Rabbit Housing Series: The Litterbox

The third and final installment in the housing series focuses on the most important feature in the rabbit pen: the litterbox.

Many rabbits spend a lot of time in their litterboxes, and use it not solely for elimination and hay consumption, but also view it as a comfortable place to take a nap, groom, or just hang out. 

Accordingly, the box itself  needs to be spacious enough to allow the rabbit to move around comfortably. For a medium-sized single rabbit, a cat litterbox, such as this one from Target, works perfectly. For a larger breed, or for a bonded pair or trio, invest instead in a large plastic container. They are large, cheap, and easy to clean. With multiple rabbits, I recommend having multiple litterboxes to increase chance of good habits. Multiple litterboxes are a good idea also if the rabbit-proofed area is large or encompasses several rooms. 

This plastic container is spacious enough for two.

Litterboxes should be cleaned frequently, about every three days, especially to avoid the buildup of ammonia that can cause respiratory issues when it becomes too concentrated.

White vinegar is a safe and effective cleaner.  

Setting up the Litterbox

I recommend lining the box with newspaper before adding a few inches of rabbit-safe litter. Carefresh and Yesterday’s News are great options for odor absorption and wood stove pellets are a great economical option. Some people like aspen shavings, but be sure to avoid pine or cedar chips as those have been linked to health issues. Additionally, avoid any clumping or dusty cat litters. 

Place a large amount of quality grass hay on one side of the litterbox and make sure the hay is replenished frequently. There should always be a generous portion of hay in the box, as it is integral for a rabbit's well-being. Rabbits tend to eat the hay from one side of the box and use the other side of the box for elimination purposes.

Common Litterbox Problems

Tipping over the box

If your rabbit is repeatedly tipping over his or her litterbox, switch to a larger and more substantial litterbox. You can also try switching to a heavier type of litter (wood stove pellets, for instance, are heavier than Carefresh, etc). For the really persistent rabbits, you can secure the box to the side of the cage/pen with some heavy duty zip ties. This problem, like most others, usually stems from boredom, so addressing the root of the problem is also integral.   

Digging in box

Nothing is more infuriating than coming home to an empty litterbox with the contents spread all around the floor next to it. A homemade or purchased grate can stop this problem easily.

Not using box

A rabbit who suddenly refuses to use a litterbox could be suffering from a medical issue, such as a urinary tract infection or stones, or even a neurologic or orthopedic problem preventing physical entry into the box. A young rabbit messing up previously perfect litterbox habits usually results from an increase in hormones as he or she enters puberty. All these warrant a visit to the veterinarian.

Lack of proper litterbox habits could be behavioral as well. Is the litterbox too dirty to be appealing? Does the rabbit prefer another type of litter? Is the box large enough to be accommodating? Some rabbits may need to be re-trained to use the litterbox.

Urinating next to box

Your rabbit is using the litterbox and yet you find urine next to or under the box. This is an indication  she may be urinating over the edge of the box. Watch closely the next time she urinates and you’ll notice her raising her hind end ever so slightly prior to urination. If the edges of the box are too low, your rabbit could accidently be missing the box. Try a box with a higher edge, one that is larger, or even a covered cat litterbox.

Are there any other problems I haven’t covered? Leave them in the comments section and I will address them as I can!

Question from the Audience: Blood in the Urine?

A question from Trish M. in Marion, OH:
Q: I am noticing that when I change my rabbits' litterboxes that there is a brownish tinge to it, almost looks like old blood, but I am wondering if this is due to the urine and pebbles mixing or if it could be something else? Does this sound familiar? I put down newspaper and pine chips, but then it has a grate over that so they don't get to the chips or anything. Any suggestions?

A: While it can be very troubling to see little puddles of dark reddish urine in your rabbits' litterbox, this is not necessarily anything worry about. Certain vegetable pigments can turn a rabbit's urine to a bright red, dark brown or even a dark yellow color. However, if the change in urine color is accompanied by a change in litterbox habits, a change in behavior (acting sluggish or depressed), or a change in dietary habits, then a vet visit is definitely warranted. A veterinarian can test for the presence of blood in the urine and check for kidney disease, reproductive cancers, etc. 

