So you're thinking about getting a rabbit... Great! Rabbits make terrific pets, but they do require some specialized care and attention. As with any pet, you're going to want to do some preliminary research to figure out beforehand exactly what you're getting yourself into. Rabbits can live 8-10 years and are not low-maintenance pets, so it's especially important to know the specifics of their care before bringing one into your home.
Some facts about house rabbits:
1. Rabbits eat a highly varied diet. While they can eat a small amount of pellets daily, they must have unlimited access to a fresh grass hay and an assortment of fresh vegetables. Feeding a rabbit is definitely not as simple as throwing some dog or cat food in a bowl every morning.
2. Rabbits need to be seen by a rabbit-experienced vet, which is usually termed as an "exotics" vet. Exotics vets can charge more than regular dog or cat vets, so rabbit health bills can add up. While rabbits do not need vaccinations, they should be seen at least once a year by a rabbit-savvy vet.
3. Rabbits should be housed indoors, and this creates the need for rabbit-proofing. You will need to purchase a large dog cage or x-pen in which to house the rabbit while you are away or sleeping. While you're around, you can let the bunny out to explore--but certain dangers, such as poisonous plants or materials, electrical wires, and expensive furniture, must be moved, covered up, or protected.
4. It's strongly recommended that your rabbit be spayed or neutered. This makes a huge difference in litter-training and in curbing various behavioral and health issues.
5. As aforementioned, and now should be evident, rabbits are not low-maintenance pets. They require specialized care, daily attention, and a considerable amount of supervision. Rabbits also do not make good "starter" pets for children, as they are highly sensitive physically and mentally.
Before acquiring a rabbit, strongly consider all the factors. And if you do decide to get one, always adopt from a shelter or rescue--never buy from a petstore!
Showing posts with label rabbit proofing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rabbit proofing. Show all posts
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Thursday, September 25, 2008
The Essentials: Rabbit Proofing
Rabbits are not meant to be kept pent up in a cage their entire lives. They need to be able to run around and explore a large area in order to develop intellectually, physically, emotionally, and socially. While keeping your rabbit in dog cage or a large rabbit cage is a good idea when you're gone at work or sleeping, rabbits need to be let out to roam and explore for a few hours daily.
As we know, rabbits are curious creatures. It's almost as if they have a sixth sense which they use to seek out trouble. If there's something they shouldn't get into, they're going to find it.
However, there are some easy things you can do that can not only save you money, but more importantly, your bunny's life.
Electrical wires, telephone cords, computer cables: Rabbits love biting into a good electrical wire. It's got the perfect texture; maybe it's a similar enjoyment as we have with chewing gum. Either way, if wires are exposed, there's a good chance they will get gnawed through. Electrical wires are doubly dangerous because depending on the amount of voltage contained inside, your rabbit could be shocked to death.
The easiest thing to do is move your furniture in a way so that the wires are blocked. Other options include covering wires in a cable sleeve, or cord protector, or taping it down in the corner with duck tape (not the most aesthetically pleasing option but it works).
Carpet, baseboards, and wood furniture: I've found the best way to control the unpleasant situations of teeth-marked furniture or pulled up carpet is by patient and attentive training. A loud clap or sudden "no!" can startle a rabbit away from a tasty wooden table leg and if done so consistently, the rabbit can be conditioned to not nibble on these valuables. Providing alternatives here is the key. (See below for a list.) And since one of the appeals of carpet, baseboards, and furniture (besides the interesting textures!) is that they are stationary (unlike most rabbit toys), consider wiring a cardboard box to the side of the cage or wedging the wooden chew toy between the cage wires. For some reason, it's a lot more fun to chew things that don't move!
Poisonous plants: The Sacramento House Rabbit Society has a extensive list of plants that can harm your rabbit. However, keeping any large plant on the ground is pretty much asking for trouble. Even if it's not poisonous, chances are your rabbit will eat the leaves, dig up the soil and cause an all-around mess. Best to just move your plants out of these rooms or keep them off the ground.
Miscellaneous objects:
For specific objects that you don't want your rabbit to get to, you might have to get creative. For instance, if your closet doesn't have a door, use hanging shoe shelves to keep shoes out of reach. Fold your bed covers in half so they don't hang over the edge and provide easy chewing access.
One of the best things you can do is provide lots of safe distractions such as cardboard boxes and tubes, balls, newspaper (only if your rabbit doesn't ingest it), timothy hay, wood toys and mineral chews.
Boredom is usually to blame for heightened troublemaking, so giving your pet lots of supervised roaming time, entertainment and interaction diminishes their troublemaking capacity.
As we know, rabbits are curious creatures. It's almost as if they have a sixth sense which they use to seek out trouble. If there's something they shouldn't get into, they're going to find it.
However, there are some easy things you can do that can not only save you money, but more importantly, your bunny's life.
Electrical wires, telephone cords, computer cables: Rabbits love biting into a good electrical wire. It's got the perfect texture; maybe it's a similar enjoyment as we have with chewing gum. Either way, if wires are exposed, there's a good chance they will get gnawed through. Electrical wires are doubly dangerous because depending on the amount of voltage contained inside, your rabbit could be shocked to death.
The easiest thing to do is move your furniture in a way so that the wires are blocked. Other options include covering wires in a cable sleeve, or cord protector, or taping it down in the corner with duck tape (not the most aesthetically pleasing option but it works).
Carpet, baseboards, and wood furniture: I've found the best way to control the unpleasant situations of teeth-marked furniture or pulled up carpet is by patient and attentive training. A loud clap or sudden "no!" can startle a rabbit away from a tasty wooden table leg and if done so consistently, the rabbit can be conditioned to not nibble on these valuables. Providing alternatives here is the key. (See below for a list.) And since one of the appeals of carpet, baseboards, and furniture (besides the interesting textures!) is that they are stationary (unlike most rabbit toys), consider wiring a cardboard box to the side of the cage or wedging the wooden chew toy between the cage wires. For some reason, it's a lot more fun to chew things that don't move!
Poisonous plants: The Sacramento House Rabbit Society has a extensive list of plants that can harm your rabbit. However, keeping any large plant on the ground is pretty much asking for trouble. Even if it's not poisonous, chances are your rabbit will eat the leaves, dig up the soil and cause an all-around mess. Best to just move your plants out of these rooms or keep them off the ground.
Miscellaneous objects:
For specific objects that you don't want your rabbit to get to, you might have to get creative. For instance, if your closet doesn't have a door, use hanging shoe shelves to keep shoes out of reach. Fold your bed covers in half so they don't hang over the edge and provide easy chewing access.
One of the best things you can do is provide lots of safe distractions such as cardboard boxes and tubes, balls, newspaper (only if your rabbit doesn't ingest it), timothy hay, wood toys and mineral chews.
Boredom is usually to blame for heightened troublemaking, so giving your pet lots of supervised roaming time, entertainment and interaction diminishes their troublemaking capacity.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
