The Rabbit Advocate

Bunny Lessons from Amy Sedaris

2011-07-10T14:50:00.003-04:00

Thanks to comedienne Amy Sedaris and HRS Educator Mary Cotter for this excellent video!

The Easter Bunny Isn't Real

2011-04-17T21:14:00.011-04:00

I know all of us bunnyparents look forward to the Easter holiday season and the sudden availability of all imaginable rabbit-shaped objects that comes along with it. But while we’re enjoying the bunny cards and figurines, we need to realize that Easter is also a terrible time for many rabbits. Year after year, unsuspecting parents buy real baby bunnies to put in their children’s Easter baskets alongside jelly beans and chocolate eggs. Weeks later, these rabbits are dumped at shelters or (even worse) released into the wild, when the family slowly realizes that rabbits are not perfectly behaved inanimate objects.

As you and I know, rabbits are not toys, and they’re certainly not appropriate gifts for young children. Help spread the word to people in your area by writing in to your local newspaper, putting up posters at obliging shops/malls/grocery stores/veterinary clinics, or simply talking to friends and family about the commitment involved in owning a rabbit. Shelter and rescue volunteers have already begun spreading the word all over the country and I urge you to reach out and educate your local town or city about choosing toy rabbits for Easter, and adopting real rabbits for life.

While Peanut (left) and Jimmy may look like toys, these 3 lb. dwarf Hotots are real-life bunny brothers, adopted for life by Caroline and Matt in Boston, MA.

To read more about a national Easter awareness initiative, check out the House Rabbit Society’s Make Mine Chocolate campaign.

And the Winner of the Adoption Story Contest is...

2011-03-15T08:29:00.005-04:00

...Kelly S. in Boston, MA!

"As a small animal volunteer at the local shelter, I’m always fighting the urge to adopt. “Our apartment is too small,” “my boyfriend would never agree to adopt a rabbit,” and “how would our cats react?” were typical thoughts that reminded me I was not in a position to adopt a small animal. However, everything changed when Bunnicula, a large New Zealand rabbit, was brought to the shelter. The sign on the window of her cage stated that her previous owners no longer had time to care for her. I opened the door to her cage that first day and Bunnicula hopped right over to me, giving my hand a little nudge to let me know she wanted attention. I remember thinking that she was so calm and gentle, despite her large size. As the months went by, I saw many of the smaller rabbits get adopted, but Bunnicula remained at the shelter. Maybe people we intimidated by her size, or her white fur and bright pink eyes. But to me, she was perfect, and I knew it was time to give this wonderful bunny her forever home.

Bunnicula (or Boo as we like to call her) is the perfect addition to our family. I found out that our apartment could easily handle a rabbit, my boyfriend has a soft spot for bunnies, and that cats and rabbits can be best friends. We couldn’t imagine our family without our Boo!"

What a wonderful story! And it has a great moral too-- to never judge a book by it's cover. When choosing a pet for adoption, sometimes we can get really caught up in certain looks or specific breeds that we imagine for ourselves. Kelly and Boo remind us that personality and character are what really matter when picking a best friend. New Zealands generally have laid-back, outgoing personalities but can have trouble finding homes because of their large size or red eyes (personally, I think they look like beautiful rubies). In honor of Petfinder's "Adopt the Internet Day" and Boo's story, here are a handful of Petfinder profiles of available New Zealands in the midwest:

Whitley, in Brownsburg, IN, via EARPS Exotic Animal Rescue
Louie, in Louisville, KY, via Indiana HRS
Mo, in Louisville, KY, via Indiana HRS
Rosey, in Urbana, IL, via Champaign County Humane Society
Angel, in Madison, WI, via Wisconsin HRS
Floyd, in Plymouth, MI, via Midwest Rabbit Rescue and Rehome

Petfinder.com is so great because you can see pictures and read descriptions of animals' personalities, allowing you to find the perfect match for your family. Hoppy 15th birthday Petfinder and congrats to our contest winner!

Celebrate Petfinder's Birthday by Sending in Your Adoption Story!

2011-03-03T21:26:00.012-05:00

March 15, 2011 will be Petfinder.com's 15th birthday! This revolutionary website has not only helped unite hundreds of thousands of homeless pets with their adoptive parents, it also tirelessly works to educate and entertain the public with their blog, message boards, library of articles on pet health, behavior, training, and much more. To celebrate this exciting milestone, Petfinder.com is staging a takeover of the Internet on March 15. This will entail a massive awareness explosion about adoption and shelter animals by numerous participating pet-centric blogs.

In honor of this momentous occasion, here at The Rabbit Advocate, I am hosting a rabbit adoption story contest. Send in a picture and story (up to 100 words) of how you and your bunny friend found each other and I will post a winner here on March 15th. Let's all get to writing!

There's no better time to spoil your bunny

2011-02-03T12:53:00.009-05:00

Today is National Carrot Day, apparently. And with it being February, which has been declared "Adopt a Rescued Rabbit Month," and the year 2011, which is the Year of the Rabbit in Chinese astrology, I dare say the stars are aligned for indulging your rabbit(s) with an extra piece of carrot this evening.

This message brought to you by Daisy and rabbits around the world.

Tips on Saving Bunny Money

2010-11-14T19:35:00.012-05:00

Most owners know that rabbits are not cheap pets-- their medical care as exotic animals can add up, and they seem to love chewing on your most expensive items (clothes, furniture, equipment, etc.). However, there are several easy ways to reduce the costs of their daily care and manage your rabbit expenses more effectively.

Hay
Buying small bags of hay from commercial pet stores can get expensive fast! Buying hay directly from a farmer (check out or contribute to the national hay database) can cut costs way down. Ordering hay in 50 lb boxes online from farms is already a bargain compared to the small bags from pet stores, but taking a trip to a local farmer to buy a bale is really the way to go. A bale of Timothy hay, which can last several months, typically costs about $10.

Vegetables
Ask your local grocery store to collect their vegetable scraps for you. Grocery stores throw away tons of perfectly good veggies, including carrot, beet, and radish tops, or the outer layers of lettuces, cabbages, and other greens. Farmer's markets are also a fantastic source for free vegetables. Be sure to never use vegetables that look wilted or old and wash everything extra carefully. Another idea is to try growing your own mint (which grows like a weed), parsley or other herbs in your garden.

Litter
A little insider knowledge here can save you some big bucks! If you use Yesterday's News, buy the bags in the cat litter section, as they tend to be much cheaper per pound than the bags sold in the small animal section. Another economical option is to buy wood stove pellets from a hardware store (like Lowe's). A 40lb bag can cost you around $6, depending on where you live. Wood stove pellets are similar to Feline Pine litter, and work just as well, but are up to three times cheaper.

The Litterbox
A litterbox is really just a plastic box, so why pay extra money for a fancy cat litterpan from a pet store, when you can grab a shallow plastic box from Walmart for half the price?

Toys
There are a lot of expensive bunny toys available, but it seems more often than not, rabbits just love playing with old fashioned toys that don't cost a cent, like cardboard boxes, toilet paper rolls stuffed with hay, and cardboard tunnels or castles. Buying baby toys (like plastic keys on a ring, etc.) can be cheaper than a similar product sold in a pet store. Just make sure that the plastic is hard, and not the "teething" kind, which can be chewed and ingested.

And one thing not to skimp on...
Pellets
There's a wide variety of pellets available, with a wide variety of price tags. You don't need to go for the most expensive bag out there, but you do need to make sure the first ingredient is Timothy hay, as opposed to Alfalfa. Alfalfa-based products tend to be cheaper, and you might have to pay noticeably more for the high-quality Timothy-based ones, but with all the money you've saved with the other techniques, this should be a fair trade off!

Graysie contemplating the various aspects of personal finance.

Maloccluded No More.. An Update on Charley

2010-09-13T23:11:00.017-04:00

We met Charley back in November 2009, a young bunny at a shelter, days away from euthanasia due to his dental condition. His case taught me not only about rabbit malocclusion, but also about maintaining hope in a desperate situation, and more specifically, about the importance of giving every shelter animal a fighting chance, despite medical setbacks.

It occurred to me today that you all might want an update on his whereabouts and even see a few pictures of him in his new life.

Believe it or not, Charley was adopted by an amazing woman who already owned a toothless rabbit, Pedro, (and a fully-toothed one as well, Rico)-- both of whom had also been adopted from the House Rabbit Network. She sends me regular updates and pictures of him and his brothers. Suffice it to say, he is one lucky rabbit. I'll leave it to the pictures for the rest of the story.

Charley has a happy ending. I hope these pictures remind you of what each animal deserves and what each animal loses when they are denied a chance at life. Shelters are overcrowded and euthanasia for space purposes is still a relevant reality. Remember the direct link between adoption and overpopulation. Spay and neuter your pets. Talk to others about the importance of spaying and neutering. Volunteer. Fundraise. Donate. Educate. Inspire those around you. And perhaps most importantly, don't lose the meaning of "one by one." When in doubt, remember what that "one" means to Charley.

Farm Fresh Hay Database

2010-08-22T22:51:00.002-04:00

As dedicated owners, we all know by now the vast importance of hay in our rabbits' diets. And while many of us have realized the advantages of bypassing the retail pet-superstores and going directly to local farmers selling bulk quantities of high quality, organic grass hays, it's true a good hay source isn't always easy to find. Many rural farms don't have websites or advertise in traditional media; news of their products and services tends to spread solely by word of mouth. Thus, those new to rabbit companionship, or even new to an area, may not be in the know about quality hay sources in their cities or towns.

I experienced this recently when I relocated from Boston, MA to Lafayette, IN, and was forced to find a new hay source. After weeks of unhappily buying miniature bags of tough, straw-like hay from a nearby pet store, I found out (due to sheer luck) about a local farmer selling organic timothy hay. Sure enough, the next day I brought home a fresh bale of organic second-cut timothy hay, all for a grand total of seven dollars. It's clear-- cutting out the packaging and shipping costs simply results in a better product at a cheaper price. What's not to love?

As I've been talking to other rabbit owners in the Lafayette area also seeking quality hay sources, I realized how helpful a nationwide (or even international!) database of organic grass hay farmers would be. The plan here at The Rabbit Advocate is to start a user-contributed database of farmers in all parts of the world selling quality grass hays. So, now it's up to you. Please send in your local farmer's contact information (with their consent) including name, website (if available), address, and phone number (if applicable). This way, others can find out about great hay sources in your area, and rabbits around the world will have ample quantities of delicious hay to munch on. I'll add them into the below database as they come. Those that have websites are linked. Hopefully we can make this as comprehensive a list as possible. Thanks in advance for your contributions!

UNITED STATES

Indiana
Dotson Farm and Feed: 2919 North 9th Street Road, Lafayette, IN 47904. Hay pickup call first (765) 742-5111

New York
Farmer Dave: 28 Fox Meadow Court, Orchard Park, NY 14127

Keeping Cool in the Summer

2010-06-11T17:28:00.004-04:00

Just because their wild cousins don’t have access to air conditioning, doesn’t mean our domesticated rabbit companions are also fine on their own during the summer. Not only are domestic rabbits a distinct species, they also don’t have the ability to burrow in the ground to spend the sweltering hours of a summer day in cool underground tunnels. But I’m sure most readers already agree on the importance of indoor housing for our rabbits.

Nevertheless, this doesn’t mean we can ignore the dangers of heat and humidity entirely. Upstairs levels of houses/apartments and sunrooms tend to concentrate warm air and negate wind to form greenhouse-like containers of extreme heat and humidity. If you are feeling uncomfortable inside, put on a giant (faux) fur coat to see how your rabbit feels. And it’s not just a matter of comfort-level; it’s a relevant medical concern—heat stroke is one of the top killers of the domestic rabbit. Temperatures above 80 degrees are dangerous, especially when dehydration or environmental stressors are also present.

Tips to keep your rabbit cool on a hot day:

1. A window air conditioning unit is your best friend and absolutely worth the investment. (I only bought an air conditioner once I had my first rabbit.) It's the easiest way to safely cool down you and your bunny's environment.

2. Fans can be helpful, but at a certain point they only serve to circulate warm air. Coupling a fan with an air conditioner can lower energy costs by reducing the needed strength and length of use of the AC unit, while maximizing cooling efforts.

3. A hot rabbit does not want to lie on carpet, so allow her onto an alternate surface or provide a ceramic tile block to lie on. Put the tile in the fridge for an hour for an even cooler surface!

4. A frozen water bottle can make a cool cuddle buddy on a hot summer day.

5. Since rabbits radiate heat from their ears, rubbing an ice cube or dabbing a little cold water on the outside of their ears can assist their cooling down efforts. Applying some water to the back of their necks can increase the evaporative cooling effect too. Avoid getting water into the ear canals though, as this can lead to irritation or even infection.

6. Frequently brush or manually remove loose fur to keep the coat at a minimum density. If you have a long-haired rabbit, such as an Angora or Jersey Wooly, consider trimming their fur with electric clippers (have your vet show you how) for the summer months. In fact, it’s a good idea to keep the fur short year-round to prevent matting and excessive fur ingestion.

7. As with people, adequate hydration is an important part of avoiding heat stroke. Provide a large bowl with fresh, chilled water and serve your bunny's daily veggies extra moistened.

