Question from the Audience: One or Two?

A question from Suzanna C. in Tampa, FL:
Q: I am thinking about adopting a pet bunny. I have been thinking and reading a lot about pet rabbits and now I'm fairly convinced that they would make ideal pets in my life right now. I just don't know if I should get one bunny or a bonded pair (of course neutered/spayed). We work full time so would be gone most of the day. My only concern with a bonded pair is that I don't know how affectionate they will be to us humans. What do you recommend?

A: It's great to hear that you're doing thorough research about rabbits before you adopt. Being completely aware of what to expect, knowing what you're getting into, and planning accordingly may be one of the most important steps in fostering a positive petcare situation.

As I frequently mention, rabbits are social animals. They are happiest in the company of others and since they are more occupied when in pairs, they're less likely to be destructive or get into trouble. Pairs also help groom each other, making for cleaner, healthier pets. And since you mentioned that you're gone for most of the day, I would especially recommend adopting a bonded pair. Pairs keep each other company while you're gone, and are therefore less bored and more happy!

Don't worry, it's not much extra care or effort to own two rather than one: a bonded pair can use the same cage, same litterbox, same food and water bowls, etc.

It's not uncommon to wonder whether or not a bonded bunny will like you the same way as a single bunny will. People often ask if their relationship with their single bunny will change once they get a second rabbit. However, because I've noticed that the relationship rabbits have with humans is separate from the one they have with each other, their status should really have no bearing on how they view you. Overall, the notion that the more attention you invest, the more attention you get back rings true regardless of how many rabbit friends are involved.

I recommend visiting some bonded pairs at a nearby rescue or shelter and seeing how you get along with them. Like all animals, rabbits have distinct personalities, unrelated to who they're already bonded with. All in all, bonded bunnies can be just as affectionate as single ones, and they'll sure appreciate having each other to snuggle with while you're gone during the day!

Question from the Audience: Getting to Know You

A question from Linda M. in San Jose, CA
Q: I have a 2 year old spayed female (Trixie) that I adopted about 2 months ago. Last weekend I took her to an adoption fair and there were two neutered male rabbits she liked so I adopted one of them (Jack). They have been doing really well and progressing quickly as I can tell from some of the other stories I read out there. I have only had Jack in the house for 4 days now and they already can peacefully co-exist in the same territory for the most part. Trixie has run of the house so I set up a pen for Jack, just so I could keep them separated if I needed to. I started out with the bathtub as neutral territory and moved from there. I didn't expect to be in common territory yet, but they kept approaching each other through the pen so I thought I would give it a whirl.
There is no aggression (no growling, biting, fisticuffing), but Jack is more interested than Trixie. He will nudge his head down looking for attention & sometimes she will groom him for 15 seconds or so and sometimes she will trot off to go find something more exciting. So then Jack follows her and nudges again. If she continues to ignore him then he gets persistent and will start to chase her or mount her. She is starting to hide and be more reclusive because she doesn't want to be bothered by him. So, is this a match that won't work because of their differing interest levels, or will one of them eventually come around to meet the expectations of the other? I hate to see poor Trixie uncomfortable or unhappy in her own home.

A: I know how hard it is to see your rabbit uncomfortable in her own home, especially when you feel the newcomer is picking on her, but it sounds like these two are progressing perfectly. After only four days, they are still in the "getting to know you" phase and even though Trixie seems slightly less interested in becoming friends, this is part of the process of determining dominance and finding a balance. Grooming, ignoring, and lack of true aggression are all positive signs in this initial phase. These behaviors all constitute the process of finding the perfect balance for their relationship. Your method of using the neutral territory of the bathtub was ideal—you probably avoided some aggression because they were introduced in a neutral space.

