Quick Tip: Litter Box Trouble

Digging litter out of the litter box is a hugely annoying problem. My rabbit, Graysie, did this for most of her young life, and I tried all sorts of unsuccessful methods (huge covered litter boxes, different types of litter, clapping, yelling, etc. etc.). Finally, this surprisingly simple solution ended my frustrations: I purchased metal mesh/chicken wire and metal snips from a local hardware store, cut the chicken wire in the shape of the litter box, and after pouring in the fresh litter, I placed the tight-fitting metal wiring on top. The urine and droppings fell right through the wire and Graysie wasn't able to dig the litter out. Success!
Feel free to leave comments about how you solved one of your stubborn bunny's naughty habits!

Question from the Audience: Adoption

A question from Michelle O. in Brooklyn, NY:

Q: Dear Rabbit Advocate: I am considering getting a rabbit...I just don't know if I have room for it in my apartment. Plus my apartment has a cat and I don't know if that would be a good combo. How much time and care do rabbits need? I work long hours but I would love to have a friendly rabbit. Also, could you tell me where I should look for one?

A: These are all important questions that you should think about before deciding to adopt a rabbit. It's hard to think logically when you see that fluffy adorable little furball, so make the informed decision to adopt or not before heading down to your local shelter.

The actual space that rabbits require is not much, though your living quarters do have to accommodate a sizable cage. Different rabbit breeds require different cage sizes--a dwarf mini-lop will have different requirements than a Flemish Giant. (Speaking of Flemish Giants, Murph is an upstanding gentleman at the Boston MSPCA, looking for a forever home. With big size comes a big heart!) But if you have the space for it, a bigger cage gives your rabbit more freedom. You will also need a space for your rabbit to run around. Your bedroom can work just fine for this, or a living room/family room. For a skittish rabbit, bigger isn't always better. Shy rabbits will feel more comfortable in smaller spaces. Otherwise, a moderate-sized playing area should be fine, as long as your rabbit has room to check out different things and do her morning sprints!

Mr. Murphs, the Flemish Giant

One thing rabbits need more of than space is interaction. Rabbits are not hamsters or guinea pigs. They are more on par with cats and dogs in terms of the level of companionship they seek. But just because you work a 9-5 job, you can still have a pet rabbit. On a daily basis, you will need to let your bunny run around a larger territory for a few hours and spend at least half hour bonding. The more you interact with her, the more she will trust you, and the more rewarding your friendship will be. There's a direct correlation here!

Regarding interspecies rabbit introductions, they are not to be taken lightly. However, the House Rabbit Society reports a high level of success between cats and rabbits. Read this literature to learn all the details of a cat/rabbit introduction.

The best place to find an adoptable rabbit will be at your local animal shelter. You can use petfinder.com to locate a nearby animal shelter or rescue organization and even see the available pets online. Look back here to find out exactly how petfinder works or just go straight to their website!

Question from the Audience: Digging, Treats, Holding

And now, a three-part question from Sarah L. in Boston, MA. She writes:
Hi Rabbit Advocate! About a month ago, my boyfriend and I adopted Winnie from the MSPCA in Boston. She is doing absolutely wonderful. We love her so much and she is such a great bunny! However, we have a few questions:

Q: 1) Winnie loves to poke around and explore but sometimes she gets into the corner of the room and pulls and digs up the carpet! We've tried to clap and say 'no' when she does it and sometimes she'll stop, but sometimes she's pretty stubborn and completely ignores us and continues digging. Are there any other alternatives to prevent her from digging up the carpet? Or should we just continue to clap loudly and hope that she stops?

A: Unfortunately, this is a common complaint among rabbit owners. The chewing and digging instinct is very strong in bunnies, but it is markedly stronger in some individuals than others. I've lived with both varieties, and let's just say one is a little less stress-inducing than the other! So I can share in your frustration in this matter.
If the stern "no"s and clapping are being ignored (how rude!) gently push your rabbits nose away from the carpet and distract her with a game. Distraction and positive reinforcement are key. Rabbits also oftentimes view your negative feedback (clapping, verbal warnings, etc.) as a game. Discourage this, as it feeds into the bad behavior. Remove the rabbit from the situation or enforce a time-out to show that you're being serious!
Unfortunately, digging and chewing carpet is super-duper fun for rabbits. One option is getting a small square of carpet to put in her cage (unless she's ingesting the carpet fibers), thereby removing the novelty of the corner carpet. Or, if there's a specific place she consistently visits to dig and chew, move a heavy piece of furniture over it. Removing access to the spot may lessen the urge to destruct!
Lastly, as a note of reassurance, I am currently living with a former carpet enthusiast. After a long (loooong) time of repeated clappings and distractions, she rarely even notices the carpet anymore. Keep in mind that rabbits can be taught, but the process will likely not happen overnight.

Q: 2) I've read on a few websites that it's okay to feed your bunny cheerios. I've fed Winnie a few cheerios here and there and noticed that she loves them and gets extremely excited when she knows I have them in my hand. I just want to know if cheerios are okay to continue giving her.

A: I would recommend against feeding your rabbit any processed or high-carb human foods (Cheerios are both). You're right in questioning this snack. Of course, one Cheerio a week isn't going to kill your rabbit, but there are healthier alternatives out there, intended specifically for rabbits. Yogurt drops have a 100% success rate with every rabbit I've known and I've even been tempted on more than one occasion to try a nibble. (They smell delicious.) While these aren't on the health par with a cilantro bunch or basil leaves, they can safely be offered in half-servings. Or try small bits of apple as a treat. And if you do choose to keep on with the Cheerios, be on the lookout for diarrhea, or in the long-term, obesity. In these cases, cut the cereal.