8. If you have the option, a rabbit-proofed, finished basement can be a great place for a rabbit in the summer months, as they are usually the coolest part of the house. Basements tend to also be low-traffic, so make sure you spend adequate time downstairs so your rabbit doesn't get lonely or bored. Move your computer or the TV (don't forget to hide the wires!) to the basement so you can continue spending quality time together. Or allow your bun the opportunity to willingly come upstairs for some socializing when the mood strikes. This may involve helping her understand stairs and how to properly use them.

Most importantly, always be cognizant of the temperature and carefully note any changes in your pet's behavior or appetite. An overheated rabbit will be inactive and could also stop eating, further jeopardizing her health. Take the issue of heat seriously and be proactive at helping your fur friend stay cool. In the event of a heat stroke, wrap ice packs around your bunny and get her to a rabbit savvy vet as fast as possible.

Question from the Audience: Location, location, location

2010-01-28T13:02:00.003-05:00

A question from Nancy F. in Boston, MA:

Q: I have two male Newfoundland Dwarf rabbits I adopted at the end of this past summer (Douglas and Andrew are their names). Currently they stay in their 'pen' in the basement.
Here is my issue: when I get home from work I like to bring them upstairs in their carrier and I have a heck of a time getting them to go into said carrier to bring them to the upper floor where they basically have the run of the place (they are litter box trained). Andrew generally seems to be more amenable to going upstairs, but Douglas will squeak and hide and run away when I try to get him to go in so I don't force him (I don't want to upset him). This usually means Andrew gets playtime upstairs and Douglas doesn't. On the occasions when I can actually get them up to the first floor they run and jump and hide and generally have a wonderful time.

I don't try to pick them up b/c they clearly don't like it but I talk to them and pet them whenever I can. How can I 'corral' (if you will) my rabbits in to the carrier more easily? Sometimes it can take up to an hour to return them to the basement and if it's been a long day I can't always afford to invest that much chasing time.

A: I have a suggestion regarding your situation, and I think this one minor change will actually make a huge difference. You say you keep the rabbit cage in the basement; if you kept the rabbit's cage in your living room, the situation would improve drastically. This way Douglas and Andrew would be able to come out of their cage easily and comfortably whenever you opened the cage door. This would save you a ton of time and stress too-- instead of corralling them into carriers (I can only imagine how long that would take!), all you'd have to do is open the cage door and let them out. Since this is easier on you, I'm sure the bunnies would get more time out of their cages as well.

You're right that most rabbits don't like to be picked up, but they also don't like to be confined in carriers and carried about for similar reasons--it is scary! They experience a full range of stress every time they have to go in and out of their carriers, and this stress would be easy to cut out by keeping their cage upstairs. Furthermore, since they are currently unable to see/access their cage (an area of safety) from the living room, they could be experiencing stress from this as well.

If their cage is upstairs in your living room, then you'll no longer have to corral them back into carriers when you want to get them back in their cages; it's much easier to coax a rabbit into a cage than a carrier. Try calling Douglas and Andrew's names and offering them a treat once they've gone inside.

You'll be surprised how much you enjoy having them up there and interacting with you more; they'll become more socialized and you'll also have an easier go of allowing them their out-of-cage run around time.

***UPDATE from Nancy 2/18/2010***
I wanted to give you an update and thank you for your very sound advice. Douglas and Andrew moved into our back hall in a large dog crate last week. They have supervised reign of our kitchen when we’re home and they seem so very happy with the new set up. I can’t tell you how much fun it is for me to sit on the floor and have my coffee with them in the morning. So, thanks very much for your suggestion of moving them upstairs, we’re all a lot happier (Douglas hardly squeaks at me anymore – just a tiny bit if he doesn’t want his cheeks rubbed or he’s scared). Now on to training them to go into their cage upon command!

Hoppy Holidays from The Rabbit Advocate

2009-12-29T21:42:00.007-05:00

My good friends Kelly and Eric adopted Bunnicula from the Boston MSPCA about two years ago. She is a prime example of the underestimated tenacious, comical and entertaining side of rabbits.
Hope you enjoy as much as I did, and hope you all have a hoppy New Years!

Health Special: Malocclusion in Rabbits

2009-11-12T17:13:00.013-05:00

Malocclusion, referring to the misalignment of teeth, is a common ailment of the house rabbit. As with dogs bred to have “cute” smushed-in faces, certain breeds of rabbit, like the dwarf varieties, are especially prone to congenital deformities of the mouth. What makes malocclusion so serious for bunnies, however, is that rabbit teeth grow continuously. Normally, their teeth match up perfectly, so they’re kept ground down by the action of chewing. (Just one more reason giving your rabbit unlimited hay is so important!) Since maloccluded incisors don't match up, the teeth don’t file down and instead continue growing endlessly. As the incisors become overgrown, eating and drinking become harder and harder for the rabbit, all the while causing significant discomfort inside and outside the mouth as the teeth grow into the roof of the mouth and dig into the surrounding skin of the face. Untreated, this malformation can cause a slow and painful death.

Some medical professionals recommend trimming or grinding down the teeth every two months or so, but this can be uncomfortable, stressful, even dangerous if, during a trimming, the teeth accidentally shatter. Periodic trimmings and grindings can be extremely expensive too, especially when performed under anesthesia. All these factors considered, rabbits with maloccluded teeth are sadly euthanized all too often; the constant upkeep is overwhelming and too much for some to handle.

Recently, a rabbit with malocclusion and severely overgrown incisors arrived at the local shelter. The shelter vet suggested euthanasia and the shelter manager agreed after noting the considerable extra effort that comes with finding homes for special needs animals at an overcrowded, financially stressed shelter.

I, on the other hand, wasn’t ready to give up that easily. After consulting with some fellow rabbit experts at House Rabbit Network, I learned that there was another option: extraction. It seemed simple enough—the defective six front teeth would be removed, and after the mouth healed, he would learn to use his lips to pick up food and use the rest of his 22 teeth for chewing purposes. I spoke with a fantastic veterinarian at the VCA Wakefield Animal Hospital who explained that the surgery was relatively straightforward and inexpensive (she quoted $30 for the extraction procedure, though this price didn't include the cost of anesthesia or other drugs), the recovery was minimal, and, she said, the rabbit would be as good as new when it was over. In fact, he would even have a slight advantage over rabbits looking for homes—with no front teeth, rabbit-proofing would be a breeze!

I immediately brought the rabbit, who I had named Charley, home. He was severely underweight and malnourished from weeks of eating difficulties, so I spent a couple days feeding him a high-calorie, high-fiber, easy-to-chew diet, which included Critical Care, oatmeal, canned pumpkin, vegetable medley baby food, chopped strawberries, collard greens and cilantro, and even timothy hay broken into small, bite-sized bits. He chowed down for two days straight, and proved his will to live by bouncing all over my house and spending hours sleeping in my lap. Fortunately, House Rabbit Network had offered to foot the bill for the surgery, so after he had regained some strength, we were ready. On an early Wednesday morning, we drove up to Wakefield and Charley had his six front teeth pulled (he was also neutered at the same time). I picked him up that evening, and he was, though drugged, already acting a little feisty. By the next morning, he was eating Critical Care and pumpkin mush and three days later was eating entire bowls of pellets, chopped up greens, and even his hay.

He’s now a happy, rambunctious little guy, and might I add, perfectly adoptable. I hope this story inspires other owners and shelters with rabbits with dental problems to consider this alternative. As Charley sprints around my living room like a maniac, I can say with full confidence, that incisor extraction is a fantastically helpful surgery, a procedure we would both recommend to anyone.

Charley Before

Charley After

Join The Rabbit Advocate on Facebook

2009-11-11T22:20:00.003-05:00

The Rabbit Advocate now has a group page on Facebook. If you like reading the blog, jump on the bunnywagon and join me there!

Charcoal Bunny's Legacy

2009-10-20T08:32:00.002-04:00

In memoriam of a very special rabbit and Rabbit Advocate friend, Charcoal, who passed away in September 2009

Although shy, Charcoal brought [Jake and I] both a great deal of love and truly meant the world to us. We adopted him together, but I really saw Jake develop a love for Charcoal (and eventually a love for animals). Charcoal was my first personal relationship with a bunny, and he was the reason I began working with the bunnies at the city shelter. He instigated a great deal of good in our lives and the lives of other shelter buns. Charcoal was in that classic "hard to adopt" category: black, older, shy. But for us, he was the most perfect bunny ever.

~Mallory C. (and Jake B.), New York City, NY

In honor of Charcoal's memory, we have started a fundraiser for Bunny Magic, a 501(c)3 shelter and sanctuary for over 150 domestic rabbits in southern Maryland. Run by and paid for almost entirely by two volunteers, Bunny Magic takes in eleventh hour rabbits from shelters in Maryland and Virginia--rabbits who would otherwise have been euthanized due to space restrictions or behavioral/medical problems. They find loving, indoor homes for these bunnies, educate the public, and provide permanent sanctuary for those who are not able to be adopted out.

We hope that in his death, as he did in his life, Charcoal will continue inspiring people to help homeless animals. Please consider donating $5, $10, $20, $50 or more-- any amount is greatly appreciated. Checks can be made out to Bunny Magic Rabbit Rescue and sent to 1309 Tongue Cove Drive, Lusby, MD 20657. Note that your donations are tax-deductible. Please email me with any questions you may have. And thank you in advance for your compassion and generosity.

Best buds: Charcoal lounging with Cipher.

Question from the Audience: Paw Flicking

2009-06-14T18:50:00.001-04:00

A question from Elsie C. in Manchester, UK:

Q: My one year old house rabbit keeps flicking his front paws, one at a time. It is a kind of flick/shake. Any idea why? He is also quieter than normal instead of running around.

A: Rabbits usually flick their paws right before they plan to groom their faces or ears. Is he flicking his paws for a few seconds and then grooming himself? Is so, that is absolutely fine. If he is just flicking his paws repeatedly, then it would be worth it to have a closer look at his paws (is there something stuck to them? does he have a splinter or something of the sort? are they hurting? are they numb? do his nails need to be trimmed/getting caught in the carpet?). If you can't determine anything off about his paws, it might be a good idea to have a vet take a closer look at them.

I'd actually be more worried about him being "quieter than normal." Rabbits, being prey animals, really work to hide their symptoms. Once a rabbit is exhibiting unusual behaviors, you really want to pay close attention. Is he eating the same amount? Bathroom behaviors changed/droppings look the same? Acting depressed? Listless? If you said yes to any of these four questions, then don't wait to make an appointment with a rabbit-savvy veterinarian. These are surefire signs something is not right with your bunny, and when it's reached a stage with any of these symptoms, things can go very fast.

A Free and Easy Way to Help a Shelter Bunny

2009-06-08T18:36:00.004-04:00

One thing that always arrives with summer is the appearance of farmer's markets. And one thing that always comes with farmer's markets are leftovers! Ask a vegetable stand at your farmer's market about donating their unsold veggies, scraps, or even unusable parts (carrot, radish, beet tops) to your local shelter's rabbits. All you have to do is transport the goods to the shelter, as often as you like. It's an easy way to give a shelter bunny a healthy meal for free. Make sure to relay which veggies are okay, and which to avoid (ie tomatoes, beans, potatoes, rhubarb; and use carrots, bananas, (anything with high sugar) sparingly).

Atlas Farms has been donating their delicious organic vegetables to the Boston MSPCA for a few weeks, and it's turning out great for everyone involved. See pictures below for proof! (All of these bunnies are available for adoption through the Boston MSPCA; click on their names for additional information.)

Miss Bunny

Oreo

Dottie

Eddie

Neil

Sneezy

Chris

Barney

Wabbit

Cheesey

Piper & Widget (Guinea pigs need greens too!)

Another idea: If you're baking/cooking with strawberries and have a ton of strawberry tops, save them in an airtight container and take them to your shelter. Strawberry tops make for a delicious treat!

Thanks for thinking of helping out a shelter or rescue in your area!

Health Special: New Developments in the Treatment of Facial Abscesses in Rabbits

2009-06-01T11:54:00.011-04:00

When a bunny at the local shelter recently came in with a large abscess on his jaw, the shelter staff and I did our best to give him a fighting chance. He was underweight, with thin, scruffy fur, and the right side of his face--where a marble-sized abscess had grown--looked twice the size of his left. It was unknown, but suspected, that the infection had reached the root of his back teeth.

With the shelter's limited resources, and an uncertain outcome, (facial abscesses are difficult to eradicate surgically, especially if the infection has reached the bone) the very hard decision was made to euthanize the rabbit. He was in unimaginable agony and the veterinary staff didn't think his chances were good enough to subject him to further pain.

In my disillusionment with the decision to euthanize, I began researching facial abscesses online and found a wealth of information on a seemingly promising alternative treatment. The process, which was first discovered and written about by Marcy E. Rosenfield in the 1990s, describes how long-term use of injectable Bicillin can effectively treat abscesses in rabbits, virtually eliminating and eradicating the infection. I was surprised to learn that these simple subcutaneous injections were not only much less invasive, and very low-cost, but that they were even more effective than the standard practice of surgery alone. While the injections show greatest success when combined with surgery, they've shown marked success without as well, which course can be employed especially in cases where surgery is not medically or financially viable. For shelters with limited resources, i.e. no money for surgery, Bicillin injections offer a ray of hope. And it's a very big ray too.

While the success of the treatment is indubitably affected by whether or not the infection has reached the bone, the Bicillin (Penicillin G is currently preferred over Bicillin) treatments still show notable success in either case. The treatments have demonstrated the ability to successfully halt the rate of recurrence, prompting eradication of facial abscesses to no longer be viewed on par with cancers.

