My good friends Kelly and Eric adopted Bunnicula from the Boston MSPCA about two years ago. She is a prime example of the underestimated tenacious, comical and entertaining side of rabbits.
Hope you enjoy as much as I did, and hope you all have a hoppy New Years!
Showing posts with label behavior. Show all posts
Showing posts with label behavior. Show all posts
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Question from the Audience: Paw Flicking
A question from Elsie C. in Manchester, UK:
Q: My one year old house rabbit keeps flicking his front paws, one at a time. It is a kind of flick/shake. Any idea why? He is also quieter than normal instead of running around.
A: Rabbits usually flick their paws right before they plan to groom their faces or ears. Is he flicking his paws for a few seconds and then grooming himself? Is so, that is absolutely fine. If he is just flicking his paws repeatedly, then it would be worth it to have a closer look at his paws (is there something stuck to them? does he have a splinter or something of the sort? are they hurting? are they numb? do his nails need to be trimmed/getting caught in the carpet?). If you can't determine anything off about his paws, it might be a good idea to have a vet take a closer look at them.
I'd actually be more worried about him being "quieter than normal." Rabbits, being prey animals, really work to hide their symptoms. Once a rabbit is exhibiting unusual behaviors, you really want to pay close attention. Is he eating the same amount? Bathroom behaviors changed/droppings look the same? Acting depressed? Listless? If you said yes to any of these four questions, then don't wait to make an appointment with a rabbit-savvy veterinarian. These are surefire signs something is not right with your bunny, and when it's reached a stage with any of these symptoms, things can go very fast.
Q: My one year old house rabbit keeps flicking his front paws, one at a time. It is a kind of flick/shake. Any idea why? He is also quieter than normal instead of running around.
A: Rabbits usually flick their paws right before they plan to groom their faces or ears. Is he flicking his paws for a few seconds and then grooming himself? Is so, that is absolutely fine. If he is just flicking his paws repeatedly, then it would be worth it to have a closer look at his paws (is there something stuck to them? does he have a splinter or something of the sort? are they hurting? are they numb? do his nails need to be trimmed/getting caught in the carpet?). If you can't determine anything off about his paws, it might be a good idea to have a vet take a closer look at them.
I'd actually be more worried about him being "quieter than normal." Rabbits, being prey animals, really work to hide their symptoms. Once a rabbit is exhibiting unusual behaviors, you really want to pay close attention. Is he eating the same amount? Bathroom behaviors changed/droppings look the same? Acting depressed? Listless? If you said yes to any of these four questions, then don't wait to make an appointment with a rabbit-savvy veterinarian. These are surefire signs something is not right with your bunny, and when it's reached a stage with any of these symptoms, things can go very fast.
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Question from the Audience: One or Two?
A question from Suzanna C. in Tampa, FL:
Q: I am thinking about adopting a pet bunny. I have been thinking and reading a lot about pet rabbits and now I'm fairly convinced that they would make ideal pets in my life right now. I just don't know if I should get one bunny or a bonded pair (of course neutered/spayed). We work full time so would be gone most of the day. My only concern with a bonded pair is that I don't know how affectionate they will be to us humans. What do you recommend?
A: It's great to hear that you're doing thorough research about rabbits before you adopt. Being completely aware of what to expect, knowing what you're getting into, and planning accordingly may be one of the most important steps in fostering a positive petcare situation.
As I frequently mention, rabbits are social animals. They are happiest in the company of others and since they are more occupied when in pairs, they're less likely to be destructive or get into trouble. Pairs also help groom each other, making for cleaner, healthier pets. And since you mentioned that you're gone for most of the day, I would especially recommend adopting a bonded pair. Pairs keep each other company while you're gone, and are therefore less bored and more happy!
Don't worry, it's not much extra care or effort to own two rather than one: a bonded pair can use the same cage, same litterbox, same food and water bowls, etc.
It's not uncommon to wonder whether or not a bonded bunny will like you the same way as a single bunny will. People often ask if their relationship with their single bunny will change once they get a second rabbit. However, because I've noticed that the relationship rabbits have with humans is separate from the one they have with each other, their status should really have no bearing on how they view you. Overall, the notion that the more attention you invest, the more attention you get back rings true regardless of how many rabbit friends are involved.
