbit, was brought to the shelter. The sign on the window of her cage stated that her previous owners no longer had time to care for her. I opened the door to her cage that first day and Bunnicula hopped right over to me, giving my hand a little nudge to let me know she wanted attention. I remember thinking that she was so calm and gentle, despite her large size. As the months went by, I saw many of the smaller rabbits get adopted, but Bunnicula remained at the shelter. Maybe people we intimidated by her size, or her white fur and bright pink eyes. But to me, she was perfect, and I knew it was time to give this wonderful bunny her forever home.


Bunnicula (or Boo as we like to call her) is the perfect addition to our family. I found out that our apartment could easily handle a rabbit, my boyfriend has a soft spot for bunnies, and that cats and rabbits can be best friends. We couldn’t imagine our family without our Boo!"

What a wonderful story! And it has a great moral too-- to never judge a book by it's cover. When choosing a pet for adoption, sometimes we can get really caught up in certain looks or specific breeds that we imagine for ourselves. Kelly and Boo remind us that personality and character are what really matter when picking a best friend. New Zealands generally have laid-back, outgoing personalities but can have trouble finding homes because of their large size or red eyes (personally, I think they look like beautiful rubies). In honor of Petfinder's "Adopt the Internet Day" and Boo's story, here are a handful of Petfinder profiles of available New Zealands in the midwest:

Whitley, in Brownsburg, IN, via EARPS Exotic Animal Rescue
Louie, in Louisville, KY, via Indiana HRS
Mo, in Louisville, KY, via Indiana HRS
Rosey, in Urbana, IL, via Champaign County Humane Society
Angel, in Madison, WI, via Wisconsin HRS
Floyd, in Plymouth, MI, via Midwest Rabbit Rescue and Rehome


Petfinder.com is so great because you can see pictures and read descriptions of animals' personalities, allowing you to find the perfect match for your family. Hoppy 15th birthday Petfinder and congrats to our contest winner!

Celebrate Petfinder's Birthday by Sending in Your Adoption Story!

March 15, 2011 will be Petfinder.com's 15th birthday! This revolutionary website has not only helped unite hundreds of thousands of homeless pets with their adoptive parents, it also tirelessly works to educate and entertain the public with their blog, message boards, library of articles on pet health, behavior, training, and much more. To celebrate this exciting milestone, Petfinder.com is staging a takeover of the Internet on March 15. This will entail a massive awareness explosion about adoption and shelter animals by numerous participating pet-centric blogs.

In honor of this momentous occasion, here at The Rabbit Advocate, I am hosting a rabbit adoption story contest. Send in a picture and story (up to 100 words) of how you and your bunny friend found each other and I will post a winner here on March 15th. Let's all get to writing!

There's no better time to spoil your bunny

Today is National Carrot Day, apparently. And with it being February, which has been declared "Adopt a Rescued Rabbit Month," and the year 2011, which is the Year of the Rabbit in Chinese astrology, I dare say the stars are aligned for indulging your rabbit(s) with an extra piece of carrot this evening.


This message brought to you by Daisy and rabbits around the world.

Maloccluded No More.. An Update on Charley

We met Charley back in November 2009, a young bunny at a shelter, days away from euthanasia due to his dental condition. His case taught me not only about rabbit malocclusion, but also about maintaining hope in a desperate situation, and more specifically, about the importance of giving every shelter animal a fighting chance, despite medical setbacks.

It occurred to me today that you all might want an update on his whereabouts and even see a few pictures of him in his new life.

Believe it or not, Charley was adopted by an amazing woman who already owned a toothless rabbit, Pedro, (and a fully-toothed one as well, Rico)-- both of whom had also been adopted from the House Rabbit Network. She sends me regular updates and pictures of him and his brothers. Suffice it to say, he is one lucky rabbit. I'll leave it to the pictures for the rest of the story.










Charley has a happy ending. I hope these pictures remind you of what each animal deserves and what each animal loses when they are denied a chance at life. Shelters are overcrowded and euthanasia for space purposes is still a relevant reality. Remember the direct link between adoption and overpopulation. Spay and neuter your pets. Talk to others about the importance of spaying and neutering. Volunteer. Fundraise. Donate. Educate. Inspire those around you. And perhaps most importantly, don't lose the meaning of "one by one." When in doubt, remember what that "one" means to Charley.

Are You Rabbit-Ready?

So you're thinking about getting a rabbit... Great! Rabbits make terrific pets, but they do require some specialized care and attention. As with any pet, you're going to want to do some preliminary research to figure out beforehand exactly what you're getting yourself into. Rabbits can live 8-10 years and are not low-maintenance pets, so it's especially important to know the specifics of their care before bringing one into your home.

Some facts about house rabbits:

1. Rabbits eat a highly varied diet. While they can eat a small amount of pellets daily, they must have unlimited access to a fresh grass hay and an assortment of fresh vegetables. Feeding a rabbit is definitely not as simple as throwing some dog or cat food in a bowl every morning.

2. Rabbits need to be seen by a rabbit-experienced vet, which is usually termed as an "exotics" vet. Exotics vets can charge more than regular dog or cat vets, so rabbit health bills can add up. While rabbits do not need vaccinations, they should be seen at least once a year by a rabbit-savvy vet.