Make sure to read Marcy Rosenfield's study for details and background information and note the importance of investigating the underlying cause of the infection. Dental work may be helpful in certain cases.

Below I have included selected testimonials about Bicillin/PenG use from House Rabbit Society and House Rabbit Network Educators. You can also check out the testimonials previously gathered by Marcy Rosenfield.

Testimonials

In 2003, my minirex Lewis had a walnut sized jaw abscess that we treated with PenG injections, after multiple surgeries and other antibiotics had been unsuccessful. It was a pretty extensive infection, spreading to his face and nose, with demineralization of the jaw bone. I gave him daily sub-q injections for two weeks, followed by injections every other day for two months. The abscess cleared up completely and never returned, and he lived for another five years. So yes, it really can work.
-- Diane M., HRN Educator

My experience is with just one rabbit. She had a jaw abscess on two occasions, and both times they went away with Bicillin alone. One took a few weeks; the other several months. In both cases, the abscesses were not causing any problems, so we had the luxury of time.
-- Amy Spintman, Educator, San Diego HRS

In my experience, [Bicillin] can work very well, especially if the infection is not in the bone. The biggest plus is that Bicillin/Duplocillin is dirt cheap.
--Dana Krempels, HRS Educator

I don't ever give up on a rabbit with an abscess since Bipen [alternate name for Bicillin] emerged. If you have ever read "Rabbits, Gentle Hearts, Valient Spirits," you may have encountered "Buddy's Story," about a rabbit we had at Colorado HRS. He was initially in my care. He had a softball sized jaw abscess, along with other problems. Buddy lived several years after his treatment. In his case, I doubled the dose recommended (with medical approval) and treated about 6 months or so. Bipen is amazing. And, cheap!
--Bea LeNoir, Co-Chapter Manager, Colorado HRS

Ultimately, you should keep in mind that house rabbit ownership has exploded in recent years, and accordingly, breakthroughs in rabbit medicine are still forthcoming. Oftentimes the advances are still evolving and under revision, which means that not every veterinarian will possess all of the most up-to-date information possible, and we as responsible pet owners may even be required to step in and offer some findings of personal research. Don't be intimidated to relay your findings to your vet; it could end up saving your rabbit's life.

Are You Rabbit-Ready?

2009-05-12T20:01:00.004-04:00

So you're thinking about getting a rabbit... Great! Rabbits make terrific pets, but they do require some specialized care and attention. As with any pet, you're going to want to do some preliminary research to figure out beforehand exactly what you're getting yourself into. Rabbits can live 8-10 years and are not low-maintenance pets, so it's especially important to know the specifics of their care before bringing one into your home.

Some facts about house rabbits:

1. Rabbits eat a highly varied diet. While they can eat a small amount of pellets daily, they must have unlimited access to a fresh grass hay and an assortment of fresh vegetables. Feeding a rabbit is definitely not as simple as throwing some dog or cat food in a bowl every morning.

2. Rabbits need to be seen by a rabbit-experienced vet, which is usually termed as an "exotics" vet. Exotics vets can charge more than regular dog or cat vets, so rabbit health bills can add up. While rabbits do not need vaccinations, they should be seen at least once a year by a rabbit-savvy vet.

3. Rabbits should be housed indoors, and this creates the need for rabbit-proofing. You will need to purchase a large dog cage or x-pen in which to house the rabbit while you are away or sleeping. While you're around, you can let the bunny out to explore--but certain dangers, such as poisonous plants or materials, electrical wires, and expensive furniture, must be moved, covered up, or protected.

4. It's strongly recommended that your rabbit be spayed or neutered. This makes a huge difference in litter-training and in curbing various behavioral and health issues.

5. As aforementioned, and now should be evident, rabbits are not low-maintenance pets. They require specialized care, daily attention, and a considerable amount of supervision. Rabbits also do not make good "starter" pets for children, as they are highly sensitive physically and mentally.

Before acquiring a rabbit, strongly consider all the factors. And if you do decide to get one, always adopt from a shelter or rescue--never buy from a petstore!

The Easter Bunny's Important Message

2009-04-04T10:34:00.001-04:00

Every year, around June and July, animal shelters around the country are seemingly instantly flooded with rabbits that are no longer wanted. Countless well-meaning families buy cute baby bunnies as Easter presents for the children, only to realize a few months down the line what complex creatures these are, what complex care they require, and what a bad combination a skittish, unneutered rabbit and a rambunctious child can be. Read this article on why rabbits don't always do so well with children and vice versa and read here about the importance of spaying and neutering.

Buying a rabbit as an Easter present is a time-tested bad idea. Sure, baby bunnies are ridiculously adorable, but they also require a varied diet, not inexpensive vet care, a spay/neuter surgery, daily attention and playtime, and intricate rabbit-proofing (which in turn requires a watchful eye and sometimes infinite patience). Rabbits are excellent pets, but only in the right circumstances, which includes knowing full-well what you're getting into. And if you've done the research and still think you're ready to get a rabbit, don't ever buy from a pet store! Instead adopt from a shelter or a rescue and save a life!

Buy a toy rabbit for Easter-- adopt a real rabbit for life!

Question from the Audience: Hiccups?

2009-04-01T16:22:00.003-04:00

A question from Travis J. in Long Island, NY:
Q: I have a 5 year old Dwarf Rabbit. She is in great health- she is spayed, has a healthy diet and goes in regularly for check ups with her exceptional vet. Every so often, usually after jumping out of the cage and running around a bit, when she sits down or relaxes for a moment- she begins to twitch (her entire body). It looks similar to when someone has the hiccups. Its usually about 10 twitches lasting about 15 seconds. If I walk to her and pet her during the twitches, she stops twitching. Sometimes she will continue twitching the moment I take my hand off of her. Have you ever heard of this?

A: You correctly identified this weird twitching behavior as hiccups, although it is strange because when a hiccuping rabbit is touched, she does stop twitching (suggesting the behavior is voluntary to a certain degree). It can be scary to see, especially the first few times, because it looks somewhat painful or like a seizure, but it's just regular old hiccups.

As usual, make sure your rabbit is eating and drinking normally, in case the hiccups are being caused by disturbances in the GI tract. Other than that, it's most likely nothing to be worried about!

A Reflective Look at the Importance of Adoption and Spaying & Neutering

2009-03-21T17:50:00.004-04:00

Here is a poem by House Rabbit Society Educator Amy Espie that is a poignant reminder of the importance of spaying and neutering our pets and adoption instead of purchasing animals from breeders, pet stores, etc.

Saying Goodbye Every Day by Amy Espie

Sunday. A friend and I take our dogs for a run
in the park. The late-afternoon sunlight is
pure gold, and a fresh breeze rustles the tall
grass. A family approaches us on the trail: a
man, woman, and two small boys. They are
accompanied by a large tan dog with the
distended nipples of motherhood and an adorable
pup who looks just like his mom. The pup
pesters his mom, taking five steps for every
one of hers. She patiently tolerates his
rambunctiousness.

It's a heartwarming scene that totally
depresses me.

What has happened to me? I love dogs. I love
puppies. And yet the sight of puppies makes me
sad. Every time I see or hear of a litter of
kittens or pups, I also see cages full of
homeless ones and the bins full of dead ones at
the shelter where I work.

Monday. It's 8 PM, time to go home. I walk past
the cages in the Stray Cat Room. A calico cat
and her two kittens sit quietly on the shelf in
their cage. The mother grooms one of the
kittens. A pink card attached to the cage tells
me it's time to say goodby to these three. I
feel the familiar mixture of sadness, anger,
and bitterness.

A huddled gray ball of fur in an adjoining cage
catches my eye. In the farthest corner of her
cage, a bedraggled cat hides her head under a
sheet of newspaper. I peer between the bars.
"Hi, Kitty," I say softly. "Are you totally
miserable? I don't blame you." I chatter on,
more for my own benefit than for hers. I put
some treats into her bowl and leave.

Tuesday. A small, frightened black rabbit is
rescued from a cellar by one of our Humane
Officers. That evening she gives birth to five
babies. Four days later, when her stray period
is up, the babies are injected with sodium
pentobarbital. A few seconds later, they are
dead. The mother is put up for adoption.

Gray Cat clings to her corner, still facing the
wall. I notice that she's eaten the treats I
left, which encourages me. I talk to her again.
"I know it's hard to believe, but actually
you're pretty lucky. Decent food, a clean
litterbox, people who care about you; and, with
a little luck, one special person to appreciate
and adore you forever." Gray Cat is not
impressed.

Wednesday. I talk to the people in my
dog-training class about spaying and neutering.
"Of the ten million dogs and cats who are
killed every year at animal shelters in the US,
nearly three million are purebreds," I explain.
"And the other seven million had a purebred in
their very recent past. Stand at our front
counter any day of the week and you will hear
the same stories again and again: 'We're
moving'; 'The landlord says no'; 'He barks and
the neighbors called the cops on us'; 'She
messes in the house.' An expensive dog with a
behavior problem is just as disposable as an
all-American mutt.

"Spend a day at the shelter and you'll also
hear the repertoire of reasons people give for
not having their animals spayed or neutered:
'We want the children to experience the miracle
of birth'; 'Neutering is unnatural'; 'It's
cruel'; "I wouldn't want anyone to do it to
me'; 'My cat is from champion stock'; 'We've
already got homes lined up for all the babies.'
But try to explain these reasons to a loving,
beautiful animal (or even an ill-tempered,
homely one) whose time is up, who is receiving
a death sentence when his only crime is that
some human let him be born instead of facing
the reality of the overpopulation disaster.
I've never heard a rationalization that didn't
fade into nothing in the face of even one
death."

On my way out, I stop at Gray Cat's cage again.
"Hi, Gray C. Still memorizing that bit of wall,
I see." A miracle! She turns and looks at me.
Her emerald eyes size me up. Maybe I'm being
too optimistic, but she seems a little less
frightened, her body a shade more relaxed.
"Listen," I tell her, "you've probably met some
pretty unevolved humans out there. We're not
all like that. Give us another chance, okay?"
She blinks dubiously. This is progress.

Thursday. The animal care technicians at the
shelter are the bravest people in the world. I
watch them scrub kennels and clean litterboxes.
I see them take a moment to play with a kitten
or hold a lonely pup. I hear them calm the
frightened ones with a gentle word. And every
now and then I force myself to witness what
they must face every day. That same dog who
they cared for, petted, and talked to must
finally be given the only thing we have left to
offer: a gentle, respectful death. What have we
come to when the best we can do is to kill them
kindly?

Jim puts a leash on the Labrador retriever. She
cowers in the back of the kennel, tail between
her legs. He tugs on the leash. She whimpers
and crouches down lower. He kneels beside her.
"It's okay, pup. Don't be scared." She stops
whimpering but won't move. He scoops her up in
his arms and carries her to the Euthanasia
Room. She's been at the shelter for two weeks.
She's so frightened that all she does is lie in
the corner. No one wants her. Now she will die.
Carol holds her while Jim shaves a small patch
of fur from her leg. She is quiet and
trembling. Jim continues to talk to her. He
gives her the injection. She slumps onto the
table. Carol carries her body to the Chill Room
and adds it to the pile.

In the Cat Room, Gray Cat is sitting in her
usual corner, but she's not facing the wall
today. The room is noisy. Adorable kittens fill
row upon row of cages. Friendly adult cats come
forward, asking for attention. I open her cage
to give her a treat. "It isn't fair," I tell
her. "You have every right to distrust people,
but if you don't act adoptable, how can you
compete with all these other cats?" I reach my
hand closer to her. I touch her. She lets me! I
thank her.

Friday. At home, a veterinary clinic calls me
to find out if I have room for another
unwanted. The owners brought a young mini-lop
in to be euthanized. Why? They're moving out of
state. They don't want to take the rabbit. They
haven't found any friend who will take him, and
they don't want "a bunch of strangers" coming
to their house to see the rabbit.

When I get to work, Gray C. is not in her cage.
I look everywhere. I try not to be too hopeful.
I tell myself, Don't pursue it. I ignore my own
good advice. I go to the Chill Room. She is
there, in one of the bins, her body curled up
against that of a terrier. I touch her, for the
second and last time. Her body is getting cold.
She is gone. I mourn her. But who will mourn
the calico kitten underneath her, and the
angora rabbit in the next bin? Who will mourn
all ten million of them, one by one?

Please remember this poem the next time you think of buying that cute little puppy/kitten/bunny at the pet store. Adopting means saving a life!

The Importance of a Positive Meeting

2009-03-08T13:02:00.009-04:00

Initial interactions are crucial in establishing a rapport with your house rabbit or a bunny you're meeting for the first time. Because many people instinctively approach a rabbit as they would a cat or a dog--by placing a hand right in front of their noses for them to sniff--they are getting started off on the wrong foot, er, paw. As polite of an animal introduction as this would seem, rabbits are actually offended by this gesture, mostly due to their limited vision in front of their faces. Such offensive gestures often elicit fearful or aggressive responses, which leads the human to dismiss the rabbit as unfriendly, jumpy, or a bad pet. Instead, try coming down from the top and petting her forehead or scratching behind the ears. Or, you can even do as the rabbits do, and get down on their level and touch noses. With only your head in their field of vision, you suddenly don't seem so large and intimidating.