For the time being, make sure Trixie doesn't react aggressively to Jack's chasing; it's actually better if Trixie is willingly running away. Keep a close eye on mounting behaviors; stop it immediately if Jack mounts Trixie head-first (this could be very dangerous for the male) and intervene with prologued regular mounting. If Trixie's reclusiveness increases dramatically, slow down the bonding process by reducing the amount of time they spend together.

Keep supervising them and you should see the overall mood of their interactions slowly improving. Rabbit bonding can take months in some cases, so patience is important. However, these two already seem to be doing excellent and so just keep up the great work!

Jack (left) and Trixie (right), just days after Linda's initial email.

Question from the Audience: Sibling Rivalry

Question from Sean T. in Belmont, CA:

Q: I bought two very young bunnies 10 months ago. They were two males (brothers). After they became mature, they started fighting violently, so I had them both neutered and they were great friends again.

Since then, every few weeks they attack each other and then I separate them. A few days later they are friends again. This up and down cycle has been going on for 8 months. This time is different and they have not been friends in over a month. Is there anything I can do so they get along again? I don't like to see them separated.

A: After a rabbit gets neutered, his smell gradually changes as the hormones slowly filter out of his body. Therefore, it's no surprise that relations between them changed—they were actually new to each other. It's possible that the two brothers were not properly reintroduced after the surgeries; that is, introduced as if they were complete strangers (in neutral territory, with constant supervision, etc.). You could still try reintroducing them this way. Another commonly suggested method involves taking them for a car ride together. The overt stress of the transport forces the bunnies to bond together for safety and protection. You could also put their cages next to each other in your house and let them get used to each others' new scents.

It's interesting to note that rabbits, like humans, sometimes hold grudges. The cause for this new extended period of hostility may exist because they have associated the violent memories of fighting with each other. If you want to try to bond them again, you'll have to be extra patient, and you should know that there's a possibility you will have to house them separately for the rest of their lives.

Question from the Audience: Rats and Rabbits?

A question from Chad L. in Ridgewood, NY:
Q: I have a question concerning rabbits' behaviors with other animals. I currently have 3 rats and they are the most friendly social animals ever. I was wondering what your thoughts would be if I brought a rabbit home. The main area of concern is when they are all out together, obviously they would have constant supervision but do you see any reason from you experiences that would make you think that they would not get along? Thank you for your help.

A: Rabbits are social animals and are able to bond with dogs, cats, and guinea pigs, not to mention live happily with each other. You've got nothing to lose by taking your rats to an animal shelter and hosting playdates with a few potential rabbits. Be prepared to acknowledge that not every rabbit will be open to bonding with a rat--many rabbits might be overwhelmed by three quick-moving rats, but the combination could work out for some laid-back individuals. You might want to try a rabbit that has in the past gotten along with guinea pigs.

Of course, you will have to go through the full introduction procedures in a neutral territory under constant supervision, and I would encourage keeping them in separate cages even after they become friends. You'll also want to be aware that your interaction with rats and rabbits will be quite different, as rabbits prefer to stay on the ground and approach you, whereas rats, from what I gather, love crawling over you, etc.
Overall, if you do adopt, keep a close eye on them and make sure your rats don't act aggressively with the rabbit and vice versa. Be prepared for the chance that they might have to be kept separated. But I don't see any reason rats and rabbits can't become friends. Good luck!

Question from the Audience: Bunny Boredom

A question from Eileen R. in East Meadow, NY:
Q: I am a first time rabbit owner. Over the past year and half that I've owned Cannoli, I have learned a lot about rabbits. I have a few problems. He chews the bars to his cage even when he's not enclosed in it! He has full range of my bedroom with the cage open for his litter, water, food and hay. At 6am he will get into his cage and start chewing the bars for no reason! He will have food, water and hay in his cage so there is no reason for him to be making such a ruckus.
I know I shouldn't leave him out while I'm at work, but he is just so hard to get back in the cage! He is also extremely smart. If he is in his cage eating or drinking and sees me walking towards it, its like someone put a fire under his butt and he runs out the cage and to the other end of the room thinking I'm going to lock him in there! Any advice would be appreciated thanks!