3. Rabbits should be housed indoors, and this creates the need for rabbit-proofing. You will need to purchase a large dog cage or x-pen in which to house the rabbit while you are away or sleeping. While you're around, you can let the bunny out to explore--but certain dangers, such as poisonous plants or materials, electrical wires, and expensive furniture, must be moved, covered up, or protected.

4. It's strongly recommended that your rabbit be spayed or neutered. This makes a huge difference in litter-training and in curbing various behavioral and health issues.

5. As aforementioned, and now should be evident, rabbits are not low-maintenance pets. They require specialized care, daily attention, and a considerable amount of supervision. Rabbits also do not make good "starter" pets for children, as they are highly sensitive physically and mentally.

Before acquiring a rabbit, strongly consider all the factors. And if you do decide to get one, always adopt from a shelter or rescue--never buy from a petstore!

The Easter Bunny's Important Message

Every year, around June and July, animal shelters around the country are seemingly instantly flooded with rabbits that are no longer wanted. Countless well-meaning families buy cute baby bunnies as Easter presents for the children, only to realize a few months down the line what complex creatures these are, what complex care they require, and what a bad combination a skittish, unneutered rabbit and a rambunctious child can be. Read this article on why rabbits don't always do so well with children and vice versa and read here about the importance of spaying and neutering.

Buying a rabbit as an Easter present is a time-tested bad idea. Sure, baby bunnies are ridiculously adorable, but they also require a varied diet, not inexpensive vet care, a spay/neuter surgery, daily attention and playtime, and intricate rabbit-proofing (which in turn requires a watchful eye and sometimes infinite patience). Rabbits are excellent pets, but only in the right circumstances, which includes knowing full-well what you're getting into. And if you've done the research and still think you're ready to get a rabbit, don't ever buy from a pet store! Instead adopt from a shelter or a rescue and save a life!

Buy a toy rabbit for Easter-- adopt a real rabbit for life!

A Reflective Look at the Importance of Adoption and Spaying & Neutering

Here is a poem by House Rabbit Society Educator Amy Espie that is a poignant reminder of the importance of spaying and neutering our pets and adoption instead of purchasing animals from breeders, pet stores, etc.

Saying Goodbye Every Day by Amy Espie

Sunday. A friend and I take our dogs for a run
in the park. The late-afternoon sunlight is
pure gold, and a fresh breeze rustles the tall
grass. A family approaches us on the trail: a
man, woman, and two small boys. They are
accompanied by a large tan dog with the
distended nipples of motherhood and an adorable
pup who looks just like his mom. The pup
pesters his mom, taking five steps for every
one of hers. She patiently tolerates his
rambunctiousness.

It's a heartwarming scene that totally
depresses me.

What has happened to me? I love dogs. I love
puppies. And yet the sight of puppies makes me
sad. Every time I see or hear of a litter of
kittens or pups, I also see cages full of
homeless ones and the bins full of dead ones at
the shelter where I work.

Monday. It's 8 PM, time to go home. I walk past
the cages in the Stray Cat Room. A calico cat
and her two kittens sit quietly on the shelf in
their cage. The mother grooms one of the
kittens. A pink card attached to the cage tells
me it's time to say goodby to these three. I
feel the familiar mixture of sadness, anger,
and bitterness.

A huddled gray ball of fur in an adjoining cage
catches my eye. In the farthest corner of her
cage, a bedraggled cat hides her head under a
sheet of newspaper. I peer between the bars.
"Hi, Kitty," I say softly. "Are you totally
miserable? I don't blame you." I chatter on,
more for my own benefit than for hers. I put
some treats into her bowl and leave.

Tuesday. A small, frightened black rabbit is
rescued from a cellar by one of our Humane
Officers. That evening she gives birth to five
babies. Four days later, when her stray period
is up, the babies are injected with sodium
pentobarbital. A few seconds later, they are
dead. The mother is put up for adoption.

Gray Cat clings to her corner, still facing the
wall. I notice that she's eaten the treats I
left, which encourages me. I talk to her again.
"I know it's hard to believe, but actually
you're pretty lucky. Decent food, a clean
litterbox, people who care about you; and, with
a little luck, one special person to appreciate
and adore you forever." Gray Cat is not
impressed.

Wednesday. I talk to the people in my
dog-training class about spaying and neutering.
"Of the ten million dogs and cats who are
killed every year at animal shelters in the US,
nearly three million are purebreds," I explain.
"And the other seven million had a purebred in
their very recent past. Stand at our front
counter any day of the week and you will hear
the same stories again and again: 'We're
moving'; 'The landlord says no'; 'He barks and
the neighbors called the cops on us'; 'She
messes in the house.' An expensive dog with a
behavior problem is just as disposable as an
all-American mutt.

"Spend a day at the shelter and you'll also
hear the repertoire of reasons people give for
not having their animals spayed or neutered:
'We want the children to experience the miracle
of birth'; 'Neutering is unnatural'; 'It's
cruel'; "I wouldn't want anyone to do it to
me'; 'My cat is from champion stock'; 'We've
already got homes lined up for all the babies.'
But try to explain these reasons to a loving,
beautiful animal (or even an ill-tempered,
homely one) whose time is up, who is receiving
a death sentence when his only crime is that
some human let him be born instead of facing
the reality of the overpopulation disaster.
I've never heard a rationalization that didn't
fade into nothing in the face of even one
death."