The differences between interacting with dogs/cats and rabbits don't stop there. While most dogs and cats love belly rubs, the stomach area is an exceptionally sensitive area for rabbits and very much off-limits. This makes sense considering as prey animals they must fiercely protect such vulnerable areas, whereas predatory pets--like cats, dogs, or even ferrets --might not be so sensitive about vital areas. Rabbits also prefer not to be touched on their paws, chin, chest, sides, tail, and genital region. But this is not to say that rabbits don't love being pet; they very much do! Spots that are just about universally enjoyed by rabbits include the top of her head, cheeks, ears, neck, shoulders, and back, though of course every rabbit is different. Try a nice relaxing massage for your bunny: move your hand slowly, with the an open palm, from the nose, over the forehead, over the ears and neck, and all the way down to the lower back, applying the slightest bit of pressure. Continue down both sides of the spine gently, but without applying direct pressure on the backbone, and note which spots she seems to particularly enjoy and which seem to be less than pleasant (if she stiffens). Repeat over the areas she seems to like. Most rabbits will flatten down, close their eyes, and even grind their teeth in ecstasy.

Positive interactions can set the tone for how a rabbit views you--whether she learns to trust you or avoid you. Conversely, it can also affect how a person will view a rabbit, or even rabbits as a species. A miscommunication during introductions can lead a human to fear rabbits or view them as unpredictable or aggressive creatures. And we, as devoted rabbit owners, know just how inaccurate this assessment can be, as long as we learn to communicate with them on their own terms and in their own language.

Question from the Audience: Blood in the Urine?

2009-03-05T21:47:00.002-05:00

A question from Trish M. in Marion, OH:
Q: I am noticing that when I change my rabbits' litterboxes that there is a brownish tinge to it, almost looks like old blood, but I am wondering if this is due to the urine and pebbles mixing or if it could be something else? Does this sound familiar? I put down newspaper and pine chips, but then it has a grate over that so they don't get to the chips or anything. Any suggestions?

A: While it can be very troubling to see little puddles of dark reddish urine in your rabbits' litterbox, this is not necessarily anything worry about. Certain vegetable pigments can turn a rabbit's urine to a bright red, dark brown or even a dark yellow color. However, if the change in urine color is accompanied by a change in litterbox habits, a change in behavior (acting sluggish or depressed), or a change in dietary habits, then a vet visit is definitely warranted. A veterinarian can test for the presence of blood in the urine and check for kidney disease, reproductive cancers, etc.

On a sidenote, you do mention that you use pine chips as the litter. Despite the prevalence and availability of these litters in pet stores, pine chips and other wood shavings have been shown to cause liver damage in rabbits. Switch to a pelleted paper litter, such as Yesterday's News and add a generous layer of timothy hay on top. (Yesterday's News, while being perfectly safe, also has unbeatable absorbency, odor control, and is environmentally friendly as it's made from recycled newspapers). The good news is that any sustained liver damage from the shavings can clear up once the litter is switched. And with using a safe litter, you'll no longer need a grate to cover the ever-so-fun-to-dig-in litterbox.

Question from the Audience: One or Two?

2009-02-17T23:21:00.007-05:00

A question from Suzanna C. in Tampa, FL:
Q: I am thinking about adopting a pet bunny. I have been thinking and reading a lot about pet rabbits and now I'm fairly convinced that they would make ideal pets in my life right now. I just don't know if I should get one bunny or a bonded pair (of course neutered/spayed). We work full time so would be gone most of the day. My only concern with a bonded pair is that I don't know how affectionate they will be to us humans. What do you recommend?

A: It's great to hear that you're doing thorough research about rabbits before you adopt. Being completely aware of what to expect, knowing what you're getting into, and planning accordingly may be one of the most important steps in fostering a positive petcare situation.

As I frequently mention, rabbits are social animals. They are happiest in the company of others and since they are more occupied when in pairs, they're less likely to be destructive or get into trouble. Pairs also help groom each other, making for cleaner, healthier pets. And since you mentioned that you're gone for most of the day, I would especially recommend adopting a bonded pair. Pairs keep each other company while you're gone, and are therefore less bored and more happy!

Don't worry, it's not much extra care or effort to own two rather than one: a bonded pair can use the same cage, same litterbox, same food and water bowls, etc.

It's not uncommon to wonder whether or not a bonded bunny will like you the same way as a single bunny will. People often ask if their relationship with their single bunny will change once they get a second rabbit. However, because I've noticed that the relationship rabbits have with humans is separate from the one they have with each other, their status should really have no bearing on how they view you. Overall, the notion that the more attention you invest, the more attention you get back rings true regardless of how many rabbit friends are involved.

I recommend visiting some bonded pairs at a nearby rescue or shelter and seeing how you get along with them. Like all animals, rabbits have distinct personalities, unrelated to who they're already bonded with. All in all, bonded bunnies can be just as affectionate as single ones, and they'll sure appreciate having each other to snuggle with while you're gone during the day!

Introducing a Fantastic New Service for Rabbit Owners in the Greater Boston Area...

2009-02-10T21:11:00.004-05:00

StressLess Groomers is a brand new in-home nail cutting service for rabbits in the greater Boston area. It was conceived after my good friend and MSPCA volunteer, Kelly, and I made several bunny nail-trimming visits to a few of our friends' houses. We realized some people weren't able to trim their rabbit's nails themselves, and some people just didn't want to impose the stress on their rabbit. Some were especially concerned with the stress of travel, and others were worried they would injure the rabbit. And that's where an in-home service like StressLess Groomers can come in handy!

Check out the website www.stresslessgroomers.com for rates, appointment times, covered areas, testimonials, and more. If you have any questions, or would like to make an appointment, email us at stresslessgroomers@gmail.com.

Petfinder Love

2009-02-09T21:46:00.003-05:00

The incredible Petfinder, an online tool that allows users to search for adoptable animals in their geographic area by breed, age, and gender, mentioned The Rabbit Advocate in a recent blog post. Thank you to Petfinder for serving homeless and rescued animals and continuing to help educate the public!

The Rabbit Advocate Info Day Was a Success!

2009-02-07T21:09:00.004-05:00

Thank you to all those who came out for the 1st Annual Rabbit Advocate Info Day! We had a great time, met some awesome people, raised a little money for the Boston MSPCA, and got Tiny, Fluffy, and Thumper a little adoption exposure! Special thanks to Especially for Pets for their generosity, consideration, and dedication to educating the public about all types of animals.

Thumper and Fluffy being charming, as usual

Tiny makes a new friend

Fluffy getting some bunny love

The Essentials: Health Care Overview

2009-02-05T22:52:00.003-05:00

A good owner should constantly be aware of any changes in their rabbit's behavior and digestive habits, as differences in these areas are the most telling about overall health. Symptoms that rabbits exhibit are subtle; acting lethargic or suddenly disinterested is a sign of trouble, while anorexia and changes in droppings and urinary habits are surefire signs of medical problems. A rabbit in pain will lie with its extremities pulled in tightly, eyes half-shut, will want to be left alone, and sometimes grind its teeth in pain. If your rabbit is acting this way, seek immediate medical assistance.

Rabbits should get a thorough look-over about once a month to make sure everything is running smoothly, though preventative care is key to keeping your rabbit happy and healthy.

Grooming
Different breeds have different grooming needs. Angoras and other long-haired breeds require daily grooming, while most short-hair breeds need just a weekly to biweekly brushing. During molts, increase the grooming frequency and make sure to remove loose fur so that the rabbit does not ingest too much of it.

Rabbits should get their nails clipped once every two months. You should also check their teeth, eyes, nose, and ears for any abnormalities or changes, and look over their bodies for any signs of lumps, abscesses, infection, scrapes, or parasites. Approximately every two-three months, you should check the genital area to see if the scent glands need to be cleaned.

Diet
Feeding your rabbit a healthy, balanced diet can eliminate many of the health problems domestic rabbits face. Offer unlimited hay, a variety of vegetables, and a restricted amount of pellets, about 1/8 cup per 4 lbs of rabbit. Rabbits have highly sensitive digestive tracts, so monitor their intake and output very carefully and note any changes. As aforementioned, abberations in this area are the largest indicators of a serious medical problem.

Spay/Neuter
Spaying and neutering is an essential part of rabbit health care. The surgery eliminates a variety of health problems and adds years to a rabbit's life.

Rabbit-Proofing
Make sure to clean your bunny's litterbox and food and water bowls frequently, providing clean, fresh water on a daily basis. Rabbits should be housed indoors to ensure they remain physically and mentally healthy. Inside, watch out for poisonous plants, electrical cords, lead-tainted paint. During the summer months, pay close attention to the temperature in your house, as temperatures above 85 ºF can be disastrous to a rabbit's health.

The more you bond with your bunny, the sooner you'll be able to detect changes that may indicate a medical problem. In the case of rabbit health care, love just might be the best medicine.

Question from the Audience: Fur Loss

2009-02-03T21:48:00.001-05:00

A question from Adam B. and Maggie H. of Boston, MA:

Q: We successfully adopted Gus, previously Murphs, from the MSPCA a few months ago, and have been having a great time with him ever since! There is one thing we have noticed recently: in front of his ears on the top of his head, and right behind the base of his neck, he has some patches of shorter hair. The skin looks fine underneath and he doesn't mind us touching them, is there anything to be worried about? He stayed with a friend in VT for a few weeks and she had a black lab pup, but they always interacted well. Could it be that he lost the hair there from stress? Or did we just not notice this short patches before?

Family Photo with Adam, Maggie, and Gus, formerly known as Murphs

A: Rabbits do stress shed, like dogs and cats, but it sounds to me like Gus is probably just going through his semi-annual molt. During a molt, which can last for varying periods of time, rabbits lose a lot of fur, and it can often fall out in clumps, creating bald spots or spots with very short fur. It really isn't anything to worry about.

During a molting period, make sure you brush Gus frequently or remove his loose fur by hand, so he doesn't ingest too much of it, as rabbits can get hair ball blockage in their GI tracts that requires surgery. (Rabbit's cannot throw up, like cats can, to expel hairballs.) Especially during a molt, make sure he is eating a good amount of Timothy hay and drinking plenty of water; the fiber in the hay and the moisture in the water will keep the fur moving out of his system.

You definitely want to be concerned if the area includes dry flaky patches, red irritated skin, open sores, or if he seems to be constantly scratching at it. These symptoms could indicate parasitic infection, like mange or ear mites, and he should be checked out by a veterinarian for treatment. But since Gus isn't presenting with any of these signs, it's sounds like all he needs is a thorough brushing.

Gus making an eat.

Question from the Audience: A mean bunny?

2009-01-27T23:22:00.001-05:00

A question from Emily V. in Portland, OR.

Q: I have a lop eared bunny that I can only classify as "mean." I'm sure there is something that I could be doing to improve her behavior, but for the life of me I can't figure it out. We bought Bella from a farm where she had been stuck in a cage in a barn in some extreme heat for a couple weeks. We took her home and set her up in our guest bedroom. After she got mostly potty trained and met our two dogs (whom she adores!) we moved her out to the main living area where she got to spend most of the day running around the house, playing with the dogs. But she has never been nice to us humans.

I've read everything I can find on bunny behavior, I clean her cage when she leaves it on her own free will, she has an endless supply of food and timothy hay and she gets to run around all day. She gets carrot tops, radishes and every once in awhile, apple bits. I've sat on the floor and let her come to me. I stay still and ignore her like all the books say. And then she bites me for no reason! I shriek to tell her that hurts and she'll lunge at me again. Then, I'll get up to remove myself and she actually chases me around the house trying to bite me. I've worked with her for months to improve this behavior and nothing seems to work. I finally figured that she just wanted nothing to do with us humans and we should leave her alone.

I didn't want her to be stuck in her cage all day, but I couldn't let her run around the house biting me all day either. We set her up with a bunny run area in the garage where she has access to her cage, all her toys and a lot of running room, but she seems to only be grumpier. When I enter the pen area to clean it, she charges me and my little hand broom. I'm getting to the point where I'm pretty scared of her. Do you have any suggestions for what I can try? I don't want Bella to be unhappy, but I don't know what to do anymore!

A: I commend you for being so patient, understanding and accommodating with your difficult bunny, and for researching ways to improve the situation. No bunny is born mean, but rabbits do have varying personalities. These personalities are further shaped by experiences. It sounds like Bella may have had some negative human encounters early on, so we can't blame her for her behavior. It also sounds like some of her originally positive traits, such as friendliness, confidence and assertiveness, have been shaped by her environment into their negative counterparts-- aggressiveness and other characteristics interpreted by you as "mean." We need to reprogram, or re-mold her behavior to extract the friendly-bold version of her instead of the aggressive-bold variety. We also need to reinstate your presence as a positive association.

Positive connotations
In the garage, Bella will never develop a trust of humans, as she is too isolated, so move her back into the living room. Set up an exercise pen that encompasses her cage and a sizable play area; this way, you don't have to worry about her chasing you around. Initially, practice coming near her play area (I suggest sitting on the outside of it) and giving her treats, like apple bits or a stalk of cilantro, through the gate. When you give her greens in the morning, sit by the gate and hand them to her one at a time. Make her associate only good things with you; we're reprogramming her brain to view you as a positive presence. Gradually, you can enter the gated area. Wear protective gear, such as gloves, for your safety, and so you won't be jerking away and only further scaring her. (If she attacks your feet, wear shoes, thick pants, etc.)

