As dedicated owners, we all know by now the vast importance of hay in our rabbits' diets. And while many of us have realized the advantages of bypassing the retail pet-superstores and going directly to local farmers selling bulk quantities of high quality, organic grass hays, it's true a good hay source isn't always easy to find. Many rural farms don't have websites or advertise in traditional media; news of their products and services tends to spread solely by word of mouth. Thus, those new to rabbit companionship, or even new to an area, may not be in the know about quality hay sources in their cities or towns.
I experienced this recently when I relocated from Boston, MA to Lafayette, IN, and was forced to find a new hay source. After weeks of unhappily buying miniature bags of tough, straw-like hay from a nearby pet store, I found out (due to sheer luck) about a local farmer selling organic timothy hay. Sure enough, the next day I brought home a fresh bale of organic second-cut timothy hay, all for a grand total of seven dollars. It's clear-- cutting out the packaging and shipping costs simply results in a better product at a cheaper price. What's not to love?
As I've been talking to other rabbit owners in the Lafayette area also seeking quality hay sources, I realized how helpful a nationwide (or even international!) database of organic grass hay farmers would be. The plan here at The Rabbit Advocate is to start a user-contributed database of farmers in all parts of the world selling quality grass hays. So, now it's up to you. Please send in your local farmer's contact information (with their consent) including name, website (if available), address, and phone number (if applicable). This way, others can find out about great hay sources in your area, and rabbits around the world will have ample quantities of delicious hay to munch on. I'll add them into the below database as they come. Those that have websites are linked. Hopefully we can make this as comprehensive a list as possible. Thanks in advance for your contributions!
UNITED STATES
Indiana
Dotson Farm and Feed: 2919 North 9th Street Road, Lafayette, IN 47904. Hay pickup call first (765) 742-5111
New York
Farmer Dave: 28 Fox Meadow Court, Orchard Park, NY 14127
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Friday, June 11, 2010
Keeping Cool in the Summer
Just because their wild cousins don’t have access to air conditioning, doesn’t mean our domesticated rabbit companions are also fine on their own during the summer. Not only are domestic rabbits a distinct species, they also don’t have the ability to burrow in the ground to spend the sweltering hours of a summer day in cool underground tunnels. But I’m sure most readers already agree on the importance of indoor housing for our rabbits.
Nevertheless, this doesn’t mean we can ignore the dangers of heat and humidity entirely. Upstairs levels of houses/apartments and sunrooms tend to concentrate warm air and negate wind to form greenhouse-like containers of extreme heat and humidity. If you are feeling uncomfortable inside, put on a giant (faux) fur coat to see how your rabbit feels. And it’s not just a matter of comfort-level; it’s a relevant medical concern—heat stroke is one of the top killers of the domestic rabbit. Temperatures above 80 degrees are dangerous, especially when dehydration or environmental stressors are also present.
Tips to keep your rabbit cool on a hot day:
1. A window air conditioning unit is your best friend and absolutely worth the investment. (I only bought an air conditioner once I had my first rabbit.) It's the easiest way to safely cool down you and your bunny's environment.
2. Fans can be helpful, but at a certain point they only serve to circulate warm air. Coupling a fan with an air conditioner can lower energy costs by reducing the needed strength and length of use of the AC unit, while maximizing cooling efforts.
3. A hot rabbit does not want to lie on carpet, so allow her onto an alternate surface or provide a ceramic tile block to lie on. Put the tile in the fridge for an hour for an even cooler surface!
4. A frozen water bottle can make a cool cuddle buddy on a hot summer day.
5. Since rabbits radiate heat from their ears, rubbing an ice cube or dabbing a little cold water on the outside of their ears can assist their cooling down efforts. Applying some water to the back of their necks can increase the evaporative cooling effect too. Avoid getting water into the ear canals though, as this can lead to irritation or even infection.
6. Frequently brush or manually remove loose fur to keep the coat at a minimum density. If you have a long-haired rabbit, such as an Angora or Jersey Wooly, consider trimming their fur with electric clippers (have your vet show you how) for the summer months. In fact, it’s a good idea to keep the fur short year-round to prevent matting and excessive fur ingestion.
7. As with people, adequate hydration is an important part of avoiding heat stroke. Provide a large bowl with fresh, chilled water and serve your bunny's daily veggies extra moistened.