On my way out, I stop at Gray Cat's cage again.
"Hi, Gray C. Still memorizing that bit of wall,
I see." A miracle! She turns and looks at me.
Her emerald eyes size me up. Maybe I'm being
too optimistic, but she seems a little less
frightened, her body a shade more relaxed.
"Listen," I tell her, "you've probably met some
pretty unevolved humans out there. We're not
all like that. Give us another chance, okay?"
She blinks dubiously. This is progress.

Thursday. The animal care technicians at the
shelter are the bravest people in the world. I
watch them scrub kennels and clean litterboxes.
I see them take a moment to play with a kitten
or hold a lonely pup. I hear them calm the
frightened ones with a gentle word. And every
now and then I force myself to witness what
they must face every day. That same dog who
they cared for, petted, and talked to must
finally be given the only thing we have left to
offer: a gentle, respectful death. What have we
come to when the best we can do is to kill them
kindly?

Jim puts a leash on the Labrador retriever. She
cowers in the back of the kennel, tail between
her legs. He tugs on the leash. She whimpers
and crouches down lower. He kneels beside her.
"It's okay, pup. Don't be scared." She stops
whimpering but won't move. He scoops her up in
his arms and carries her to the Euthanasia
Room. She's been at the shelter for two weeks.
She's so frightened that all she does is lie in
the corner. No one wants her. Now she will die.
Carol holds her while Jim shaves a small patch
of fur from her leg. She is quiet and
trembling. Jim continues to talk to her. He
gives her the injection. She slumps onto the
table. Carol carries her body to the Chill Room
and adds it to the pile.

In the Cat Room, Gray Cat is sitting in her
usual corner, but she's not facing the wall
today. The room is noisy. Adorable kittens fill
row upon row of cages. Friendly adult cats come
forward, asking for attention. I open her cage
to give her a treat. "It isn't fair," I tell
her. "You have every right to distrust people,
but if you don't act adoptable, how can you
compete with all these other cats?" I reach my
hand closer to her. I touch her. She lets me! I
thank her.

Friday. At home, a veterinary clinic calls me
to find out if I have room for another
unwanted. The owners brought a young mini-lop
in to be euthanized. Why? They're moving out of
state. They don't want to take the rabbit. They
haven't found any friend who will take him, and
they don't want "a bunch of strangers" coming
to their house to see the rabbit.

When I get to work, Gray C. is not in her cage.
I look everywhere. I try not to be too hopeful.
I tell myself, Don't pursue it. I ignore my own
good advice. I go to the Chill Room. She is
there, in one of the bins, her body curled up
against that of a terrier. I touch her, for the
second and last time. Her body is getting cold.
She is gone. I mourn her. But who will mourn
the calico kitten underneath her, and the
angora rabbit in the next bin? Who will mourn
all ten million of them, one by one?


Please remember this poem the next time you think of buying that cute little puppy/kitten/bunny at the pet store. Adopting means saving a life!

Question from the Audience: One or Two?

A question from Suzanna C. in Tampa, FL:
Q: I am thinking about adopting a pet bunny. I have been thinking and reading a lot about pet rabbits and now I'm fairly convinced that they would make ideal pets in my life right now. I just don't know if I should get one bunny or a bonded pair (of course neutered/spayed). We work full time so would be gone most of the day. My only concern with a bonded pair is that I don't know how affectionate they will be to us humans. What do you recommend?

A: It's great to hear that you're doing thorough research about rabbits before you adopt. Being completely aware of what to expect, knowing what you're getting into, and planning accordingly may be one of the most important steps in fostering a positive petcare situation.

As I frequently mention, rabbits are social animals. They are happiest in the company of others and since they are more occupied when in pairs, they're less likely to be destructive or get into trouble. Pairs also help groom each other, making for cleaner, healthier pets. And since you mentioned that you're gone for most of the day, I would especially recommend adopting a bonded pair. Pairs keep each other company while you're gone, and are therefore less bored and more happy!

Don't worry, it's not much extra care or effort to own two rather than one: a bonded pair can use the same cage, same litterbox, same food and water bowls, etc.

It's not uncommon to wonder whether or not a bonded bunny will like you the same way as a single bunny will. People often ask if their relationship with their single bunny will change once they get a second rabbit. However, because I've noticed that the relationship rabbits have with humans is separate from the one they have with each other, their status should really have no bearing on how they view you. Overall, the notion that the more attention you invest, the more attention you get back rings true regardless of how many rabbit friends are involved.

I recommend visiting some bonded pairs at a nearby rescue or shelter and seeing how you get along with them. Like all animals, rabbits have distinct personalities, unrelated to who they're already bonded with. All in all, bonded bunnies can be just as affectionate as single ones, and they'll sure appreciate having each other to snuggle with while you're gone during the day!

The Rabbit Advocate Info Day Was a Success!