Communication
Squealing at her bites doesn't seem to be working. Some bunnies, who instead of "getting" that nipping hurts you, become offended at your squeals. This in turn provokes further aggression. Likewise, ignoring her isn't achieving the desired effect either. While many bunny behaviorists do recommend ignoring a bunny during initial interactions, this is most helpful for shy rabbits who might be threatened by your movements. Because Bella seems very outgoing and friendly (she loves playing with the dogs), she may actually be biting in an attempt to get attention from you. (Note that nibbling is an inoffensive way rabbits communicate with each other.) So shower her with head pats, ear scratches and cheek rubs whenever you're near her, and you may be surprised to find that that's all she's wanted. If she seems agitated at first, start petting the top of her head, in a confident way, using your entire palm and pressing down just a slight bit--this action has a calming effect on rabbits.

Working with a problem bunny might seem like a lot of work, but these difficulties can be overcome. Gaining the trust of such a fragile creature can be trying, but that's what makes it so rewarding. Once Bella begins to trust you, I think you'll notice a real change in your interactions. Like with humans, communication is the key to a happy and healthy human-bunny relationship!

Question from the Audience: The New Bunny

2009-01-20T10:52:00.000-05:00

A question from Murat D. in Crangston, RI:

Q: We just bought a 7 month old, male, neutered lionhead rabbit yesterday. He is so scared from us because whenever I leave him to go out from the cage, he hits his legs on the floor strongly and never come near us. Can you tell me what to do in the first days of adopting a rabbit? Do we need to keep him in the cage all the time or stay near his cage? I really do not know what to do. Also when I want to put him back in the cage do I need to follow and catch him or wait for him to go by himself.

A: A new bunny is going to be terrified when it's first brought home and will probably need a few days to adjust. The thumping behavior is indicating that he feels scared and threatened. The best thing to do is leave him alone, and never force him out of his cage. After a few days, he should calm down a little. When he looks more relaxed, open the cage door and sit down next to his cage. You don't need to initiate any interaction with him; in fact, it's best if you just ignore him, and read a book or watch TV. Eventually, your rabbit will come out and explore the area, and ultimately approach you. When he does, let him sniff around and wait some time before petting his head and cheeks. The key is to let him approach you while you wait patiently.

Mental stimulation is crucial for keeping your bunny happy, so make sure your bunny is getting plenty of daily free time out of his cage. As for getting him back in his cage, don't chase him in. Try using a treat (a raisin, a piece of banana, apple, a stalk of cilantro, or a commercial rabbit treat like Yogurt Drops) to lure him back. Or try to work feedings around the time you need to get him back in his cage. If you're having trouble, you can try "herding" him in, but it's not a good idea to pick him up and physically put him in his cage. For further advice on interacting with your pet rabbit, read "Holding and Aggression" and "The Essentials: Approach," which outline how various human behaviors can be interpreted by your bunny.

Question from the Audience: Bunny Slipper Love... The Importance of Spaying and Neutering

2009-01-17T16:19:00.003-05:00

A question from Katie R. in Boston, MA:
Q: I have a male newfoundland dwarf bunny, Max. I was away this weekend and my brother took care of him. Anyway we got back to my apartment and an hour after returning home, he basically showed obviously signs he's "in heat" and has countless times tried to initiate sexual relations with my bunny slippers. Been following me around my apartment trying to get whatever he can. I've had him since July 08 and this is the first time I've seen him do this before. Any suggestions?

The Victims

A: Congratulations! Max is becoming a man. Or at least, he's reached sexual maturity. The cute, funny behaviors that he's displaying are only cute and funny the first few times. Then, they get annoying quickly, and you'll soon start noticing behaviors that are by nobody's definition cute nor funny. While some behaviors, like territorial marking, are a hassle to clean up, other behaviors have far graver consequences. Max can and should get fixed at this point. Since the surgery is safe for males after 5 months (and safe for females after 6 months), you can go ahead with the procedure. Not convinced? Let's overview the benefits of getting your house rabbit spayed or neutered:

Health
Fixed rabbits live much longer lives as they avoid an array of health complications, such as various reproductive cancers and injuries from raging-hormone-induced fights or aggressive sexual behaviors among one another. An unspayed female has a 70-80% chance of developing uterine cancer; a refusal to spay is an almost certain death sentence.

Behavior
Rabbits that have been fixed are calmer and more relaxed; they are also much less aggressive. (I have a scar on my forearm to prove that even the nicest bunny can take a vicious chunk out of your arm in the heat of the moment!) Spaying and neutering also reduces destructive behaviors, especially in females who may be digging and destroying your furniture in an attempt to prepare for (real or imagined) pregnancies. Many behaviors that accompany an intact bunny--humping, circling and chasing--start off being cute, but quickly turn annoying and overwhelming, and sometimes even aggressive and dangerous.

Litterbox Training
It's notably easier to litterbox train a rabbit who's been fixed. Additionally, unneutered males (and females) will oftentimes spray urine, sometimes to shocking distances, in an effort to mark their territory. Such territorial marking becomes an overwhelming hassle to clean up day after day.

Friends
Once your rabbit is fixed, she can have as many friends as she likes. Rabbits are social animals and the majority of them thoroughly enjoy the company of other rabbits. However, until the surgery, it's dangerous to put two rabbits together, for fear of fighting and the overwhelming risk of pregnancies.

Overpopulation
There's a good reason rabbits crop up in all sorts of saying about procreating--they reproduce with mind-blowing efficiency and in great quantities. Putting an unfixed male and female together will inevitably result in litter after litter of baby bunnies. With so many homeless rabbits waiting at shelters across the country, it just isn't right to introduce any more animals into the mix. Even if you somehow are able to find homes for the babies, those babies are taking the places of shelter rabbits who may be put down for lack of space.

The bottom line is that spayed and neutered rabbits simply make better pets. They are happier and more interested in bonding with their human companions once the undeniable and all-consuming urge to copulate is removed. With numerous behavioral problems and medical complications virtually eliminated, it makes sense to proceed with this safe and highly successful surgery. Get Max to a rabbit-experienced vet as soon as possible. With the irrefutable benefits, there's no way around it--it's the single best thing you can do for your pet, other rabbits, and you!

Question from the Audience: Eye Health

2009-01-12T19:50:00.000-05:00

A question from Michelle A. in Quincy, MA:
Q: Our rabbit is a Siamese, sable dwarf-chocolate brown 4 year old. Buddie is a great rabbit and eats a good balanced diet. Occasionally his right eye has a wet discharge and can be a bit goopy. I bath it w/clean warm water and it seems to clear up. Have you seen this before?

A: As with all health concerns, the wisest course of action is to see a rabbit-savvy vet to rule out any serious medical complications. While the discharge could be relatively harmless (allergies or a temporarily lodged particle), it could also indicate a more serious problem such as an infection, which would require antibiotics, a blocked tear duct or congenital defect which might require preventative or therapeutic treatment. Ocular discharge is a fairly frequent, and oftentimes innocuous, concern among rabbit owners, but it's best to be safe and get Buddie checked out. In the meantime, experiment with new types of litter and try shaking out his hay. Certain types of litter (see HRS's Litter Comparisons chart for specifics) can not only irritate the liver and respiratory system, but the eyes, nose, and mouth.

In the case that the discharge has a harmless source, be sure to check that the cheek area under the eye isn't perpetually wet and therefore becoming irritated. Continue wiping under his eye with a warm, damp washcloth and drying off with a soft paper towel. Conversely, consider adopting a buddy for Buddie-- pairs of rabbits groom each other and could counter some such skin problems.

A House Rabbit is a Happy Rabbit

2009-01-07T17:28:00.000-05:00

Up until relatively recently, most pet rabbits were relegated to backyards to be housed in wooden hutches. Now, we've realized how much these intelligent, humorous, and sensitive creatures (and we) benefit from their indoor residencies.

Health and Safety
Healthwise, indoor rabbits aren't faced with the same worries as their outdoor counterparts. Outdoor hutch rabbits have to contend with a variety of parasites, flies, and infections, not to mention prey animals, such as raccoons, domestic dogs, etc. Even if a hutch is physically secure, it's not enough—countless rabbits have died from shock or panic-induced injuries brought on by the mere presence of an outdoor predator.

Alongside predators and parasites, the outdoor elements pose significant risks. Heatstroke is one of the most relevant hazards, and it should come as no surprise considering the rabbit's inability to sweat, their permanent fur outfits, and elevated basal body temperatures (at around 102 ºF*). Outdoor (and indoor) temperatures of 85 ºF and above can be seriously devastating for rabbits; even if provided with fans, ice bottles, etc., such high temperatures are unbearably uncomfortable at best and deadly at their worst.

While comparatively less serious, cold weather poses its own variety of complications. Pneumonia and hypothermia (if the rabbit gets wet) are significant risks; and temperatures below freezing can (obviously) freeze the drinking water and cause dangerous dehydration.

In addition to the above mentioned health risks faced by outdoor bunnies, indoor rabbits are more carefully observed by their owners. Since rabbit illness symptoms are very subtle, (as to not alert prey to any weaknesses) a close relationship and acute awareness are vital to spotting changes in health and seeking prompt medical attention.

Exercise and Interaction
It's notably more difficult to provide an outdoor bunny with ample exercise. Whereas indoor rabbits can be allowed to roam around a room while you go about everyday activities, giving an outdoor bunny exercise requires the added effort of setting up an exercise pen and providing your undivided attention, and therefore will likely be neglected during busy times or in unpleasant weather conditions. With less out-of-cage time comes decreased mental stimulation and human interaction and increased boredom, destruction, and depression.

And with less interactive bonding time, you miss the opportunity to develop a profound and rewarding friendship. You also miss out the oftentimes hilarious and entertaining show that is a house rabbit: flying leaps, ninja kicks, head twitches, and over-flops!

Perspective
Sadly, outdoor rabbits tend to get thought of as objects in the backyard, instead of sentient beings with individual personalities and extensive emotional lives. Outdoor rabbits are often neglected and as a consequence revert to a wild-like state; their owners never realize the rabbit's capacity for love, friendship, and humor.

All in all, indoor rabbits live happier, healthier and longer lives. If you currently own an outdoor rabbit, strongly consider bringing her indoors. A former hutch rabbit can just as easily be trained to use a litterbox as any other rabbit. You'll be surprised at how well an indoor rabbit complements your life. A house rabbit makes for a happy rabbit, and a happy owner too!

Trixie happily considers the advantages of being a cozy,
indoor house rabbit.
(Photo courtesy of Linda M. in San Jose, CA.)

* Dawson, Bronwyn, DVM. "Dealing With Medical Emergencies." House Rabbit Society.

Question from the Audience: Cage Aggression

2008-12-30T20:36:00.002-05:00

A question from Hayley I. in Seattle, WA:
Q: I currently own four rabbits, and I have one female named Luna and one male named Oliver who are cage aggressive. Oliver was neutered but it doesn't seem to have helped, Luna is not spayed. They are both five months old and out of the same litter. So, my question is how do I cope with it, how do I change their behavior?

A: Rabbits can be very possessive of their personal space and, of course, they have a right to be. As prey animals, bunnies need to know they have a safe place to escape to when they feel scared or threatened. To encourage confidence in the safety of Oliver and Luna's territory, make it a point to clean their cages only when they've hopped out on their own accord. Never forcibly remove the rabbits from their cages; doing so could weaken their view of their safe places. Don't even reach in the cage when they're inside, even for feedings, at least for a few weeks. You have to give them time to learn that your presence has positive connotations. If they do happen to get a nibble in, yell out a high-pitched "ow!," so they fully understand that this action hurts you. Or wear gardening gloves. Time, patience, space, a calm approach, and understanding can transform a cage aggressive bunny into a easy-going, sweet pet.

Also remember that spaying and neutering reduces territorial aggression. Getting Luna spayed may help greatly, and Oliver may still need time until all of the testosterone has filtered out of his system (it can take 4-6 weeks). The good news is that at five months, they're still very young. This is a good time to alter their aggressive behaviors-- be patient and don't give up!

Mark Your Calendars...

2008-12-23T20:50:00.002-05:00

Mark your calendars for the 1st Annual Rabbit Advocate Info Day at the Especially for Pets in Newton, Massachusetts from 12-3pm on Saturday, February 7, 2009.

There will be a nail cutting demonstration, Q&A session, available handouts, and a few adoptable bunny visitors from the Boston MSPCA. We'll also be raffling off a gift basket donated by Especially for Pets to benefit the Boston MSPCA Animal Care and Adoption Center. Be sure to stop by the EFP at 1185 Chestnut St. in Newton Upper Falls, MA on February 7. I look forward to seeing you there!

The Importance of a Rabbit-Savvy Vet

2008-12-17T17:36:00.003-05:00

Every day, unsuspecting rabbit owners receive misinformed—and in some cases lethal—treatment from well-meaning but inexperienced veterinarians. Rabbits require very species-specific care that regular veterinarians are just not capable of providing, as certain medical conventions vary greatly between rabbits and their more conventional dog and cat counterparts. Rabbit-savvy vets know which commonly used antibiotics are dangerous for rabbits (especially Amoxicillin!); they know that rabbits cannot vomit and have highly sensitive gastrointestinal tracts, and therefore removing food and water before surgery is not only unnecessary but increases risk; and naturally, they know which diseases and conditions are specific to and more prevalent in rabbits.