On a sidenote, you do mention that you use pine chips as the litter. Despite the prevalence and availability of these litters in pet stores, pine chips and other wood shavings have been shown to cause liver damage in rabbits. Switch to a pelleted paper litter, such as Yesterday's News and add a generous layer of timothy hay on top. (Yesterday's News, while being perfectly safe, also has unbeatable absorbency, odor control, and is environmentally friendly as it's made from recycled newspapers). The good news is that any sustained liver damage from the shavings can clear up once the litter is switched. And with using a safe litter, you'll no longer need a grate to cover the ever-so-fun-to-dig-in litterbox. 

Question from the Audience: Change in Cleaning Habbits

A question from Alison C. in Chicago, IL:
Q: My English Lop is 4 years old and recently she has not been cleaning herself well. It is urine that she is not cleaning and it is on her fur, around her back legs. She did this last year and I brought her to the vet, and over $100 later I find out she had a tiny infection from a nail that probably got stuck on her cage or something and then became infected. So when I noticed this again (her not being very clean and the hair around her legs are dirty) I examined her and found nothing. Is there anything else you think could be going on? She is eating and drinking normally and also her bathroom habits are the same. I am just seeing if you may have any ideas. Thanks!

A: While it's hard to diagnose a problem from a distance, I have a few ideas for you to consider:
1) Overweight rabbits often have trouble cleaning themselves. Does she look very round? Does she get unlimited pellets? If so, it might be time to limit her daily pellet allowance and instead provide her with extra fresh veggies, and of course, unlimited hay. In fact, this is a good idea regardless of whether or not she is having weight problems. Good nutrition is essential for a happy rabbit.
2) What kind of litter do you use? If you are using only newspapers or hay, the urine may not be getting absorbed, and instead soaking into your rabbit's fur and skin. Try Yesterday's News, a highly absorbant cat and small animal litter.
3) Clean her litterbox more frequently, so the litter is fresh and dry.
4) Is she dribbling outside of her litterbox? This could explain how she is getting urine on her legs and fur. Dribbling could indicate a urinary tract infection, bladder stones or other medical ailments including uterine cancer.
5) Calcium buildup in the bladder might also cause her to dribble. Cutting out spinach, kale, collard greens or other calcium-rich foods might help; however, the buildup could be indicative of other medical problems.

Since this same behavior has previously occurred, at which time it indicated a significant medical problem, you should take it seriously and get her to the vet for a checkup. Perhaps there is another tiny infection that you are unable to see. She could also not be cleaning herself if she is in pain from an unrelated medical condition. Perpetually urine-soaked skin and fur could result in painful urine scalding on her lower belly and genital area. There could be something seriously wrong with your bunny, and waiting might worsen the problem. At least call your veterinarian and ask what he or she recommends.

How to Litterbox Train Your Rabbit

One of the little known facts by outsiders about rabbits is that they can easily be litterbox-trained. Rabbits are naturally clean pets and most of them will actually teach themselves to use the litterbox. In fact, your bunny will often choose a spot in her cage that she considers her bathroom corner, so once you place a litterbox in that spot, the process of litter-training is complete. For many rabbits, it's as easy as that. For others, though, it might take a little extra time and effort.

For the "extra time and effort" bunnies, here are a few tips:
1) If your rabbit is soiling in several places, pick out the consistent spots and place litterboxes down there. If it means having two litterboxes inside the cage, that's fine. As they start improving, slowly wean them down to just one.

2) While she is still learning to use the box, you'll want to closely supervise and limit her play area. If your rabbit gets overwhelmed at a sudden abundance of space, she could forget about her box. Therefore, start small and increase gradually. Once she is box-trained, she will know to run in her cage to use the bathroom.

3) Throw some hay in the litterbox. This will encourage your rabbit's natural association between bathroom behavior and social chewing. Additionally, the more time they spend in their litterbox, the greater their likelihood of forming good litterbox habbits.

4) Consider that older rabbits are easier to train than young ones. So if she's young, don't worry; be patient. If she's older, be extra patient and don't give up! Experiment with the aforementioned tips. Try switching up the type of litter or get a different kind of litterbox. Put treats or toys in the box; and make sure to never bother her while she's in there.