A: Rabbits, being the highly intelligent creatures that they are, get bored easily if they are understimulated. And it sounds like that is exactly what Cannoli is trying to tell you: he wants attention!
Here are a few ideas to spice things up and keep him entertained:
1) Cannoli is probably craving interaction with you. Spend some time on the ground with him. Pet him, talk to him, offer him a piece of an apple. Try teaching him a new trick! If you're just watching TV, forgo the couch and sit on the floor with Cannoli.
2) Invest in a new toy or two. Since he obviously likes to chew, chew toys are a great choice. There's also some great baby or cat toys that work for rabbits too.
3) Let Cannoli explore a different room in the house. You'd be surprised how exciting this is for them. New smells, new objects, new view! Just watch out for new trouble and rabbit-proof beforehand.
4) Set up an exercise pen outside and let him explore the garden. If you have a very calm rabbit, you can even use a harness and leash, provided you are careful. Always supervise your rabbit when he's outside-- birds, domestic cats or dogs, raccoons, etc. can attack at any moment.
5) Set up a destruction corner, as I like to call it, with a big basket stuffed with newspaper, hay, cardboard, toys, etc. and allow him to make a mess. You can set up a destruction area outside with potting soil where he can dig around. It doesn't get much funner than that!
6) Consider adopting a friend for Cannoli. Bonded bunnies entertain each other and don't feel as lonely or bored. Remember, busy bunnies are less likely to cause trouble.
7) Note that rabbits are most active during dawn and dusk, which explains Cannoli's high-level of activity at 6am!
8) If Cannoli hasn't been neutered, get that done. All those adolescent hormones make for a crazy, rebellious troublemaker. Rabbits grow much calmer and more well-behaved after the surgery.

Don't worry too much about Cannoli's feistiness. He's still young. As rabbits grow older, they tend to calm down and behave better. Right now he's still filled with energy and is overactive, which, just like children, oftentimes manifests itself in destructive behaviors.

Cannoli says, "But look how cute and innocent I look!"

In regards to Cannoli's cage aversion, try making his cage a positive, fun, safe place to be. Try to figure out why Cannoli would have developed such negative feelings toward his cage. Perhaps it's not big enough and he feels uncomfortable there? Maybe he finds the cage boring? Fill it with hay, toys, an ice cream mineral chew, dangling cat toys, fun-to-chew carpet squares, and hidden treats. Make sure the cage and litterbox are cleaned often; rabbits have sensitive noses and don't like being subjected to strong odors.

Cannoli is extremely smart for running out of the cage when he can tell you are planning to lock him up. Decondition this response by casually walking over to his cage several times a day and closing him in only one out of every ten times. Reduce the severity of getting caged in by sometimes letting him back out 5-10 minutes later. Avoid chasing Cannoli into his cage, as this will correlate cage time with punishment, or something he is forced to do. Instead, coax him in there with a treat, so that he views cage time is an option or a choice of his own free will.

Question from the Audience: To Bond or Not to Bond?

A question from Judi G. in Naperville, IL:
Q: We have a bonded pair of bunnies (2 1/2 yr, spayed female and 1 1/2 yr, neutered male). My son recently was given a baby bunny - she is about 8 weeks old. Should we try to bond them as a threesome? If so, now? Or after the baby is spayed? Are we better off considering a fourth bunny for baby?

The older female is very laid back, so we have allowed her and the baby to be out for playtime together. The first 2 times, she basically ignored the baby, but last time, she attempted to "hump" baby. We separated them and have not let them out together since. Our boy seems very curious about baby and likes to investigate around her cage when he is out. He sometimes tries to nip at her through the cage and sometimes backs away to the corner. I try to keep her from the big bunnies' cage as I realize this is their territory and they will guard it, but she is quick and every now and then gets over there!