Clearly, it's important to take the time to make sure your veterinarian has extensive personal experience practicing rabbit health care and performing small animal surgeries. When searching for a vet, know what questions to ask and don't hesitate to inquire about a potential vet's history, experience, and even surgery statistics. The House Rabbit Society has compiled a terrific list of experienced rabbit vets by state. If no one is listed close by, strongly consider commuting, or search for avian/exotic vets (rabbit knowledgeable medical professionals are most often classified as such) in your area and ask for recommendations. It might not be simple finding the perfectly qualified and dedicated vet, but when your pet's health is on the line, it's worth every effort!

The Rabbit Advocate friend, Augustus Cuddlesworth, belonging to Adrienne F. in Washington, D.C., is recovering from a broken front leg after getting it caught in the cage during a minor freak-out episode. Feel better soon, little buddy!

Question from the Audience: Getting to Know You

2008-12-15T20:49:00.000-05:00

A question from Linda M. in San Jose, CA
Q: I have a 2 year old spayed female (Trixie) that I adopted about 2 months ago. Last weekend I took her to an adoption fair and there were two neutered male rabbits she liked so I adopted one of them (Jack). They have been doing really well and progressing quickly as I can tell from some of the other stories I read out there. I have only had Jack in the house for 4 days now and they already can peacefully co-exist in the same territory for the most part. Trixie has run of the house so I set up a pen for Jack, just so I could keep them separated if I needed to. I started out with the bathtub as neutral territory and moved from there. I didn't expect to be in common territory yet, but they kept approaching each other through the pen so I thought I would give it a whirl.
There is no aggression (no growling, biting, fisticuffing), but Jack is more interested than Trixie. He will nudge his head down looking for attention & sometimes she will groom him for 15 seconds or so and sometimes she will trot off to go find something more exciting. So then Jack follows her and nudges again. If she continues to ignore him then he gets persistent and will start to chase her or mount her. She is starting to hide and be more reclusive because she doesn't want to be bothered by him. So, is this a match that won't work because of their differing interest levels, or will one of them eventually come around to meet the expectations of the other? I hate to see poor Trixie uncomfortable or unhappy in her own home.

A: I know how hard it is to see your rabbit uncomfortable in her own home, especially when you feel the newcomer is picking on her, but it sounds like these two are progressing perfectly. After only four days, they are still in the "getting to know you" phase and even though Trixie seems slightly less interested in becoming friends, this is part of the process of determining dominance and finding a balance. Grooming, ignoring, and lack of true aggression are all positive signs in this initial phase. These behaviors all constitute the process of finding the perfect balance for their relationship. Your method of using the neutral territory of the bathtub was ideal—you probably avoided some aggression because they were introduced in a neutral space.

For the time being, make sure Trixie doesn't react aggressively to Jack's chasing; it's actually better if Trixie is willingly running away. Keep a close eye on mounting behaviors; stop it immediately if Jack mounts Trixie head-first (this could be very dangerous for the male) and intervene with prologued regular mounting. If Trixie's reclusiveness increases dramatically, slow down the bonding process by reducing the amount of time they spend together.

Keep supervising them and you should see the overall mood of their interactions slowly improving. Rabbit bonding can take months in some cases, so patience is important. However, these two already seem to be doing excellent and so just keep up the great work!

Jack (left) and Trixie (right), just days after Linda's initial email.

Rabbit Talk: Bunny Noises

2008-12-11T08:43:00.003-05:00

While bunnies are known mostly as quiet, passive animals, they actually produce quite an array of sounds. Some sounds are discreet and you have to pay close attention to catch them, others are loud and unmistakable. It's important to know these noises and what they might mean in order to better understand your rabbit or know if she is in pain and needs attention.

Honking
These happy little grunting sounds, called "honking," are like a love song. Often loudest and most prominent in intact males and females as they circle your feet or perform other amorous behaviors, but fixed bunnies also can make this cute noise to express affection or admiration.

Purring
Rabbits purr by quietly grinding their teeth or chewing air when they are being pet and are happy and content with life.

Loud teeth grinding
A rabbit that is lying on the ground with her arms and legs drawn in close to her body, making clearly audible chomping sounds is in severe pain and needs medical attention right away.

Screaming
A shrill, high-pitched scream that comes for an injured rabbit right before death. I've never heard this, nor do I ever want to!

Growling
This unmistakable sound is produced by rabbits right before they attack or bite. Could be at a human, another bunny, or another animal. Often accompanied by a double front paw lunge forward. Rabbits with attitude growl when defending themselves or their territory or when expressing general disdain toward a variety of situations.

Hissing
Also done right before an attack and in correlation with lunging. This rabbit is angry!

Thumping
Thumping or drumming with the hind legs means the rabbit is aware of some apparent danger and is trying to either warn it off or warn others. The sound of the thump and the resulting vibrations in the ground would be felt by other rabbits in the wild, who would perceive it as a warning sign. When this occurs at home, simply tell your rabbit "everything's okay," in a reassuring voice. Rabbits may also thump to express disapproval or disgruntlement.

Squeaking
I've heard multiple stories of rabbits squeaking, but I've yet to come across it myself.

Snoring
Some rabbits snore or moan in their sleep. These bunnies are usually on the portly side.

Snorting
Every now and then a rabbit will emit a surprisingly loud snort.

Hiccups
Yes, rabbits can hiccup! They make little hiccup-like noises and look as if they are spasming for a few minutes.

It's fun to try communicating with your rabbit through their language. For instance, whenever my rabbit, Graysie, is lying on the couch with me and purring, I grind my teeth too. Often, she responds by licking my face and grinding back. I don't have to tell you this nonverbal exchange undeniably means, "I love you!"

Question from the Audience: Angora or not?

2008-12-08T17:30:00.002-05:00

A follow up question from Tara D. in Chicago, IL:
Q: I am still waiting to adopt, and I literally can't wait. I'm hoping on getting two buns, a mini lop, and maybe an Angora. If I do decide on an Angora, how do I tend to its grooming needs? What it the right way to brush, cut, pull out the hair? I’ve seen YouTube videos of owners pulling out their tummy hair and I am a little confused if that’s safe or not, knowing that their skin is very tender. Another question is how much noise do buns make at night in their cages? Is it tolerable while you’re asleep?

A: Again, it's great to hear you are doing so much research before adopting—being informed and having appropriate expectations is the best start for developing trusting relationships with your new friends. Since you are planning on getting two rabbits, I would look for a pair that is already bonded. Because it is harder to find homes for them, there are usually many pairs available at animal shelters. Contact the Chicago House Rabbit Society or look up bunnies on petfinder to meet available pairs in your area.

Typically, I would discourage first-time rabbit owners from getting an Angora, as their care is notably more complex and involved than short-hair rabbits; Angoras require intensive brushing and grooming that is best reserved for experienced rabbit owners. I recommend sticking with a short-hair variety that requires only minimal biweekly brushing.

If it cannot be helped, and an Angora is who you end up falling for, you will need to talk with the adoption counselor or foster parent to discuss all elements of Angora grooming.

A few pointers:
1) Angoras must be brushed daily.

2) It’s a good idea to trim their fur with sharp but safe scissors to keep it short (a few inches) and manageable.

3) When molting, which occurs roughly every three months, the rabbit completely sheds its outer layer of fur. During this time, Angoras should be plucked, that is, the loose chunks of fur removed with your hands. If done properly, this should not be painful since this fur is no longer attached to the skin.

4) While plucking should not be painful, the process can be very stressful. Constantly monitor how your rabbit is handling the ordeal. If she stresses easily, only pluck a few minutes each day. Rabbits are prone to stress and stress-related medical problems, including death, so please take this very seriously.

5) I would not recommend taking your rabbit to a pet groomer, as they are usually not rabbit savvy and unaware of the considerable stress factors.

6) Angora owners often give their bunnies fresh papaya or papaya supplements to help aid the passing of ingested fur. For similar reasons, they need to receive plentiful amounts of fiber-rich grass hay.

All of this grooming and brushing serves an integral purpose—a neglected Angora coat will become matted, painful, dirty, and susceptible to infection. If minor mats do occur, cut them out carefully with safe scissors. Additionally, grooming is important so that the rabbit is ingesting the least amount of fur possible. Ingested fur can create a blockage in the digestive tract, which can lead to anorexia and consequently death. This sort of complication must be treated surgically. As with most animals, grooming is not purely aesthetic!

Regarding noise level, rabbits are active at dawn and dusk, so they are often awake when you may want to be sleeping. How much this affects you depends on how light of a sleeper you are and the personality of your rabbit. Some rabbits will chew on the cage bars, some will dig around in their litterbox. I’ve used ear plugs for the past four years because my rabbit Graysie snores like a 300 lb old man with sleep apnea, though I believe this is relatively rare. If the option is available, I'd recommend keeping the cage in a living room or family room, and giving your rabbits plenty of daily exercise, mental stimulation, and interaction to ensure they are calmer in their cages.

Thumper and Letter need your help!

2008-12-06T23:13:00.003-05:00

Thumper (black neutered male) and Letter (black and white spayed female) have been patiently waiting for their forever homes at the Boston MSPCA for almost a year. They are two of the absolute greatest rabbits--sociable, intelligent, calm, affectionate, and sweet, and they are in their 11th hour at the shelter. This means that if they don't find homes within the next few weeks, or even days, they will be put down. This would be a travesty as these adorable little guys are truly great; they have mostly been overlooked because they love sleeping in their cardboard boxes and therefore oftentimes not in view of visitors.

Both Thumper and Letter are fixed and expertly litterbox trained. They'd be ready to go home with anyone who could take them and provide the forever home they so desperately need and deserve.

If you or someone you know are possibly interested, please contact me (via therabbitadvocate@gmail.com) or the MSPCA Boston (617-522-5055) to inquire about them. Thank you!

***UPDATE***
12/7/08
Thumper and Letter were transfered to a foster home with the House Rabbit Connection this morning and are therefore safe from euthanasia. They are still looking for a loving home in which to live the rest of their long, happy lives, so please contact the HRC at 413-525-9222 or check their website to see about meeting this amazing pair. Thanks again!

Making Sense of Scents

2008-12-05T19:12:00.002-05:00

Rabbits use two types of scent glands to mark their territory and communicate vital stats among one another—one under their chin and the other in their vent area. You may have noticed your bunny rubbing her chin on furniture, toys, food, or even you. It's her way of claiming ownership and proudly declaring, "That's mine!" You can sometimes observe rabbits, as well as various other mammals, scratching their chins with their hind legs and running around their (sometimes invented) territory, distributing their scent around the perimeter.

While the chin scent glands serve as subtler hints, the scent glands in the vent area, called anal scent glands, located on either side of the genitalia of both males and females, excrete a strong smell detectable even by humans. The rabbit is able to attach this scent to specific kinds of territorial droppings. However, rabbits frequently do not clean themselves properly, either due to weight or laziness, and the glands can become impacted and require your assistance.

When the anal scent glands are noticeably odorous, it’s time for a cleaning. I'll preface this by saying that you can't expect every part of owning a pet to be pleasant and great fun. Anal scent gland cleaning likely ranks high up there with the world's less pleasant pet ownership duties, but it's truly not that bad (besides the impossibly unpleasant odor). Your veterinarian can show you how to do it the first time, or you can just have them do it at quarterly vet visits. It's possible to do it at home as long as you can get a good grip on your rabbit, or wrap her in a towel, and are able to secure them on their backs or bottoms. If you're really skilled, you can do it by yourself, but the first few times you'll want to ask a (really) good friend to help out.

First, grab some Vaseline, Q-tips and tissues. Make sure you are sitting on the floor, so if the poor thing does wriggle out, she is safely close to the ground. Make the vent area accessible and expose the two slits on either side of the genitals. With a Vaseline coated Q-tip, wipe out the dark brown waxy substance.* Keep in mind to do all this very carefully because the area is highly sensitive and be aware that many rabbits get quite offended by all the activity down there, so keep them calm by talking soothingly and petting their heads. That's pretty much all there is to anal scent gland cleaning. I hope it's not as terrible as you imagined!

*Hold your breath while doing this.

Question from the Audience: Rabbits and Kids?

2008-12-02T19:01:00.002-05:00

Question from Paige J. in San Jose, CA:
Q: I am seeking information regarding a bunny/rabbit for my 5 year old daughter. I don't know what types are the best for a younger child. We are looking for a rabbit that is social and likes to be cuddled/ held. Any information or resources would be greatly appreciated.

A: One of the great misconceptions about rabbits involves the belief that they are starter pets— animals used to teach young children about responsibility or as a transitional step before a dog or cat. In reality, these perceptions are just not true and ultimately the root cause for a large part of the shelter rabbit population. Rabbits require a great deal of responsibility, an even greater amount than cats (though probably less than dogs). A pet rabbit needs several hours of daily exercise outside of its cage, fresh vegetables every morning, thorough cage cleaning a few times a week, possibly substantial medical expenses, and a serious time commitment, as they live an average of 6-8 years. Perhaps most importantly, rabbits require a large amount of love and personal attention.

The combination of rabbits and children tends to make for unhappy relationships, as the two have exceedingly opposite wants and needs. As prey animals that terrify easily, rabbits require a special kind of gentle understanding and interaction. Children are loud and their sudden movements combine uncomfortably with the rabbit's lifestyle. And rabbits, active at dawn and dusk, sleep during the day when children are interested in playing; like with humans, repeated sleep disturbances can elicit cranky and even aggressive responses from a rabbit.