I recommend visiting some bonded pairs at a nearby rescue or shelter and seeing how you get along with them. Like all animals, rabbits have distinct personalities, unrelated to who they're already bonded with. All in all, bonded bunnies can be just as affectionate as single ones, and they'll sure appreciate having each other to snuggle with while you're gone during the day!
Q: I am thinking about adopting a pet bunny. I have been thinking and reading a lot about pet rabbits and now I'm fairly convinced that they would make ideal pets in my life right now. I just don't know if I should get one bunny or a bonded pair (of course neutered/spayed). We work full time so would be gone most of the day. My only concern with a bonded pair is that I don't know how affectionate they will be to us humans. What do you recommend?
A: It's great to hear that you're doing thorough research about rabbits before you adopt. Being completely aware of what to expect, knowing what you're getting into, and planning accordingly may be one of the most important steps in fostering a positive petcare situation.
As I frequently mention, rabbits are social animals. They are happiest in the company of others and since they are more occupied when in pairs, they're less likely to be destructive or get into trouble. Pairs also help groom each other, making for cleaner, healthier pets. And since you mentioned that you're gone for most of the day, I would especially recommend adopting a bonded pair. Pairs keep each other company while you're gone, and are therefore less bored and more happy!
Don't worry, it's not much extra care or effort to own two rather than one: a bonded pair can use the same cage, same litterbox, same food and water bowls, etc.
It's not uncommon to wonder whether or not a bonded bunny will like you the same way as a single bunny will. People often ask if their relationship with their single bunny will change once they get a second rabbit. However, because I've noticed that the relationship rabbits have with humans is separate from the one they have with each other, their status should really have no bearing on how they view you. Overall, the notion that the more attention you invest, the more attention you get back rings true regardless of how many rabbit friends are involved.
I recommend visiting some bonded pairs at a nearby rescue or shelter and seeing how you get along with them. Like all animals, rabbits have distinct personalities, unrelated to who they're already bonded with. All in all, bonded bunnies can be just as affectionate as single ones, and they'll sure appreciate having each other to snuggle with while you're gone during the day!
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Question from the Audience: A mean bunny?
A question from Emily V. in Portland, OR.
Q: I have a lop eared bunny that I can only classify as "mean." I'm sure there is something that I could be doing to improve her behavior, but for the life of me I can't figure it out. We bought Bella from a farm where she had been stuck in a cage in a barn in some extreme heat for a couple weeks. We took her home and set her up in our guest bedroom. After she got mostly potty trained and met our two dogs (whom she adores!) we moved her out to the main living area where she got to spend most of the day running around the house, playing with the dogs. But she has never been nice to us humans.
I've read everything I can find on bunny behavior, I clean her cage when she leaves it on her own free will, she has an endless supply of food and timothy hay and she gets to run around all day. She gets carrot tops, radishes and every once in awhile, apple bits. I've sat on the floor and let her come to me. I stay still and ignore her like all the books say. And then she bites me for no reason! I shriek to tell her that hurts and she'll lunge at me again. Then, I'll get up to remove myself and she actually chases me around the house trying to bite me. I've worked with her for months to improve this behavior and nothing seems to work. I finally figured that she just wanted nothing to do with us humans and we should leave her alone.
I didn't want her to be stuck in her cage all day, but I couldn't let her run around the house biting me all day either. We set her up with a bunny run area in the garage where she has access to her cage, all her toys and a lot of running room, but she seems to only be grumpier. When I enter the pen area to clean it, she charges me and my little hand broom. I'm getting to the point where I'm pretty scared of her. Do you have any suggestions for what I can try? I don't want Bella to be unhappy, but I don't know what to do anymore!
A: I commend you for being so patient, understanding and accommodating with your difficult bunny, and for researching ways to improve the situation. No bunny is born mean, but rabbits do have varying personalities. These personalities are further shaped by experiences. It sounds like Bella may have had some negative human encounters early on, so we can't blame her for her behavior. It also sounds like some of her originally positive traits, such as friendliness, confidence and assertiveness, have been shaped by her environment into their negative counterparts-- aggressiveness and other characteristics interpreted by you as "mean." We need to reprogram, or re-mold her behavior to extract the friendly-bold version of her instead of the aggressive-bold variety. We also need to reinstate your presence as a positive association.