Thank you to all those who came out for the 1st Annual Rabbit Advocate Info Day! We had a great time, met some awesome people, raised a little money for the Boston MSPCA, and got Tiny, Fluffy, and Thumper a little adoption exposure! Special thanks to Especially for Pets for their generosity, consideration, and dedication to educating the public about all types of animals.

Thumper and Fluffy being charming, as usual

Tiny makes a new friend

Fluffy getting some bunny love

Question from the Audience: The New Bunny

A question from Murat D. in Crangston, RI:

Q: We just bought a 7 month old, male, neutered lionhead rabbit yesterday. He is so scared from us because whenever I leave him to go out from the cage, he hits his legs on the floor strongly and never come near us. Can you tell me what to do in the first days of adopting a rabbit? Do we need to keep him in the cage all the time or stay near his cage? I really do not know what to do. Also when I want to put him back in the cage do I need to follow and catch him or wait for him to go by himself.

A: A new bunny is going to be terrified when it's first brought home and will probably need a few days to adjust. The thumping behavior is indicating that he feels scared and threatened. The best thing to do is leave him alone, and never force him out of his cage. After a few days, he should calm down a little. When he looks more relaxed, open the cage door and sit down next to his cage. You don't need to initiate any interaction with him; in fact, it's best if you just ignore him, and read a book or watch TV. Eventually, your rabbit will come out and explore the area, and ultimately approach you. When he does, let him sniff around and wait some time before petting his head and cheeks. The key is to let him approach you while you wait patiently.

Mental stimulation is crucial for keeping your bunny happy, so make sure your bunny is getting plenty of daily free time out of his cage. As for getting him back in his cage, don't chase him in. Try using a treat (a raisin, a piece of banana, apple, a stalk of cilantro, or a commercial rabbit treat like Yogurt Drops) to lure him back. Or try to work feedings around the time you need to get him back in his cage. If you're having trouble, you can try "herding" him in, but it's not a good idea to pick him up and physically put him in his cage. For further advice on interacting with your pet rabbit, read "Holding and Aggression" and "The Essentials: Approach," which outline how various human behaviors can be interpreted by your bunny.

Question from the Audience: Eye Health

A question from Michelle A. in Quincy, MA:
Q: Our rabbit is a Siamese, sable dwarf-chocolate brown 4 year old. Buddie is a great rabbit and eats a good balanced diet. Occasionally his right eye has a wet discharge and can be a bit goopy. I bath it w/clean warm water and it seems to clear up. Have you seen this before?

A: As with all health concerns, the wisest course of action is to see a rabbit-savvy vet to rule out any serious medical complications. While the discharge could be from allergies or a temporarily lodged particle, it could also indicate a more serious problem such as an infection, which would require antibiotics. A blocked tear duct or congenital defect could also be the cause, which might require preventative or therapeutic treatment such as a nasolacrimal duct flush, anti-inflammatory eye drops, or antibiotics. It's best to be safe and get Buddie checked out. In the meantime, experiment with new types of litter and try shaking out his hay. Certain types of litter (see HRS's Litter Comparisons chart for specifics) can not only irritate the liver and respiratory system, but the eyes, nose, and mouth.

Question from the Audience: Angora or not?

A follow up question from Tara D. in Chicago, IL:
Q: I am still waiting to adopt, and I literally can't wait. I'm hoping on getting two buns, a mini lop, and maybe an Angora. If I do decide on an Angora, how do I tend to its grooming needs? What it the right way to brush, cut, pull out the hair? I’ve seen YouTube videos of owners pulling out their tummy hair and I am a little confused if that’s safe or not, knowing that their skin is very tender. Another question is how much noise do buns make at night in their cages? Is it tolerable while you’re asleep?

A: Again, it's great to hear you are doing so much research before adopting—being informed and having appropriate expectations is the best start for developing trusting relationships with your new friends. Since you are planning on getting two rabbits, I would look for a pair that is already bonded. Because it is harder to find homes for them, there are usually many pairs available at animal shelters. Contact the Chicago House Rabbit Society or look up bunnies on petfinder to meet available pairs in your area.

Typically, I would discourage first-time rabbit owners from getting an Angora, as their care is notably more complex and involved than short-hair rabbits; Angoras require intensive brushing and grooming that is best reserved for experienced rabbit owners. I recommend sticking with a short-hair variety that requires only minimal biweekly brushing.

If it cannot be helped, and an Angora is who you end up falling for, you will need to talk with the adoption counselor or foster parent to discuss all elements of Angora grooming.

A few pointers:
1) Angoras must be brushed daily.

2) It’s a good idea to trim their fur with electric clippers to keep it short (a few inches) and manageable.

3) When molting, which occurs roughly every three months, the rabbit completely sheds its outer layer of fur. During this time, Angoras should be plucked, that is, the loose chunks of fur removed with your hands. If done properly, this should not be painful since this fur is no longer attached to the skin.

4) While plucking should not be painful, the process can be very stressful. Constantly monitor how your rabbit is handling the ordeal. If she stresses easily, only pluck a few minutes each day. Rabbits are prone to stress and stress-related medical problems, including death, so please take this very seriously.

5) I would not recommend taking your rabbit to a pet groomer, unless they have extensive experience working with rabbits.