On the other hand, children want soft, cuddly animals that they can pick up, hold, squeeze, etc. While the world might perceive them as stuffed animal toys, rabbits are in fact not suitable for child's play. Young children often restrain their pet rabbit, thereby encouraging the rabbit's "child-as-predator" perspective, which can incite aggressive behavior such as biting, kicking and scratching. Conversely, rabbits often suffer spinal fractures or even stress-induced heart attacks when they are improperly handled or picked up. Since many adult rabbit owners struggle with correctly and safely picking up and holding rabbits, the process is even harder, if not impossible, for young children.

In addition to physical injuries, neglected or mistreated rabbits live their lives in fear and will often revert to a wild state. Unfortunately, this resulting common scenario—unhappy child, unhappy parent, unhappy rabbit— usually ends with the rabbit being dropped off at the shelter or worse, released into the wild. Rabbits are also abandoned when the child becomes bored with their pet, can't handle the responsibilities, or the daily or medical care gets too expensive. This is especially unfortunate as shelter life and abandonment takes a serious toll on these ultra-sensitive animals.

While it is somewhat dangerous to use specific animals as "starter pets," I can see the value in getting a hamster before a dog, etc. Instead of a rabbit, though, a younger child would be better off with a guinea pig, rat, hamster, fish, or even a calm, outgoing cat.

All that being said, there may be children who are calm, responsible, attentive, and compassionate enough to own a rabbit, though I wouldn't recommend it to a child under eleven or twelve. Even then, a parent will have to be the primary caretaker, meaning they must themselves be willing to dedicate a few hours to the rabbit's daily care. It is the adult's responsibility to understand and then convey to their children the theories behind approaching and interacting with rabbits, especially making it clear that picking up the rabbit is only for adults. One last thing to consider is that countless rabbits are returned to shelters when it is realized that a family member is allergic to the animal; please make sure to test for this before adopting.

To sum up, I would advise waiting a few years, until your daughter is around eleven years old, at which point a trip to your local animal shelter will allow you to meet a variety of rabbits. There, you will be able to decide which individual (or individuals) seems best suited to your specific character needs. I wouldn't categorize any particular breed of rabbit as friendlier than others; there is a behavioral range in all types, though there are certain other factors to consider, such as the fact that some breeds (for example Angoras) require extensive grooming. Other than that, I don't advise choosing a rabbit based on it's breed or look, but rather by its individual character and personality.

FYI: Are Rabbits Rodents?

2008-11-29T13:17:00.001-05:00

Many people incorrectly assume that rabbits are rodents, perhaps due to their constantly growing teeth and consequently relentless chewing habits. In actuality, rabbits are Lagomorphs, of the order Lagomorpha, which includes rabbits, hares, and pikas. While both Rodentia and Lagomorpha are big-time chewers and even physically resemble one another, the two orders have specific anatomical (dental and genital) disparities, as well as differing dietary habits.
So, if some patronizing acquaintance ever calls your house bunny a rodent, you can now cleverly correct and enlighten them about the fabulous order Lagomorpha.

Paulina says, "I'm no rodent!"
(This gorgeous little Dutch Dwarf is the Boston MSPCA's little diva and currently available for adoption!)

Question from the Audience: Sibling Rivalry

2008-11-26T14:50:00.001-05:00

Question from Sean T. in Belmont, CA:

Q: I bought two very young bunnies 10 months ago. They were two males (brothers). After they became mature, they started fighting violently, so I had them both neutered and they were great friends again.

Since then, every few weeks they attack each other and then I separate them. A few days later they are friends again. This up and down cycle has been going on for 8 months. This time is different and they have not been friends in over a month. Is there anything I can do so they get along again? I don't like to see them separated.

A: After a rabbit gets neutered, his smell gradually changes as the hormones slowly filter out of his body. Therefore, it's no surprise that relations between them changed—they were actually new to each other. It's possible that the two brothers were not properly reintroduced after the surgeries; that is, introduced as if they were complete strangers after approximately 5 weeks of separation (in neutral territory, with constant supervision, etc.). You could still try reintroducing them this way. Another commonly suggested method involves taking them for a car ride together. The overt stress of the transport forces the bunnies to bond together for safety and protection. You could also put their cages next to each other in your house and let them get used to each others' new scents.

It's interesting to note that rabbits, like humans, sometimes hold grudges. The cause for this new extended period of hostility may exist because they have associated the violent memories of fighting with each other. If you want to try to bond them again, you'll have to be extra patient, and you should know that there's a possibility you will have to house them separately for the rest of their lives.

Rabbit Talk: What's a binky?

2008-11-24T20:03:00.004-05:00

Have you ever seen your rabbit sprinting around at full speed, twitching her head and body in different directions, kicking her legs out to the side, jumping high in the air, and pretty much looking like she's having a very sudden and acute full-blown seizure? Has your rabbit developed early-onset Tourette's Syndrome? Of course not! She's just "binkying." Rabbits communicate in a multitude of different ways, and the binky is used to express feelings of unadulterated exuberance.
If there's any doubt in your mind, check out pro-binkier Hoppel's YouTube debut:

Courtesy of House Rabbit Network
If you're pressed for time, watch the first 15 seconds and then forward to minute 2:00. That's when he really goes crazy! Please note that Hoppel is available for adoption, so if you live in the New England area, please contact the House Rabbit Network to make a date with this adorable little gymnast.

New areas that a rabbit finds exciting and also safe will frequently elicit a good binky episode. A trip outside to the garden or permission into a new room of the house are popular venues for binkies, though it doesn't take much—this past weekend, I rearranged my living room furniture, and I haven't seen that many binkies from Graysie in a while! Some rabbits binky as part of a daily routine, and some reserve them for special occasions. The phenomenon of the binky is just another reason to house your rabbit indoors, and allow them plenty of out-of-cage time. Outdoor rabbits rarely experience unadulterated exuberance, not to mention the fact that you miss out on quite the show if your rabbit is kept caged up. An indoor rabbit with plenty of roaming time will express their joy and gratitude in the form of a binky, and let me tell you, binkies never get old!

Question from the Audience: Questioning the Lessons of 4-H

2008-11-22T19:38:00.003-05:00

A question from Tina D. in Sacramento, CA:
Q: I've had seven rabbits in my life and would have considered myself knowledgeable until my 8-year old nephew came home from school the other day with an application to 4-H club.

Logan wants to show Holland Lops or English Spots (he hasn't decided). Except for the rabbits I had as a kid, all of mine have been adopted from shelters so I know nothing about breeding rabbits for this program. The 4-H says that Logan cannot show a spayed rabbit (how stupid it that!), so I would like to know what to look out for when helping him pick showable rabbits.

A: Although this blog primarily deals with house rabbits kept for companionship, I think this question deserves some attention so that everyone can be aware of the nature and beliefs of this widespread organization. While many 4-H programs are great opportunities for children to learn intimately about new subjects, expand their creativity and develop a sense of responsibility, I have some qualms with the organization's approach to animals. I will here on out focus on the rabbit program, which I believe ultimately sends faulty messages to children.

4-H rabbits can be raised for exhibition or for the meat and fur pen. The meat and fur pen is an altogether different matter and I'm sure everyone can guess exactly how I feel about it. Rabbit exhibition, while less obviously so, is also troubling. As someone with vast personal experience with rabbits, I can tell you that being in a show is one of the least respectful things you can do to a rabbit. Rabbits are prey animals, and as such are very uncomfortable and scared in new environments, surrounded by many people, animals, loud noises, children, etc. The showing life is highly stressful, and a rabbit can easily have a heart attack and die simply from shock or fear; therefore the situation is quite a bit more serious for the rabbit than one might think. Furthermore, the rabbit exhibition encourages a view of animals as objects, instead of living, breathing, thinking, feeling, sensitive beings. Respecting a rabbit includes treating them like the sentient beings that they are and not subjecting them to unnecessary stress or restraint simply for our aesthetic pleasures.

My second misgiving relates to the organization's barring of spayed and neutered rabbits in exhibition. You are completely right when you classified this rule as "stupid." Altering rabbits is a huge part of getting a handle on the pet overpopulation problem, not to mention the positive health and behavioral impacts that come along with it. Additionally, 4-H discourages adoption and instead promotes rabbit breeders and pet stores, which profit from abusive animal breeding facilities. In an age where approximately four million healthy animals are euthanized each year, and hundreds of thousands, if not millions, of rabbits are waiting in shelters across the country, it is not only socially irresponsible of such an influential organization to support these principles, but it also reinforces these misguided lessons to our children. 4-H purports to teach children about responsibility, yet they really miss the big picture on this issue.

I encourage you to seize this critical opportunity to talk to your nephew about the true meaning of compassion, responsibility and pet ownership. Tell him that having a pet should be a mutually beneficial arrangement—he can have all the pleasure of owning a rabbit while simultaneously saving that rabbit's life; tell him that true responsibility means respecting our companion animals by allowing them to live freely and peacefully and not be used for display for our benefit; tell him that social responsibility requires we look at the greater picture of the epidemic of animal overpopulation which forces overburdened shelters to euthanize regularly. Your nephew will gather a much more valuable lesson by learning about adoption, spaying and neutering, compassion and respect, instead of following the 4-H principles. You and your nephew could refuse to participate in the 4-H club, whereby acknowledging the flawed ideologies of the organization. Alternatively, you could practice your right to "civil disobedience" by adopting from a shelter and trying to show a fixed rabbit. This small protest may get other 4-H participants and community members thinking and raise awareness about these issues.

Be strong and good luck!

Question from the Audience: Rats and Rabbits?

2008-11-21T07:45:00.003-05:00

A question from Chad L. in Ridgewood, NY:
Q: I have a question concerning rabbits' behaviors with other animals. I currently have 3 rats and they are the most friendly social animals ever. I was wondering what your thoughts would be if I brought a rabbit home. The main area of concern is when they are all out together, obviously they would have constant supervision but do you see any reason from you experiences that would make you think that they would not get along? Thank you for your help.

A: Rabbits are social animals and are able to bond with dogs, cats, and guinea pigs, not to mention live happily with each other. You've got nothing to lose by taking your rats to an animal shelter and hosting playdates with a few potential rabbits. Be prepared to acknowledge that not every rabbit will be open to bonding with a rat--many rabbits might be overwhelmed by three quick-moving rats, but the combination could work out for some laid-back individuals. You might want to try a rabbit that has in the past gotten along with guinea pigs.

Of course, you will have to go through the full introduction procedures in a neutral territory under constant supervision, and I would encourage keeping them in separate cages even after they become friends. You'll also want to be aware that your interaction with rats and rabbits will be quite different, as rabbits prefer to stay on the ground and approach you, whereas rats, from what I gather, love crawling over you, etc.
Overall, if you do adopt, keep a close eye on them and make sure your rats don't act aggressively with the rabbit and vice versa. Be prepared for the chance that they might have to be kept separated. But I don't see any reason rats and rabbits can't become friends. Good luck!

Question from the Audience: Bunny Boredom

2008-11-19T18:53:00.010-05:00

A question from Eileen R. in East Meadow, NY:
Q: I am a first time rabbit owner. Over the past year and half that I've owned Cannoli, I have learned a lot about rabbits. I have a few problems. He chews the bars to his cage even when he's not enclosed in it! He has full range of my bedroom with the cage open for his litter, water, food and hay. At 6am he will get into his cage and start chewing the bars for no reason! He will have food, water and hay in his cage so there is no reason for him to be making such a ruckus.
I know I shouldn't leave him out while I'm at work, but he is just so hard to get back in the cage! He is also extremely smart. If he is in his cage eating or drinking and sees me walking towards it, its like someone put a fire under his butt and he runs out the cage and to the other end of the room thinking I'm going to lock him in there! Any advice would be appreciated thanks!

A: Rabbits, being the highly intelligent creatures that they are, get bored easily if they are understimulated. And it sounds like that is exactly what Cannoli is trying to tell you: he wants attention!
Here are a few ideas to spice things up and keep him entertained:
1) Cannoli is probably craving interaction with you. Spend some time on the ground with him. Pet him, talk to him, offer him a piece of an apple. Try teaching him a new trick! If you're just watching TV, forgo the couch and sit on the floor with Cannoli.
2) Invest in a new toy or two. Since he obviously likes to chew, chew toys are a great choice. There's also some great baby or cat toys that work for rabbits too.
3) Let Cannoli explore a different room in the house. You'd be surprised how exciting this is for them. New smells, new objects, new view! Just watch out for new trouble and rabbit-proof beforehand.
4) Set up an exercise pen outside and let him explore the garden. If you have a very calm rabbit, you can even use a harness and leash, provided you are careful. Always supervise your rabbit when he's outside-- birds, domestic cats or dogs, raccoons, etc. can attack at any moment.
5) Set up a destruction corner, as I like to call it, with a big basket stuffed with newspaper, hay, cardboard, toys, etc. and allow him to make a mess. You can set up a destruction area outside with potting soil where he can dig around. It doesn't get much funner than that!
6) Consider adopting a friend for Cannoli. Bonded bunnies entertain each other and don't feel as lonely or bored. Remember, busy bunnies are less likely to cause trouble.
7) Note that rabbits are most active during dawn and dusk, which explains Cannoli's high-level of activity at 6am!
8) If Cannoli hasn't been neutered, get that done. All those adolescent hormones make for a crazy, rebellious troublemaker. Rabbits grow much calmer and more well-behaved after the surgery.

Don't worry too much about Cannoli's feistiness. He's still young. As rabbits grow older, they tend to calm down and behave better. Right now he's still filled with energy and is overactive, which, just like children, oftentimes manifests itself in destructive behaviors.