8. If you have the option, a rabbit-proofed, finished basement can be a great place for a rabbit in the summer months, as they are usually the coolest part of the house. Basements tend to also be low-traffic, so make sure you spend adequate time downstairs so your rabbit doesn't get lonely or bored. Move your computer or the TV (don't forget to hide the wires!) to the basement so you can continue spending quality time together. Or allow your bun the opportunity to willingly come upstairs for some socializing when the mood strikes. This may involve helping her understand stairs and how to properly use them.
Most importantly, always be cognizant of the temperature and carefully note any changes in your pet's behavior or appetite. An overheated rabbit will be inactive and could also stop eating, further jeopardizing her health. Take the issue of heat seriously and be proactive at helping your fur friend stay cool. In the event of a heat stroke, wrap ice packs around your bunny and get her to a rabbit savvy vet as fast as possible.
Nevertheless, this doesn’t mean we can ignore the dangers of heat and humidity entirely. Upstairs levels of houses/apartments and sunrooms tend to concentrate warm air and negate wind to form greenhouse-like containers of extreme heat and humidity. If you are feeling uncomfortable inside, put on a giant (faux) fur coat to see how your rabbit feels. And it’s not just a matter of comfort-level; it’s a relevant medical concern—heat stroke is one of the top killers of the domestic rabbit. Temperatures above 80 degrees are dangerous, especially when dehydration or environmental stressors are also present.
Tips to keep your rabbit cool on a hot day:
1. A window air conditioning unit is your best friend and absolutely worth the investment. (I only bought an air conditioner once I had my first rabbit.) It's the easiest way to safely cool down you and your bunny's environment.
2. Fans can be helpful, but at a certain point they only serve to circulate warm air. Coupling a fan with an air conditioner can lower energy costs by reducing the needed strength and length of use of the AC unit, while maximizing cooling efforts.
3. A hot rabbit does not want to lie on carpet, so allow her onto an alternate surface or provide a ceramic tile block to lie on. Put the tile in the fridge for an hour for an even cooler surface!
4. A frozen water bottle can make a cool cuddle buddy on a hot summer day.
5. Since rabbits radiate heat from their ears, rubbing an ice cube or dabbing a little cold water on the outside of their ears can assist their cooling down efforts. Applying some water to the back of their necks can increase the evaporative cooling effect too. Avoid getting water into the ear canals though, as this can lead to irritation or even infection.
6. Frequently brush or manually remove loose fur to keep the coat at a minimum density. If you have a long-haired rabbit, such as an Angora or Jersey Wooly, consider trimming their fur with electric clippers (have your vet show you how) for the summer months. In fact, it’s a good idea to keep the fur short year-round to prevent matting and excessive fur ingestion.
7. As with people, adequate hydration is an important part of avoiding heat stroke. Provide a large bowl with fresh, chilled water and serve your bunny's daily veggies extra moistened.
8. If you have the option, a rabbit-proofed, finished basement can be a great place for a rabbit in the summer months, as they are usually the coolest part of the house. Basements tend to also be low-traffic, so make sure you spend adequate time downstairs so your rabbit doesn't get lonely or bored. Move your computer or the TV (don't forget to hide the wires!) to the basement so you can continue spending quality time together. Or allow your bun the opportunity to willingly come upstairs for some socializing when the mood strikes. This may involve helping her understand stairs and how to properly use them.
Most importantly, always be cognizant of the temperature and carefully note any changes in your pet's behavior or appetite. An overheated rabbit will be inactive and could also stop eating, further jeopardizing her health. Take the issue of heat seriously and be proactive at helping your fur friend stay cool. In the event of a heat stroke, wrap ice packs around your bunny and get her to a rabbit savvy vet as fast as possible.
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Question from the Audience: Location, location, location
A question from Nancy F. in Boston, MA:
Q: I have two male Newfoundland Dwarf rabbits I adopted at the end of this past summer (Douglas and Andrew are their names). Currently they stay in their 'pen' in the basement.
Here is my issue: when I get home from work I like to bring them upstairs in their carrier and I have a heck of a time getting them to go into said carrier to bring them to the upper floor where they basically have the run of the place (they are litter box trained). Andrew generally seems to be more amenable to going upstairs, but Douglas will squeak and hide and run away when I try to get him to go in so I don't force him (I don't want to upset him). This usually means Andrew gets playtime upstairs and Douglas doesn't. On the occasions when I can actually get them up to the first floor they run and jump and hide and generally have a wonderful time.