Positive connotations
In the garage, Bella will never develop a trust of humans, as she is too isolated, so move her back into the living room. Set up an exercise pen that encompasses her cage and a sizable play area; this way, you don't have to worry about her chasing you around. Initially, practice coming near her play area (I suggest sitting on the outside of it) and giving her treats, like apple bits or a stalk of cilantro, through the gate. When you give her greens in the morning, sit by the gate and hand them to her one at a time. Make her associate only good things with you; we're reprogramming her brain to view you as a positive presence. Gradually, you can enter the gated area. Wear protective gear, such as gloves, for your safety, and so you won't be jerking away and only further scaring her. (If she attacks your feet, wear shoes, thick pants, etc.)
Communication
Squealing at her bites doesn't seem to be working. Some bunnies, who instead of "getting" that nipping hurts you, become offended at your squeals. This in turn provokes further aggression. Likewise, ignoring her isn't achieving the desired effect either. While many bunny behaviorists do recommend ignoring a bunny during initial interactions, this is most helpful for shy rabbits who might be threatened by your movements. Because Bella seems very outgoing and friendly (she loves playing with the dogs), she may actually be biting in an attempt to get attention from you. (Note that nibbling is an inoffensive way rabbits communicate with each other.) So shower her with head pats, ear scratches and cheek rubs whenever you're near her, and you may be surprised to find that that's all she's wanted. If she seems agitated at first, start petting the top of her head, in a confident way, using your entire palm and pressing down just a slight bit--this action has a calming effect on rabbits.
Working with a problem bunny might seem like a lot of work, but these difficulties can be overcome. Gaining the trust of such a fragile creature can be trying, but that's what makes it so rewarding. Once Bella begins to trust you, I think you'll notice a real change in your interactions. Like with humans, communication is the key to a happy and healthy human-bunny relationship!
Q: I have a lop eared bunny that I can only classify as "mean." I'm sure there is something that I could be doing to improve her behavior, but for the life of me I can't figure it out. We bought Bella from a farm where she had been stuck in a cage in a barn in some extreme heat for a couple weeks. We took her home and set her up in our guest bedroom. After she got mostly potty trained and met our two dogs (whom she adores!) we moved her out to the main living area where she got to spend most of the day running around the house, playing with the dogs. But she has never been nice to us humans.
I've read everything I can find on bunny behavior, I clean her cage when she leaves it on her own free will, she has an endless supply of food and timothy hay and she gets to run around all day. She gets carrot tops, radishes and every once in awhile, apple bits. I've sat on the floor and let her come to me. I stay still and ignore her like all the books say. And then she bites me for no reason! I shriek to tell her that hurts and she'll lunge at me again. Then, I'll get up to remove myself and she actually chases me around the house trying to bite me. I've worked with her for months to improve this behavior and nothing seems to work. I finally figured that she just wanted nothing to do with us humans and we should leave her alone.
I didn't want her to be stuck in her cage all day, but I couldn't let her run around the house biting me all day either. We set her up with a bunny run area in the garage where she has access to her cage, all her toys and a lot of running room, but she seems to only be grumpier. When I enter the pen area to clean it, she charges me and my little hand broom. I'm getting to the point where I'm pretty scared of her. Do you have any suggestions for what I can try? I don't want Bella to be unhappy, but I don't know what to do anymore!
A: I commend you for being so patient, understanding and accommodating with your difficult bunny, and for researching ways to improve the situation. No bunny is born mean, but rabbits do have varying personalities. These personalities are further shaped by experiences. It sounds like Bella may have had some negative human encounters early on, so we can't blame her for her behavior. It also sounds like some of her originally positive traits, such as friendliness, confidence and assertiveness, have been shaped by her environment into their negative counterparts-- aggressiveness and other characteristics interpreted by you as "mean." We need to reprogram, or re-mold her behavior to extract the friendly-bold version of her instead of the aggressive-bold variety. We also need to reinstate your presence as a positive association.