6) Angora owners often give their bunnies fresh papaya or papaya supplements, as the enzymes are believed to break down the fur in the gut. There's no proof to these claims, but most rabbits love the taste of papaya! Overall it is most important that Angoras receive plentiful amounts of fiber-rich grass hay. They also have higher caloric needs and should receive more pellets than the non-wooly breeds.

All of this grooming and brushing serves an integral purpose—a neglected Angora coat will become matted, painful, dirty, and susceptible to infection. If minor mats do occur, cut them out carefully with safe scissors. Additionally, grooming is important so that the rabbit is ingesting the least amount of fur possible. Ingested fur can create a blockage in the digestive tract, which can lead to anorexia and consequently death. This sort of complication must be treated surgically. As with most animals, grooming is not purely aesthetic!

Regarding noise level, rabbits are active at dawn and dusk, so they are often awake when you may want to be sleeping. How much this affects you depends on how light of a sleeper you are and the personality of your rabbit. Some rabbits will chew on the cage bars, some will dig around in their litterbox. I’ve used ear plugs for the past four years because my rabbit Graysie snores like a 300 lb old man, though I believe this is relatively rare. If the option is available, I'd recommend keeping the cage in a living room or family room, and giving your rabbits plenty of daily exercise, mental stimulation, and interaction to ensure they are calmer in their cages.

Thumper and Letter need your help!

Thumper (black neutered male) and Letter (black and white spayed female) have been patiently waiting for their forever homes at the Boston MSPCA for almost a year. They are two of the absolute greatest rabbits--sociable, intelligent, calm, affectionate, and sweet, and they are in their 11th hour at the shelter. This means that if they don't find homes within the next few weeks, or even days, they will be put down. This would be a travesty as these adorable little guys are truly great; they have mostly been overlooked because they love sleeping in their cardboard boxes and therefore oftentimes not in view of visitors.

Both Thumper and Letter are fixed and expertly litterbox trained. They'd be ready to go home with anyone who could take them and provide the forever home they so desperately need and deserve.

If you or someone you know are possibly interested, please contact me (via therabbitadvocate@gmail.com) or the MSPCA Boston (617-522-5055) to inquire about them. Thank you!


***UPDATE***
12/7/08
Thumper and Letter were transfered to a foster home with the House Rabbit Connection this morning and are therefore safe from euthanasia. They are still looking for a loving home in which to live the rest of their long, happy lives, so please contact the HRC at 413-525-9222 or check their website to see about meeting this amazing pair. Thanks again!

Question from the Audience: Rabbits and Kids?

Question from Paige J. in San Jose, CA:
Q: I am seeking information regarding a bunny/rabbit for my 5 year old daughter. I don't know what types are the best for a younger child. We are looking for a rabbit that is social and likes to be cuddled/ held. Any information or resources would be greatly appreciated.

A: One of the great misconceptions about rabbits involves the belief that they are starter pets— animals used to teach young children about responsibility or as a transitional step before a dog or cat. In reality, these perceptions are just not true and ultimately the root cause for a large part of the shelter rabbit population. Rabbits require a great deal of responsibility, an even greater amount than cats (though probably less than dogs). A pet rabbit needs several hours of daily exercise outside of its cage, fresh vegetables every morning, thorough cage cleaning a few times a week, possibly substantial medical expenses, and a serious time commitment, as they live an average of 8-10 years. Perhaps most importantly, rabbits require a large amount of love and personal attention.

The combination of rabbits and children tends to make for unhappy relationships, as the two have exceedingly opposite wants and needs. As prey animals that terrify easily, rabbits require a special kind of gentle understanding and interaction. Children are loud and their sudden movements combine uncomfortably with the rabbit's lifestyle. And rabbits, active at dawn and dusk, sleep during the day when children are interested in playing; like with humans, repeated sleep disturbances can elicit cranky and even aggressive responses from a rabbit.

On the other hand, children want soft, cuddly animals that they can pick up, hold, squeeze, etc. While the world might perceive them as stuffed animal toys, rabbits are in fact not suitable for child's play. Young children often restrain their pet rabbit, thereby encouraging the rabbit's "child-as-predator" perspective, which can incite aggressive behavior such as biting, kicking and scratching. Conversely, rabbits often suffer spinal fractures or even stress-induced heart attacks when they are improperly handled or picked up. Since many adult rabbit owners struggle with correctly and safely picking up and holding rabbits, the process is even harder for young children.

In addition to physical injuries, neglected or mistreated rabbits live their lives in fear and will often revert to a wild state. Unfortunately, this resulting common scenario—unhappy child, unhappy parent, unhappy rabbit— usually ends with the rabbit being dropped off at the shelter or worse, released into the wild. Rabbits are also abandoned when the child becomes bored with their pet, can't handle the responsibilities, or the daily or medical care gets too expensive. This is especially unfortunate as shelter life and abandonment takes a serious toll on these ultra-sensitive animals.

While it is somewhat dangerous to use specific animals as "starter pets," I can see the value in getting a hamster before a dog, etc. Instead of a rabbit, though, a younger child would be better off with a guinea pig, rat, fish, or even a calm, outgoing cat.