I don't try to pick them up b/c they clearly don't like it but I talk to them and pet them whenever I can. How can I 'corral' (if you will) my rabbits in to the carrier more easily? Sometimes it can take up to an hour to return them to the basement and if it's been a long day I can't always afford to invest that much chasing time.
A: I have a suggestion regarding your situation, and I think this one minor change will actually make a huge difference. You say you keep the rabbit cage in the basement; if you kept the rabbit's cage in your living room, the situation would improve drastically. This way Douglas and Andrew would be able to come out of their cage easily and comfortably whenever you opened the cage door. This would save you a ton of time and stress too-- instead of corralling them into carriers (I can only imagine how long that would take!), all you'd have to do is open the cage door and let them out. Since this is easier on you, I'm sure the bunnies would get more time out of their cages as well.
You're right that most rabbits don't like to be picked up, but they also don't like to be confined in carriers and carried about for similar reasons--it is scary! They experience a full range of stress every time they have to go in and out of their carriers, and this stress would be easy to cut out by keeping their cage upstairs. Furthermore, since they are currently unable to see/access their cage (an area of safety) from the living room, they could be experiencing stress from this as well.
If their cage is upstairs in your living room, then you'll no longer have to corral them back into carriers when you want to get them back in their cages; it's much easier to coax a rabbit into a cage than a carrier. Try calling Douglas and Andrew's names and offering them a treat once they've gone inside.
You'll be surprised how much you enjoy having them up there and interacting with you more; they'll become more socialized and you'll also have an easier go of allowing them their out-of-cage run around time.
***UPDATE from Nancy 2/18/2010***
I wanted to give you an update and thank you for your very sound advice. Douglas and Andrew moved into our back hall in a large dog crate last week. They have supervised reign of our kitchen when we’re home and they seem so very happy with the new set up. I can’t tell you how much fun it is for me to sit on the floor and have my coffee with them in the morning. So, thanks very much for your suggestion of moving them upstairs, we’re all a lot happier (Douglas hardly squeaks at me anymore – just a tiny bit if he doesn’t want his cheeks rubbed or he’s scared). Now on to training them to go into their cage upon command!
Q: I have two male Newfoundland Dwarf rabbits I adopted at the end of this past summer (Douglas and Andrew are their names). Currently they stay in their 'pen' in the basement.
Here is my issue: when I get home from work I like to bring them upstairs in their carrier and I have a heck of a time getting them to go into said carrier to bring them to the upper floor where they basically have the run of the place (they are litter box trained). Andrew generally seems to be more amenable to going upstairs, but Douglas will squeak and hide and run away when I try to get him to go in so I don't force him (I don't want to upset him). This usually means Andrew gets playtime upstairs and Douglas doesn't. On the occasions when I can actually get them up to the first floor they run and jump and hide and generally have a wonderful time.
I don't try to pick them up b/c they clearly don't like it but I talk to them and pet them whenever I can. How can I 'corral' (if you will) my rabbits in to the carrier more easily? Sometimes it can take up to an hour to return them to the basement and if it's been a long day I can't always afford to invest that much chasing time.
A: I have a suggestion regarding your situation, and I think this one minor change will actually make a huge difference. You say you keep the rabbit cage in the basement; if you kept the rabbit's cage in your living room, the situation would improve drastically. This way Douglas and Andrew would be able to come out of their cage easily and comfortably whenever you opened the cage door. This would save you a ton of time and stress too-- instead of corralling them into carriers (I can only imagine how long that would take!), all you'd have to do is open the cage door and let them out. Since this is easier on you, I'm sure the bunnies would get more time out of their cages as well.
You're right that most rabbits don't like to be picked up, but they also don't like to be confined in carriers and carried about for similar reasons--it is scary! They experience a full range of stress every time they have to go in and out of their carriers, and this stress would be easy to cut out by keeping their cage upstairs. Furthermore, since they are currently unable to see/access their cage (an area of safety) from the living room, they could be experiencing stress from this as well.