Positive connotations
In the garage, Bella will never develop a trust of humans, as she is too isolated, so move her back into the living room. Set up an exercise pen that encompasses her cage and a sizable play area; this way, you don't have to worry about her chasing you around. Initially, practice coming near her play area (I suggest sitting on the outside of it) and giving her treats, like apple bits or a stalk of cilantro, through the gate. When you give her greens in the morning, sit by the gate and hand them to her one at a time. Make her associate only good things with you; we're reprogramming her brain to view you as a positive presence. Gradually, you can enter the gated area. Wear protective gear, such as gloves, for your safety, and so you won't be jerking away and only further scaring her. (If she attacks your feet, wear shoes, thick pants, etc.)
Communication
Squealing at her bites doesn't seem to be working. Some bunnies, who instead of "getting" that nipping hurts you, become offended at your squeals. This in turn provokes further aggression. Likewise, ignoring her isn't achieving the desired effect either. While many bunny behaviorists do recommend ignoring a bunny during initial interactions, this is most helpful for shy rabbits who might be threatened by your movements. Because Bella seems very outgoing and friendly (she loves playing with the dogs), she may actually be biting in an attempt to get attention from you. (Note that nibbling is an inoffensive way rabbits communicate with each other.) So shower her with head pats, ear scratches and cheek rubs whenever you're near her, and you may be surprised to find that that's all she's wanted. If she seems agitated at first, start petting the top of her head, in a confident way, using your entire palm and pressing down just a slight bit--this action has a calming effect on rabbits.
Working with a problem bunny might seem like a lot of work, but these difficulties can be overcome. Gaining the trust of such a fragile creature can be trying, but that's what makes it so rewarding. Once Bella begins to trust you, I think you'll notice a real change in your interactions. Like with humans, communication is the key to a happy and healthy human-bunny relationship!
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Question from the Audience: Bunny Slipper Love... The Importance of Spaying and Neutering
A question from Katie R. in Boston, MA:
Q: I have a male newfoundland dwarf bunny, Max. I was away this weekend and my brother took care of him. Anyway we got back to my apartment and an hour after returning home, he basically showed obviously signs he's "in heat" and has countless times tried to initiate sexual relations with my bunny slippers. Been following me around my apartment trying to get whatever he can. I've had him since July 08 and this is the first time I've seen him do this before. Any suggestions?
The Victims
A: Congratulations! Max is becoming a man. Or at least, he's reached sexual maturity. The cute, funny behaviors that he's displaying are only cute and funny the first few times. Then, they get annoying quickly, and you'll soon start noticing behaviors that are by nobody's definition cute nor funny. While some behaviors, like territorial marking, are a hassle to clean up, other behaviors have far graver consequences. Max can and should get fixed at this point. Since the surgery is safe for males after 5 months (and safe for females after 6 months), you can go ahead with the procedure. Not convinced? Let's overview the benefits of getting your house rabbit spayed or neutered:
Health
Fixed rabbits live much longer lives as they avoid an array of health complications, such as various reproductive cancers and injuries from raging-hormone-induced fights or aggressive sexual behaviors among one another. An unspayed female has a 70-80% chance of developing uterine cancer. Testicular cancer, while not as common as uterine cancer, is a possibility for intact males.
Behavior
Rabbits that have been fixed are calmer and more relaxed; they are also much less aggressive. (I have a scar on my forearm to prove that even the nicest bunny can take a vicious chunk out of your arm in the heat of the moment!) Spaying and neutering also reduces destructive behaviors, especially in females who may be digging and destroying your furniture in an attempt to prepare for (real or imagined) pregnancies. Many behaviors that accompany an intact bunny--humping, circling and chasing--start off being cute, but quickly turn annoying and overwhelming, and sometimes even aggressive and dangerous.
Litterbox Training
It's notably easier to litterbox train a rabbit who's been fixed. Additionally, unneutered males (and females) will oftentimes spray urine, sometimes to shocking distances, in an effort to mark their territory. Such territorial marking becomes an overwhelming hassle to clean up day after day.
Friends
Once your rabbit is fixed, she can have as many friends as she likes. Rabbits are social animals and the majority of them thoroughly enjoy the company of other rabbits. However, until the surgery, it's dangerous to put two rabbits together, for fear of fighting and the overwhelming risk of pregnancies.