All that being said, there may be children who are calm, responsible, attentive, and compassionate enough to own a rabbit, though I wouldn't recommend it to a child under eleven or twelve. Even then, a parent will have to be the primary caretaker, meaning they must themselves be willing to dedicate a few hours to the rabbit's daily care. It is the adult's responsibility to understand and then convey to their children the theories behind approaching and interacting with rabbits, especially making it clear that picking up the rabbit is only for adults. One last thing to consider is that countless rabbits are returned to shelters when it is realized that a family member is allergic to the animal; please make sure to test for this before adopting.

To sum up, I would advise waiting a few years, until your daughter is a little older, at which point a trip to your local animal shelter will allow you to meet a variety of rabbits. There, you will be able to decide which individual (or individuals) seems best suited to your specific character needs. I wouldn't categorize any particular breed of rabbit as friendlier than others; there is a behavioral range in all types, though there are certain other factors to consider, such as the fact that some breeds (for example Angoras) require extensive grooming. Other than that, I don't advise choosing a rabbit based on it's breed or look, but rather by its individual character and personality.

Question from the Audience: Questioning the Lessons of 4-H

A question from Tina D. in Sacramento, CA:
Q: I've had seven rabbits in my life and would have considered myself knowledgeable until my 8-year old nephew came home from school the other day with an application to 4-H club.

Logan wants to show Holland Lops or English Spots (he hasn't decided). Except for the rabbits I had as a kid, all of mine have been adopted from shelters so I know nothing about breeding rabbits for this program. The 4-H says that Logan cannot show a spayed rabbit (how stupid it that!), so I would like to know what to look out for when helping him pick showable rabbits.

A: Although this blog primarily deals with house rabbits kept for companionship, I think this question deserves some attention so that everyone can be aware of the nature and beliefs of this widespread organization. While many 4-H programs are great opportunities for children to learn intimately about new subjects, expand their creativity and develop a sense of responsibility, I have some qualms with the organization's approach to animals. I will here on out focus on the rabbit program, which I believe ultimately sends faulty messages to children.

4-H rabbits can be raised for exhibition or for the meat and fur pen. The meat and fur pen is an altogether different matter and I'm sure everyone can guess exactly how I feel about it. Rabbit exhibition, while less obviously so, is also troubling. As someone with vast personal experience with rabbits, I can tell you that being in a show is one of the least respectful things you can do to a rabbit. Rabbits are prey animals, and as such are very uncomfortable and scared in new environments, surrounded by many people, animals, loud noises, children, etc. The showing life is highly stressful, and a rabbit can easily have a heart attack and die simply from shock or fear; therefore the situation is quite a bit more serious for the rabbit than one might think. Furthermore, the rabbit exhibition encourages a view of animals as objects, instead of living, breathing, thinking, feeling, sensitive beings. Respecting a rabbit includes treating them like the sentient beings that they are and not subjecting them to unnecessary stress or restraint simply for our aesthetic pleasures.

My second misgiving relates to the organization's barring of spayed and neutered rabbits in exhibition. You are completely right when you classified this rule as "stupid." Altering rabbits is a huge part of getting a handle on the pet overpopulation problem, not to mention the positive health and behavioral impacts that come along with it. Additionally, 4-H discourages adoption and instead promotes rabbit breeders and pet stores, which profit from abusive animal breeding facilities. In an age where approximately four million healthy animals are euthanized each year, and hundreds of thousands, if not millions, of rabbits are waiting in shelters across the country, it is not only socially irresponsible of such an influential organization to support these principles, but it also reinforces these misguided lessons to our children. 4-H purports to teach children about responsibility, yet they really miss the big picture on this issue.

I encourage you to seize this critical opportunity to talk to your nephew about the true meaning of compassion, responsibility and pet ownership. Tell him that having a pet should be a mutually beneficial arrangement—he can have all the pleasure of owning a rabbit while simultaneously saving that rabbit's life; tell him that true responsibility means respecting our companion animals by allowing them to live happily and peacefully; tell him that social responsibility requires we look at the greater picture of the epidemic of animal overpopulation which forces overburdened shelters to euthanize regularly. Your nephew will gather a much more valuable lesson by learning about adoption, spaying and neutering, compassion and respect, instead of following the 4-H principles. You and your nephew could refuse to participate in the 4-H club, whereby acknowledging the flawed ideologies of the organization. Alternatively, you could practice your right to "civil disobedience" by adopting from a shelter and trying to show a fixed rabbit. This small protest may get other 4-H participants and community members thinking and raise awareness about these issues.

Be strong and good luck!

Question from the Audience: Bunny Boredom

A question from Eileen R. in East Meadow, NY:
Q: I am a first time rabbit owner. Over the past year and half that I've owned Cannoli, I have learned a lot about rabbits. I have a few problems. He chews the bars to his cage even when he's not enclosed in it! He has full range of my bedroom with the cage open for his litter, water, food and hay. At 6am he will get into his cage and start chewing the bars for no reason! He will have food, water and hay in his cage so there is no reason for him to be making such a ruckus.
I know I shouldn't leave him out while I'm at work, but he is just so hard to get back in the cage! He is also extremely smart. If he is in his cage eating or drinking and sees me walking towards it, its like someone put a fire under his butt and he runs out the cage and to the other end of the room thinking I'm going to lock him in there! Any advice would be appreciated thanks!