A: While bunny bonding is unfortunately not my area of expertise, I can offer some general guidelines about introducing rabbits. Most literature would advise waiting until the the baby has been spayed before allowing her to interact with the grownups. At eight weeks, the baby is nearing sexual maturity (usually at 3.5-4 months for females) which may cause fights to break out between her and the adults, as her increasing hormones make her more of a threat. Besides wanting to avoid injuries, you don't want the rabbits to associate negative memories with each other, as rabbits can, and often do, hold grudges.

You can keep the baby's cage in the same room as the adults so that they get used to each other's smells, as long as no one is getting stressed out by the others' presence and no territorial conflicts ensue. However, since it will still be about four months before the baby can be spayed, it might be wise to keep them separate to avoid confusion and stress. I'd make this judgment call based upon how the adults and baby seem to be reacting.

As you well know, an intact rabbit is less likely to bond with other rabbits, be more aggressive and territorial, and have all sorts of annoying sexual behaviors, so you'll want to spay the baby as soon as safely possible, at around six months. Make sure the baby (or by then "teenager") is completely healed before an introduction. Note that it takes about 3-4 weeks for the sex hormones to filter out of the system, so you'll need to allow time for this to happen. After about a month of healing, you can allow them to interact in a neutral setting.

Personally, I think it's a good idea to take the time to bond the three of them and make sure they all get along, so that everyone is able to be out at all times, and you don't have to keep certain ones caged, while others run around. If you were interested in introducing a fourth to the mix, same sex babies are really easy to put together. (Male-female baby pairings are dangerous, as you are risking a chance for pregnancy.) If you'd like to know more about bonding, the House Rabbit Network has a great and thorough article on bonding rabbits.

Question from the Audience: Adoption

A question from Michelle O. in Brooklyn, NY:

Q: Dear Rabbit Advocate: I am considering getting a rabbit...I just don't know if I have room for it in my apartment. Plus my apartment has a cat and I don't know if that would be a good combo. How much time and care do rabbits need? I work long hours but I would love to have a friendly rabbit. Also, could you tell me where I should look for one?

A: These are all important questions that you should think about before deciding to adopt a rabbit. It's hard to think logically when you see that fluffy adorable little furball, so make the informed decision to adopt or not before heading down to your local shelter.

The actual space that rabbits require is not much, though your living quarters do have to accommodate a sizable cage. Different rabbit breeds require different cage sizes--a dwarf mini-lop will have different requirements than a Flemish Giant. (Speaking of Flemish Giants, Murph is an upstanding gentleman at the Boston MSPCA, looking for a forever home. With big size comes a big heart!) But if you have the space for it, a bigger cage gives your rabbit more freedom. You will also need a space for your rabbit to run around. Your bedroom can work just fine for this, or a living room/family room. For a skittish rabbit, bigger isn't always better. Shy rabbits will feel more comfortable in smaller spaces. Otherwise, a moderate-sized playing area should be fine, as long as your rabbit has room to check out different things and do her morning sprints!

Mr. Murphs, the Flemish Giant

One thing rabbits need more of than space is interaction. Rabbits are not hamsters or guinea pigs. They are more on par with cats and dogs in terms of the level of companionship they seek. But just because you work a 9-5 job, you can still have a pet rabbit. On a daily basis, you will need to let your bunny run around a larger territory for a few hours and spend at least half hour bonding. The more you interact with her, the more she will trust you, and the more rewarding your friendship will be. There's a direct correlation here!

Regarding interspecies rabbit introductions, they are not to be taken lightly. However, the House Rabbit Society reports a high level of success between cats and rabbits. Read this literature to learn all the details of a cat/rabbit introduction.

The best place to find an adoptable rabbit will be at your local animal shelter. You can use petfinder.com to locate a nearby animal shelter or rescue organization and even see the available pets online. Look back here to find out exactly how petfinder works or just go straight to their website!