Q: 3) Winnie loves to be pet but she absolutely hates being picked up. I'm pretty sure we're properly picking her up -- one hand under her bum and the other under arms and we when we pick her up, we hold her close to our body so she feels secure but she still gets really scared. Should we just stop trying to pick her up?

A: It sounds like you are picking Winnie up in the proper way. However, picking your bunny should be reserved for vet visits or other necessary times. Look back here for detailed advice on why rabbits prefer to be on the ground and alternative ways to interact with your bunny. Good luck with Winnie!

A picture of Winnie herself, courtesy of Sarah L. How festive!

How to Find Your New Best Friend

When I hear someone talking about wanting to get a dog from a breeder, I always interject with my usual "Forget the breeder! Adopt!" lecture. One of the most common responses I get is, "Oh, but I want a [insert breed name here]. I've had [breed name] my entire life and that's what I want!" Well, my friends, there is a better option. It's called petfinder.com. Petfinder is an online directory of virtually all adoptable animals currently at shelters, rescue groups and fosters. The site also allows users to search animals by breed, age, size, and gender. So, if dachshunds are your thing, you don't have to go to a breeder. You can locate one at a nearby animal shelter or find a breed-specific rescue organization. By adopting, you're no longer contributing to pet overpopulation, but instead ameliorating the situation and saving lives.



Petfinder also works for people seeking specific breeds of rabbit. It's hard to not take home all the cute little baby bunnies you see at pet stores, but we must resist supporting this abusive industry. There are many, many rabbits available at shelters, looking for loving homes. Stay away from pet stores and adopt!

Adoption Anyone?

LoveBug is looking for a loving forever home! She has been a terrific foster bunny and boasts some enviable qualities. She's three years old, spayed, litterbox trained, super friendly, and loves human company. She was dumped at the animal shelter when her previous owner moved and was no longer allowed to keep her.
She is an adorable and affectionate little girl just looking to find her place in the world.

Email me at TheRabbitAdvocate@gmail.com if you are interested in meeting her!

Adoption procedures must follow MSPCA guidelines, which includes a small adoption fee that covers spay surgery, medical examination, and a carrier.

Question from the Audience: Allergies

Our first blog-emailed question comes from Angy K. in Baltimore, MD:

Q: Hello Rabbit Advocate! I recently adopted a bunny named Toby. Overall he seems to be doing well in my house, he hops around, stays out of trouble and seems to be adjusting well. However, I noticed that he seems to now be sneezing a lot. At least, thats what it sounds like to me. Is it possible he has an allergy?

A: If your rabbit is experiencing frequent sneezing, you should make an appointment with your veterinarian to check him for an upper respiratory infection (colloquially "snuffles") or pneumonia. If these tests come back negative, your rabbit could have allergies.

Believe it or not, rabbit allergies are actually quite common. And I'm not referring here to the kind humans develop to rabbit fur or pet dander. Rabbits get allergies too! Some rabbits are much more sensitive to dust particles in the air than others and will develop recurrent sneezing, runny nose, and teary eyes.

Here are some things you can do to alleviate your rabbit's symptoms:
1) Experiment with a different type of litter. Dusty clay cat litter is a common irritant and the clumping kind should be avoided at all costs because it is dangerous when ingested. Cedar chips can also cause allergic reactions in your rabbit. The best litter I've found is Yesterday's News cat litter. Very absorbent, odor-reducing, affordable and non allergenic. It's also good for the environment, as it is made from recycled newspapers.
2) The hay that you're feeding to your rabbit is covered in dust and could be the culprit. Try buying a higher quality hay, as these are fresher and less dusty. Another thing you can do is shake the dust out of the hay before giving it to your rabbit.
3) If your rabbit's cage is right under a window and it's summer or spring, your rabbit could be reacting to allergens in the air, just like we often do. Moving your rabbit away from the window or door is one preventative measure. Talk to your vet also about the possibility of administering a low-dose antihistamine.4) It's also possible your bunny is allergic to a new toy/treat/or food. Eliminate any new objects or edible items you've recently introduced and see if the sneezing stops.

Rabbit allergies are quite annoying for your pet and can even be worrying to watch, but they're not causing permanent damage. Adjusting certain environmental factors is your best bet in alleviating symptoms. Good luck!

The Essentials: Approach

How you approach a rabbit is more important than you might think. As we all know, rabbits are prey animals and this fact should guide you as you interact with your bunny. Accordingly, if your rabbit is relatively skittish, don't walk up to her too quickly. A big, dark object quickly coming at a bunny can be quite scary! Instead sit down on the floor (or get even smaller and lay down) and your curious rabbit will approach you. This is a much less threatening way to interact with your pet and leads to a stronger, more trusting bond.

Another thing to keep in mind is eyesight. Rabbits' eyes are located on the side of their heads, (evolutionarily, for a higher range of sight, to escape those predators!) so naturally they cannot see well right in front of them. You may have noticed your bunny tilting her head to the side when trying to see something in front of her; this is to compensate this blind spot. It's important to be aware of this challenge in visibility, so you don't scare your bunny by coming at her from the front. Rabbits can even react aggressively if they can't make out exactly what is in front of them, so teaching your children about this blind spot can help avoid an accidental scratch.
The best advice on approach is to move slowly, make yourself seem small, and to encourage your rabbit come to you instead of the other way around.