If their cage is upstairs in your living room, then you'll no longer have to corral them back into carriers when you want to get them back in their cages; it's much easier to coax a rabbit into a cage than a carrier. Try calling Douglas and Andrew's names and offering them a treat once they've gone inside.
You'll be surprised how much you enjoy having them up there and interacting with you more; they'll become more socialized and you'll also have an easier go of allowing them their out-of-cage run around time.
***UPDATE from Nancy 2/18/2010***
I wanted to give you an update and thank you for your very sound advice. Douglas and Andrew moved into our back hall in a large dog crate last week. They have supervised reign of our kitchen when we’re home and they seem so very happy with the new set up. I can’t tell you how much fun it is for me to sit on the floor and have my coffee with them in the morning. So, thanks very much for your suggestion of moving them upstairs, we’re all a lot happier (Douglas hardly squeaks at me anymore – just a tiny bit if he doesn’t want his cheeks rubbed or he’s scared). Now on to training them to go into their cage upon command!
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Hoppy Holidays from The Rabbit Advocate
My good friends Kelly and Eric adopted Bunnicula from the Boston MSPCA about two years ago. She is a prime example of the underestimated tenacious, comical and entertaining side of rabbits.
Hope you enjoy as much as I did, and hope you all have a hoppy New Years!
Hope you enjoy as much as I did, and hope you all have a hoppy New Years!
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Health Special: Malocclusion in Rabbits
Malocclusion, referring to the misalignment of teeth, is a common ailment of the house rabbit. As with dogs bred to have “cute” smushed-in faces, certain breeds of rabbit, like the dwarf varieties, are especially prone to congenital deformities of the mouth. What makes malocclusion so serious for bunnies, however, is that rabbit teeth grow continuously. Normally, their teeth match up perfectly, so they’re kept ground down by the action of chewing. (Just one more reason giving your rabbit unlimited hay is so important!) Since maloccluded incisors don't match up, the teeth don’t file down and instead continue growing endlessly. As the incisors become overgrown, eating and drinking become harder and harder for the rabbit, all the while causing significant discomfort inside and outside the mouth as the teeth grow into the roof of the mouth and dig into the surrounding skin of the face. Untreated, this malformation can cause a slow and painful death.
Trimming teeth is not recommended because microfractures, a common sequelae, can lead to tooth root abscesses. Grinding down the teeth every two months or so is sometimes the only viable solution for the cheek teeth; but maloccluded incisors can also be extracted, fixing the problems permanently.
Recently, a rabbit with malocclusion and severely overgrown incisors arrived at the local shelter. Due to his complicated and chronic medical condition, he was slated for euthanasia.
I, on the other hand, wasn’t ready to give up that easily. After consulting with some fellow rabbit experts at House Rabbit Network, I learned that extracting the rabbit's incisors could give him a chance at being healthy, and therefore, adoption. It seemed simple enough—the defective six front teeth would be removed, and after the mouth healed, he would learn to use his lips to pick up food and use the rest of his 22 teeth to grind his food. I spoke with a fantastic veterinarian at the VCA Wakefield Animal Hospital who explained that the surgery was relatively straightforward, the recovery was minimal, and, she said, the rabbit would be as good as new when it was over. In fact, he would even have a slight advantage over rabbits looking for homes—with no front teeth, rabbit-proofing would be a breeze!
I immediately brought the rabbit, who I had named Charley, home. He was severely underweight and malnourished from weeks of eating difficulties, so I spent a couple days feeding him a high-calorie, high-fiber, easy-to-chew diet, which included Critical Care, oatmeal, canned pumpkin, vegetable medley baby food, chopped strawberries, collard greens and cilantro, and even timothy hay broken into small, bite-sized bits. He chowed down for two days straight, and proved his will to live by bouncing all over my house and spending hours sleeping in my lap. Fortunately, House Rabbit Network had offered to foot the bill for the surgery, so after he had regained some strength, we were ready. On an early Wednesday morning, we drove up to Wakefield
He’s now a happy, rambunctious little guy, and might I add, perfectly adoptable. I hope this story inspires other owners and shelters with rabbits with dental problems to consider this alternative. As Charley sprints around my living room like a maniac, I can say with full confidence, that incisor extraction is a fantastically helpful surgery, a procedure we would both recommend to anyone.