5) Clean the litterbox about two or three times a week. This is just enough to make it clean and inviting, but not so sanitary that her ownership of the box is questioned daily. When cleaning the box, I like to splash some regular white vinegar on the bottom and let it soak with water for ten minutes. Vinegar removes the calcium buildup from the urine, without introducing any harsh chemicals.

6) If she's accidentally leaving some droppings in her cage, don't worry. A few territorial markings are completely natural and acceptable, and even the most well-trained rabbit will partake in this activity.

7) Lastly, the most important thing you can do to litterbox train your rabbit is neuter and spay. Males and females practice territorial spraying and droppings, so until your rabbit is fixed, don't be surprised if she has spotty litterbox habits.

Baloo napping in his litterbox

The litter:
The best litter I've found is Yesterday's News cat litter. It's made from recycled newspapers, so it's even good for the environment. Additionally, it's absorbent, odor-reducing, affordable and non-allergenic. Carefresh is a similar product. You could also use regular old newspapers or hay but these aren't as odor absorbing. Avoid clay cat litter as it is a possible respiratory irritant, and the clumping kind should specifically be avoided because it is dangerous when ingested. Cedar and pine chips, though sold in most pet stores, can cause liver problems.

The litterbox:
Use a box that the rabbit can comfortably sit and turn around in. Make sure the sides are tall enough so the rabbit doesn't accidentally dribble over the edge, but not so high that she has trouble getting in. You can buy a litter pan from a pet store, but a large plastic storage container works just as well.

Quick Tip: Litter Box Trouble

Digging litter out of the litter box is a hugely annoying problem. My rabbit, Graysie, did this for most of her young life, and I tried all sorts of unsuccessful methods (huge covered litter boxes, different types of litter, clapping, yelling, etc. etc.). Finally, this surprisingly simple solution ended my frustrations: I purchased metal mesh/chicken wire and metal snips from a local hardware store, cut the chicken wire in the shape of the litter box, and after pouring in the fresh litter, I placed the tight-fitting metal wiring on top. The urine and droppings fell right through the wire and Graysie wasn't able to dig the litter out. Success!
Feel free to leave comments about how you solved one of your stubborn bunny's naughty habits!

Question from the Audience: Allergies

Our first blog-emailed question comes from Angy K. in Baltimore, MD:

Q: Hello Rabbit Advocate! I recently adopted a bunny named Toby. Overall he seems to be doing well in my house, he hops around, stays out of trouble and seems to be adjusting well. However, I noticed that he seems to now be sneezing a lot. At least, thats what it sounds like to me. Is it possible he has an allergy?

A: If your rabbit is experiencing frequent sneezing, you should make an appointment with your veterinarian to check him for an upper respiratory infection (colloquially "snuffles") or pneumonia. If these tests come back negative, your rabbit could have allergies.

Believe it or not, rabbit allergies are actually quite common. And I'm not referring here to the kind humans develop to rabbit fur or pet dander. Rabbits get allergies too! Some rabbits are much more sensitive to dust particles in the air than others and will develop recurrent sneezing, runny nose, and teary eyes.

Here are some things you can do to alleviate your rabbit's symptoms:
1) Experiment with a different type of litter. Dusty clay cat litter is a common irritant and the clumping kind should be avoided at all costs because it is dangerous when ingested. Cedar chips can also cause allergic reactions in your rabbit. The best litter I've found is Yesterday's News cat litter. Very absorbent, odor-reducing, affordable and non allergenic. It's also good for the environment, as it is made from recycled newspapers.
2) The hay that you're feeding to your rabbit is covered in dust and could be the culprit. Try buying a higher quality hay, as these are fresher and less dusty. Another thing you can do is shake the dust out of the hay before giving it to your rabbit.
3) If your rabbit's cage is right under a window and it's summer or spring, your rabbit could be reacting to allergens in the air, just like we often do. Moving your rabbit away from the window or door is one preventative measure. Talk to your vet also about the possibility of administering a low-dose antihistamine.4) It's also possible your bunny is allergic to a new toy/treat/or food. Eliminate any new objects or edible items you've recently introduced and see if the sneezing stops.

Rabbit allergies are quite annoying for your pet and can even be worrying to watch, but they're not causing permanent damage. Adjusting certain environmental factors is your best bet in alleviating symptoms. Good luck!