A: Rabbits, being the highly intelligent creatures that they are, get bored easily if they are understimulated. And it sounds like that is exactly what Cannoli is trying to tell you: he wants attention!
Here are a few ideas to spice things up and keep him entertained:
1) Cannoli is probably craving interaction with you. Spend some time on the ground with him. Pet him, talk to him, offer him a piece of an apple. Try teaching him a new trick! If you're just watching TV, forgo the couch and sit on the floor with Cannoli.
2) Invest in a new toy or two. Since he obviously likes to chew, chew toys are a great choice. There's also some great baby or cat toys that work for rabbits too.
3) Let Cannoli explore a different room in the house. You'd be surprised how exciting this is for them. New smells, new objects, new view! Just watch out for new trouble and rabbit-proof beforehand.
4) Set up an exercise pen outside and let him explore the garden. If you have a very calm rabbit, you can even use a harness and leash, provided you are careful. Always supervise your rabbit when he's outside-- birds, domestic cats or dogs, raccoons, etc. can attack at any moment.
5) Set up a destruction corner, as I like to call it, with a big basket stuffed with newspaper, hay, cardboard, toys, etc. and allow him to make a mess. You can set up a destruction area outside with potting soil where he can dig around. It doesn't get much funner than that!
6) Consider adopting a friend for Cannoli. Bonded bunnies entertain each other and don't feel as lonely or bored. Remember, busy bunnies are less likely to cause trouble.
7) Note that rabbits are most active during dawn and dusk, which explains Cannoli's high-level of activity at 6am!
8) If Cannoli hasn't been neutered, get that done. All those adolescent hormones make for a crazy, rebellious troublemaker. Rabbits grow much calmer and more well-behaved after the surgery.

Don't worry too much about Cannoli's feistiness. He's still young. As rabbits grow older, they tend to calm down and behave better. Right now he's still filled with energy and is overactive, which, just like children, oftentimes manifests itself in destructive behaviors.

Cannoli says, "But look how cute and innocent I look!"

In regards to Cannoli's cage aversion, try making his cage a positive, fun, safe place to be. Try to figure out why Cannoli would have developed such negative feelings toward his cage. Perhaps it's not big enough and he feels uncomfortable there? Maybe he finds the cage boring? Fill it with hay, toys, an ice cream mineral chew, dangling cat toys, fun-to-chew carpet squares, and hidden treats. Make sure the cage and litterbox are cleaned often; rabbits have sensitive noses and don't like being subjected to strong odors.

Cannoli is extremely smart for running out of the cage when he can tell you are planning to lock him up. Decondition this response by casually walking over to his cage several times a day and closing him in only one out of every ten times. Reduce the severity of getting caged in by sometimes letting him back out 5-10 minutes later. Avoid chasing Cannoli into his cage, as this will correlate cage time with punishment, or something he is forced to do. Instead, coax him in there with a treat, so that he views cage time is an option or a choice of his own free will.

Question from the Audience: Before Adopting

A few questions from potential adopter Tara D. in Chicago, IL:
Hi! I am soon planning to adopt a bunny but I have some questions.
Q: Where should I adopt a bunny? A pet store? A Breeder? A Shelter? I know it all depends on me, I am just nervous about getting a sick bunny or not getting enough information on where the bunny came from?
A: The best place to acquire a healthy rabbit will be from a shelter or a rescue organization. Pet stores have no guarantees and breeders are notorious for inbreeding-related genetic problems. Shelters do medical examinations of their incoming animals, so they can guarantee an animal is healthy, or otherwise provide full disclosure. And most importantly, adopting from a shelter also helps the colossal problem of pet overpopulation; by adopting, you are saving that animal's life. With millions of animals being euthanized in shelters yearly, I believe it is socially irresponsible to buy from a pet store. Pet stores encourage and support animal breeding facilities which feed into the rabbit overpopulation problem.
The Red Door Animal Shelter in Chicago specializes in bunnies and would be a great place for you to visit.

Q: How do you know what gender a bunny is? And how do you know if its neutered or not?
A: If you are adopting, the shelter or rescue organization will be able to tell you the gender of each rabbit. Rest assured that both sexes are equally friendly and relaxed--as long as they've been fixed.
The shelter can tell you if a rabbit has been altered by checking for a spay scar or testicles. Spay scars can be hard to locate, so some veterinarians will actually mark a doe that has been fixed.

Q:What kind of cage do I get for my bunny?

A: You should get a cage that is spacious and has a flat surface.
The cage should fit an appropriately-sized litterbox, bowls for food and water, an area to lay down, room to hop around and stretch out. Since it is advisable to put your pet in the cage while you are away and unable to supervise, you'll want to consider that she will undoubtedly be spending a sizeable amount of time in there. If the cage isn't big enough, your rabbit will feel cramped, which may lead to physical and mental discomfort. This can manifest itself in nonstop digging, cage chewing, and other behavioral problems.
For rabbits other than dwarfs, I would recommend a dog crate instead of the rabbit cages pet stores offer. There are numerous varieties of dog crates and some have pull out trays which can make for easy cleaning; additionally, many of them fold down to a compact and portable size.
Don't use a wire-bottomed cage as it can lead to a painful condition called sore hocks. If you do have a wire-bottomed cage, make sure to cover it with a flat surface, so that rabbit can escape to a comfortable area.