Charley Before
Charley After
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Question from the Audience: Paw Flicking
A question from Elsie C. in Manchester, UK:
Q: My one year old house rabbit keeps flicking his front paws, one at a time. It is a kind of flick/shake. Any idea why? He is also quieter than normal instead of running around.
A: Rabbits usually flick their paws right before they plan to groom their faces or ears. Is he flicking his paws for a few seconds and then grooming himself? Is so, that is absolutely fine. If he is just flicking his paws repeatedly, then it would be worth it to have a closer look at his paws (is there something stuck to them? does he have a splinter or something of the sort? are they hurting? are they numb? do his nails need to be trimmed/getting caught in the carpet?). If you can't determine anything off about his paws, it might be a good idea to have a vet take a closer look at them.
I'd actually be more worried about him being "quieter than normal." Rabbits, being prey animals, really work to hide their symptoms. Once a rabbit is exhibiting unusual behaviors, you really want to pay close attention. Is he eating the same amount? Bathroom behaviors changed/droppings look the same? Acting depressed? Listless? If you said yes to any of these four questions, then don't wait to make an appointment with a rabbit-savvy veterinarian. These are surefire signs something is not right with your bunny, and when it's reached a stage with any of these symptoms, things can go very fast.
Q: My one year old house rabbit keeps flicking his front paws, one at a time. It is a kind of flick/shake. Any idea why? He is also quieter than normal instead of running around.
A: Rabbits usually flick their paws right before they plan to groom their faces or ears. Is he flicking his paws for a few seconds and then grooming himself? Is so, that is absolutely fine. If he is just flicking his paws repeatedly, then it would be worth it to have a closer look at his paws (is there something stuck to them? does he have a splinter or something of the sort? are they hurting? are they numb? do his nails need to be trimmed/getting caught in the carpet?). If you can't determine anything off about his paws, it might be a good idea to have a vet take a closer look at them.
I'd actually be more worried about him being "quieter than normal." Rabbits, being prey animals, really work to hide their symptoms. Once a rabbit is exhibiting unusual behaviors, you really want to pay close attention. Is he eating the same amount? Bathroom behaviors changed/droppings look the same? Acting depressed? Listless? If you said yes to any of these four questions, then don't wait to make an appointment with a rabbit-savvy veterinarian. These are surefire signs something is not right with your bunny, and when it's reached a stage with any of these symptoms, things can go very fast.
Monday, June 8, 2009
A Free and Easy Way to Help a Shelter Bunny
One thing that always arrives with summer is the appearance of farmer's markets. And one thing that always comes with farmer's markets are leftovers! Ask a vegetable stand at your farmer's market about donating their unsold veggies, scraps, or even unusable parts (carrot, radish, beet tops) to your local shelter's rabbits. All you have to do is transport the goods to the shelter, as often as you like. It's an easy way to give a shelter bunny a healthy meal for free. Make sure to relay which veggies are okay, and which to avoid (ie tomatoes, beans, potatoes, rhubarb; and use carrots, bananas, (anything with high sugar) sparingly).
Atlas Farms has been donating their delicious organic vegetables to the Boston MSPCA for a few weeks, and it's turning out great for everyone involved. See pictures below for proof! (All of these bunnies are available for adoption through the Boston MSPCA; click on their names for additional information.)
Miss Bunny
Oreo
Dottie
Eddie
Neil
Sneezy
Chris
Barney
Wabbit
Cheesey
Piper & Widget (Guinea pigs need greens too!)
Another idea: If you're baking/cooking with strawberries and have a ton of strawberry tops, save them in an airtight container and take them to your shelter. Strawberry tops make for a delicious treat!
Thanks for thinking of helping out a shelter or rescue in your area!
Atlas Farms has been donating their delicious organic vegetables to the Boston MSPCA for a few weeks, and it's turning out great for everyone involved. See pictures below for proof! (All of these bunnies are available for adoption through the Boston MSPCA; click on their names for additional information.)
Miss Bunny
Oreo
Dottie
Eddie
Neil
Sneezy
Chris
Barney
Wabbit
Cheesey
Piper & Widget (Guinea pigs need greens too!)
Another idea: If you're baking/cooking with strawberries and have a ton of strawberry tops, save them in an airtight container and take them to your shelter. Strawberry tops make for a delicious treat!
Thanks for thinking of helping out a shelter or rescue in your area!
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