Overpopulation
There's a good reason rabbits crop up in all sorts of saying about procreating--they reproduce with mind-blowing efficiency and in great quantities. Putting an unfixed male and female together will inevitably result in litter after litter of baby bunnies. With so many homeless rabbits waiting at shelters across the country, it just isn't right to introduce any more animals into the mix. Even if you somehow are able to find homes for the babies, those babies are taking the places of shelter rabbits who may be put down for lack of space.
The bottom line is that spayed and neutered rabbits simply make better pets. They are happier and more interested in bonding with their human companions once the undeniable and all-consuming urge to copulate is removed. With numerous behavioral problems and medical complications virtually eliminated, it makes sense to proceed with this safe and highly successful surgery. Get Max to a rabbit-experienced vet as soon as possible. With the irrefutable benefits, there's no way around it--it's the single best thing you can do for your pet, other rabbits, and you!
Q: I have a male newfoundland dwarf bunny, Max. I was away this weekend and my brother took care of him. Anyway we got back to my apartment and an hour after returning home, he basically showed obviously signs he's "in heat" and has countless times tried to initiate sexual relations with my bunny slippers. Been following me around my apartment trying to get whatever he can. I've had him since July 08 and this is the first time I've seen him do this before. Any suggestions?
The VictimsA: Congratulations! Max is becoming a man. Or at least, he's reached sexual maturity. The cute, funny behaviors that he's displaying are only cute and funny the first few times. Then, they get annoying quickly, and you'll soon start noticing behaviors that are by nobody's definition cute nor funny. While some behaviors, like territorial marking, are a hassle to clean up, other behaviors have far graver consequences. Max can and should get fixed at this point. Since the surgery is safe for males after 5 months (and safe for females after 6 months), you can go ahead with the procedure. Not convinced? Let's overview the benefits of getting your house rabbit spayed or neutered:
Health
Fixed rabbits live much longer lives as they avoid an array of health complications, such as various reproductive cancers and injuries from raging-hormone-induced fights or aggressive sexual behaviors among one another. An unspayed female has a 70-80% chance of developing uterine cancer. Testicular cancer, while not as common as uterine cancer, is a possibility for intact males.
Behavior
Rabbits that have been fixed are calmer and more relaxed; they are also much less aggressive. (I have a scar on my forearm to prove that even the nicest bunny can take a vicious chunk out of your arm in the heat of the moment!) Spaying and neutering also reduces destructive behaviors, especially in females who may be digging and destroying your furniture in an attempt to prepare for (real or imagined) pregnancies. Many behaviors that accompany an intact bunny--humping, circling and chasing--start off being cute, but quickly turn annoying and overwhelming, and sometimes even aggressive and dangerous.
Litterbox Training
It's notably easier to litterbox train a rabbit who's been fixed. Additionally, unneutered males (and females) will oftentimes spray urine, sometimes to shocking distances, in an effort to mark their territory. Such territorial marking becomes an overwhelming hassle to clean up day after day.
Friends
Once your rabbit is fixed, she can have as many friends as she likes. Rabbits are social animals and the majority of them thoroughly enjoy the company of other rabbits. However, until the surgery, it's dangerous to put two rabbits together, for fear of fighting and the overwhelming risk of pregnancies.
Overpopulation
There's a good reason rabbits crop up in all sorts of saying about procreating--they reproduce with mind-blowing efficiency and in great quantities. Putting an unfixed male and female together will inevitably result in litter after litter of baby bunnies. With so many homeless rabbits waiting at shelters across the country, it just isn't right to introduce any more animals into the mix. Even if you somehow are able to find homes for the babies, those babies are taking the places of shelter rabbits who may be put down for lack of space.
The bottom line is that spayed and neutered rabbits simply make better pets. They are happier and more interested in bonding with their human companions once the undeniable and all-consuming urge to copulate is removed. With numerous behavioral problems and medical complications virtually eliminated, it makes sense to proceed with this safe and highly successful surgery. Get Max to a rabbit-experienced vet as soon as possible. With the irrefutable benefits, there's no way around it--it's the single best thing you can do for your pet, other rabbits, and you!
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