Graysie in her cage, fit for an 80 lb dog

Outfit the cage with all sorts of toys, a rug or towel (unless they are ingesting bits of it), a cardboard box for security, tons of hay, a food and water dish, a large litterbox, and various mental stimulations to entertain you're rabbit while your gone.

Question from the Audience: Bunny Friends

A question from Greg S. in Boston, MA:

Q: I currently have a male lionhead rabbit, and he lives alone, is an indoor rabbit and gets a lot of time out of his cage. However, there are still a few hours he is home alone and I was considering getting a bonding candidate for him. I was wondering whether there is any sort of sign that finding a mate would be good? He has been introduced to another rabbit before and seemed very interested and gentle, the other rabbit on the other hand was not interested and too dominant. Do you think this submissiveness would be with all rabbits or was that an isolated example?

A: If you ever observed a bonded pair of rabbits, you immediately understand that rabbits are social creatures who love and enjoy each others' company. And if you didn't think there was anything cuter than your bunny flopping down next to you, you have to see two bunnies cuddling up with each other. The cuteness increases exponentially!

Exponential Cuteness

But before you do adopt, you should first have your rabbit fixed. Neutering eliminates numerous medical problems, halts unwanted behaviors, and also reduces aggression and tension between rabbit companions. Unneutered males can be quite aggressive, though females can be just as violent, and the only sure thing you can do to ease a transition to two bunnies is spay and neuter. Also be aware that it takes roughly six weeks for the hormones to filter out of the body, so you'll have to wait a month or two after the surgery before the introduction. The best combination for a neutered male would be a spayed female, though it's not impossible for two neutered males to get along.

While dominance and submissiveness are relative qualities, they do tend to stay consistent in individuals and seem tied to personality. Since your rabbit reacted calmly and gently during a previous introduction, you can mostly expect he will behave similarly in the future. However, if the introduction with the "too-dominant" rabbit took place in a non-neutral territory, such as on the "too-dominant" bunny's home turf, the meeting was biased, and the circumstances would have affected their personalities. However, their reactions could still resonate in general terms.

The best way to determine how your bunny would react to others is to find out. Many shelters, such as the Boston MSPCA, allow potential adopters to bring in their current pets for a meet and greet. This is a good neutral ground for an introduction and a good way to see which rabbits your pet would get along well with.

While considering a second rabbit, don't forget that you will need a neutral space for them to have their first few interactions, a second cage, and a separate area for the second cage. It will reduce stress levels greatly if the rabbits can get used to each others' smells before the new one moves into your first bunny's territory.

All in all, since rabbits are social creatures, your bunny would most likely greatly enjoy having a pal to hang with. And with adopting another rabbit, you are saving an another life! What could be better than that?

Question from the Audience: Adoption

A question from Michelle O. in Brooklyn, NY:

Q: Dear Rabbit Advocate: I am considering getting a rabbit...I just don't know if I have room for it in my apartment. Plus my apartment has a cat and I don't know if that would be a good combo. How much time and care do rabbits need? I work long hours but I would love to have a friendly rabbit. Also, could you tell me where I should look for one?

A: These are all important questions that you should think about before deciding to adopt a rabbit. It's hard to think logically when you see that fluffy adorable little furball, so make the informed decision to adopt or not before heading down to your local shelter.

The actual space that rabbits require is not much, though your living quarters do have to accommodate a sizable cage. Different rabbit breeds require different cage sizes--a dwarf mini-lop will have different requirements than a Flemish Giant. (Speaking of Flemish Giants, Murph is an upstanding gentleman at the Boston MSPCA, looking for a forever home. With big size comes a big heart!) But if you have the space for it, a bigger cage gives your rabbit more freedom. You will also need a space for your rabbit to run around. Your bedroom can work just fine for this, or a living room/family room. For a skittish rabbit, bigger isn't always better. Shy rabbits will feel more comfortable in smaller spaces. Otherwise, a moderate-sized playing area should be fine, as long as your rabbit has room to check out different things and do her morning sprints!

Mr. Murphs, the Flemish Giant

One thing rabbits need more of than space is interaction. Rabbits are not hamsters or guinea pigs. They are more on par with cats and dogs in terms of the level of companionship they seek. But just because you work a 9-5 job, you can still have a pet rabbit. On a daily basis, you will need to let your bunny run around a larger territory for a few hours and spend at least half hour bonding. The more you interact with her, the more she will trust you, and the more rewarding your friendship will be. There's a direct correlation here!

Regarding interspecies rabbit introductions, they are not to be taken lightly. However, the House Rabbit Society reports a high level of success between cats and rabbits. Read this literature to learn all the details of a cat/rabbit introduction.

The best place to find an adoptable rabbit will be at your local animal shelter. You can use petfinder.com to locate a nearby animal shelter or rescue organization and even see the available pets online. Look back here to find out exactly how petfinder works or just go straight to their website!