Cannoli says, "But look how cute and innocent I look!"

In regards to Cannoli's cage aversion, try making his cage a positive, fun, safe place to be. Try to figure out why Cannoli would have developed such negative feelings toward his cage. Perhaps it's not big enough and he feels uncomfortable there? Maybe he finds the cage boring? Fill it with hay, toys, an ice cream mineral chew, dangling cat toys, fun-to-chew carpet squares, and hidden treats. Make sure the cage and litterbox are cleaned often; rabbits have sensitive noses and don't like being subjected to strong odors.

Cannoli is extremely smart for running out of the cage when he can tell you are planning to lock him up. Decondition this response by casually walking over to his cage several times a day and closing him in only one out of every ten times. Reduce the severity of getting caged in by sometimes letting him back out 5-10 minutes later. Avoid chasing Cannoli into his cage, as this will correlate cage time with punishment, or something he is forced to do. Instead, coax him in there with a treat, so that he views cage time is an option or a choice of his own free will.

Question from the Audience: Change in Cleaning Habbits

2008-11-17T12:44:00.002-05:00

A question from Alison C. in Chicago, IL:
Q: My English Lop is 4 years old and recently she has not been cleaning herself well. It is urine that she is not cleaning and it is on her fur, around her back legs. She did this last year and I brought her to the vet, and over $100 later I find out she had a tiny infection from a nail that probably got stuck on her cage or something and then became infected. So when I noticed this again (her not being very clean and the hair around her legs are dirty) I examined her and found nothing. Is there anything else you think could be going on? She is eating and drinking normally and also her bathroom habits are the same. I am just seeing if you may have any ideas. Thanks!

A: While it's hard to diagnose a problem from a distance, I have a few ideas for you to consider:
1) Overweight rabbits often have trouble cleaning themselves. Does she look very round? Does she get unlimited pellets? If so, it might be time to limit her daily pellet allowance and instead provide her with extra fresh veggies, and of course, unlimited hay. In fact, this is a good idea regardless of whether or not she is having weight problems. Good nutrition is essential for a happy rabbit.
2) What kind of litter do you use? If you are using only newspapers or hay, the urine may not be getting absorbed, and instead soaking into your rabbit's fur and skin. Try Yesterday's News, a highly absorbant cat and small animal litter.
3) Clean her litterbox more frequently, so the litter is fresh and dry.
4) Is she dribbling outside of her litterbox? This could explain how she is getting urine on her legs and fur. Dribbling could indicate a urinary tract infection, bladder stones or other medical ailments including uterine cancer.
5) Calcium buildup in the bladder might also cause her to dribble. Cutting out spinach, kale, collard greens or other calcium-rich foods might help; however, the buildup could be indicative of other medical problems.

Since this same behavior has previously occurred, at which time it indicated a significant medical problem, you should take it seriously and get her to the vet for a checkup. Perhaps there is another tiny infection that you are unable to see. She could also not be cleaning herself if she is in pain from an unrelated medical condition. Perpetually urine-soaked skin and fur could result in painful urine scalding on her lower belly and genital area. There could be something seriously wrong with your bunny, and waiting might worsen the problem. At least call your veterinarian and ask what he or she recommends.

Question from the Audience: Before Adopting

2008-11-16T15:45:00.012-05:00

A few questions from potential adopter Tara D. in Chicago, IL:
Hi! I am soon planning to adopt a bunny but I have some questions.
Q: Where should I adopt a bunny? A pet store? A Breeder? A Shelter? I know it all depends on me, I am just nervous about getting a sick bunny or not getting enough information on where the bunny came from?
A: The best place to acquire a healthy rabbit will be from a shelter or a rescue organization. Pet stores have no guarantees and breeders are notorious for inbreeding-related genetic problems. Shelters do medical examinations of their incoming animals, so they can guarantee an animal is healthy, or otherwise provide full disclosure. And most importantly, adopting from a shelter also helps the colossal problem of pet overpopulation; by adopting, you are saving that animal's life. With millions of animals being euthanized in shelters yearly, I believe it is socially irresponsible to buy from a pet store. Pet stores encourage and support animal breeding facilities which feed into the rabbit overpopulation problem.
The Red Door Animal Shelter in Chicago specializes in bunnies and would be a great place for you to visit.

Q: How do you know what gender a bunny is? And how do you know if its neutered or not?
A: If you are adopting, the shelter or rescue organization will be able to tell you the gender of each rabbit. Rest assured that both sexes are equally friendly and relaxed--as long as they've been fixed.
The shelter can tell you if a rabbit has been altered by checking for a spay scar or testicles. Spay scars can be hard to locate, so some veterinarians will actually mark a doe that has been fixed.

Q:What kind of cage do I get for my bunny?

A: You should get a cage that is spacious and has a flat surface.
The cage should fit an appropriately-sized litterbox, bowls for food and water, an area to lay down, room to hop around and stretch out. Since it is advisable to put your pet in the cage while you are away and unable to supervise, you'll want to consider that she will undoubtedly be spending a sizeable amount of time in there. If the cage isn't big enough, your rabbit will feel cramped, which may lead to physical and mental discomfort. This can manifest itself in nonstop digging, cage chewing, and other behavioral problems.
For rabbits other than dwarfs, I would recommend a dog crate instead of the rabbit cages pet stores offer. There are numerous varieties of dog crates and some have pull out trays which can make for easy cleaning; additionally, many of them fold down to a compact and portable size.
Don't use a wire-bottomed cage as it can lead to a painful condition called sore hocks. If you do have a wire-bottomed cage, make sure to cover it with a flat surface, so that rabbit can escape to a comfortable area.

Graysie in her cage, fit for an 80 lb dog

Outfit the cage with all sorts of toys, a rug or towel (unless they are ingesting bits of it), a cardboard box for security, tons of hay, a food and water dish, a large litterbox, and various mental stimulations to entertain you're rabbit while your gone.

How to Litterbox Train Your Rabbit

2008-11-14T13:19:00.006-05:00

One of the little known facts by outsiders about rabbits is that they can easily be litterbox-trained. Rabbits are naturally clean pets and most of them will actually teach themselves to use the litterbox. In fact, your bunny will often choose a spot in her cage that she considers her bathroom corner, so once you place a litterbox in that spot, the process of litter-training is complete. For many rabbits, it's as easy as that. For others, though, it might take a little extra time and effort.

For the "extra time and effort" bunnies, here are a few tips:
1) If your rabbit is soiling in several places, pick out the consistent spots and place litterboxes down there. If it means having two litterboxes inside the cage, that's fine. As they start improving, slowly wean them down to just one.

2) While she is still learning to use the box, you'll want to closely supervise and limit her play area. If your rabbit gets overwhelmed at a sudden abundance of space, she could forget about her box. Therefore, start small and increase gradually. Once she is box-trained, she will know to run in her cage to use the bathroom.

3) Throw some hay in the litterbox. This will encourage your rabbit's natural association between bathroom behavior and social chewing. Additionally, the more time they spend in their litterbox, the greater their likelihood of forming good litterbox habbits.

4) Consider that older rabbits are easier to train than young ones. So if she's young, don't worry; be patient. If she's older, be extra patient and don't give up! Experiment with the aforementioned tips. Try switching up the type of litter or get a different kind of litterbox. Put treats or toys in the box; and make sure to never bother her while she's in there.

5) Clean the litterbox about two or three times a week. This is just enough to make it clean and inviting, but not so sanitary that her ownership of the box is questioned daily. When cleaning the box, I like to splash some regular white vinegar on the bottom and let it soak with water for ten minutes. Vinegar removes the calcium buildup from the urine, without introducing any harsh chemicals.

6) If she's accidentally leaving some droppings in her cage, don't worry. A few territorial markings are completely natural and acceptable, and even the most well-trained rabbit will partake in this activity.

7) Lastly, the most important thing you can do to litterbox train your rabbit is neuter and spay. Males and females practice territorial spraying and droppings, so until your rabbit is fixed, don't be surprised if she has spotty litterbox habits.

Baloo napping in his litterbox

The litter:
The best litter I've found is Yesterday's News cat litter. It's made from recycled newspapers, so it's even good for the environment. Additionally, it's absorbent, odor-reducing, affordable and non-allergenic. Carefresh is a similar product. You could also use regular old newspapers or hay but these aren't as odor absorbing. Avoid clay cat litter as it is a possible respiratory irritant, and the clumping kind should specifically be avoided because it is dangerous when ingested. Cedar and pine chips, though sold in most pet stores, can cause liver problems.

The litterbox:
Use a box that the rabbit can comfortably sit and turn around in. Make sure the sides are tall enough so the rabbit doesn't accidentally dribble over the edge, but not so high that she has trouble getting in. You can buy a litter pan from a pet store, but a large plastic storage container works just as well.

Question from the Audience: To Bond or Not to Bond?

2008-11-13T07:42:00.000-05:00

A question from Judi G. in Naperville, IL:
Q: We have a bonded pair of bunnies (2 1/2 yr, spayed female and 1 1/2 yr, neutered male). My son recently was given a baby bunny - she is about 8 weeks old. Should we try to bond them as a threesome? If so, now? Or after the baby is spayed? Are we better off considering a fourth bunny for baby?

The older female is very laid back, so we have allowed her and the baby to be out for playtime together. The first 2 times, she basically ignored the baby, but last time, she attempted to "hump" baby. We separated them and have not let them out together since. Our boy seems very curious about baby and likes to investigate around her cage when he is out. He sometimes tries to nip at her through the cage and sometimes backs away to the corner. I try to keep her from the big bunnies' cage as I realize this is their territory and they will guard it, but she is quick and every now and then gets over there!

A: While bunny bonding is unfortunately not my area of expertise, I can offer some general guidelines about introducing rabbits. Most literature would advise waiting until the the baby has been spayed before allowing her to interact with the grownups. At eight weeks, the baby is nearing sexual maturity (usually at 3.5-4 months for females) which may cause fights to break out between her and the adults, as her increasing hormones make her more of a threat. Besides wanting to avoid injuries, you don't want the rabbits to associate negative memories with each other, as rabbits can, and often do, hold grudges.

You can keep the baby's cage in the same room as the adults so that they get used to each other's smells, as long as no one is getting stressed out by the others' presence and no territorial conflicts ensue. However, since it will still be about four months before the baby can be spayed, it might be wise to keep them separate to avoid confusion and stress. I'd make this judgment call based upon how the adults and baby seem to be reacting.

As you well know, an intact rabbit is less likely to bond with other rabbits, be more aggressive and territorial, and have all sorts of annoying sexual behaviors, so you'll want to spay the baby as soon as safely possible, at around six months. Make sure the baby (or by then "teenager") is completely healed before an introduction. Note that it takes about 3-4 weeks for the sex hormones to filter out of the system, so you'll need to allow time for this to happen. After about a month of healing, you can allow them to interact in a neutral setting.

Personally, I think it's a good idea to take the time to bond the three of them and make sure they all get along, so that everyone is able to be out at all times, and you don't have to keep certain ones caged, while others run around. If you were interested in introducing a fourth to the mix, same sex babies are really easy to put together. (Male-female baby pairings are dangerous, as you are risking a chance for pregnancy.) If you'd like to know more about bonding, the House Rabbit Network has a great and thorough article on bonding rabbits.

Question from the Audience: Nail Trimming

2008-11-11T19:10:00.001-05:00

A question from Sarah L. in Boston, MA:
Q: I've been trying to cut Winnie's nails for the past week but she just hates being picked up. When I do try to pick her up, she gets pretty angry. She really needs to get her nails trimmed. What should I do?

A: It's possible that Winnie had some negative experiences with being picked up improperly before you adopted her-- perhaps she was dropped, or hurt herself when she was allowed to flail around; or maybe it's just extra scary for her. An extreme aversion to getting picked up is definitely hard to break and the only thing you can do is continue holding her extra firmly and making sure her legs are secured.

When you are ready to cut her nails, sit down in a chair and tightly wrap Winnie in a towel, like a burrito, with just one leg sticking out. If you can get a partner to hold her while you do the cutting, even better. Or, if think your rabbit is mostly opposed to having her paws touched, as quite a few are, try placing her in your lap so that her bottom is resting in your lap and her hands and feet are sticking out (see below). With one hand securing her chest, you can use the other one to cut the nails without actually touching her paws.

Graysie demonstrating how to properly stick out one's paws.

In rabbits with clear nails, the quick is easily identifiable. This pink area contains blood vessels and is very sensitive; you never want to cut through it. Leave some room between the end of the quick and the cutting line.
In rabbits with black nails, this process is harder, so you'll have to be more careful and just cut the tips off. The squeeze and release technique is especially helpful with dark nails, but should be practiced always: Carefully place the scissor around the nail, a few millimeters away from the quick, and squeeze down and release before actually cutting. If you are too close to the quick, the rabbit will jerk away when you squeeze down. So squeeze, release, and cut. Don't try to rush through the process. Cutting the quick can result in pain and a lot of blood loss. If you do accidentally cut too close, use a product like Kwik Stop to stop the bleeding. If you find that the nail cutting process is really stressful on your rabbit out, try doing the front paws one day and the back feet a few days later.

Some online sources suggest putting your rabbit in a trance (on her back) to cut the nails. I would discourage this as it could be dangerous if your rabbit suddenly jerks awake, as she could break her spine or otherwise injure herself. If you are having a tough time with it, you can always get your veterinarian to do the job and they can even demonstrate the best way to do it.

The Importance of Hay

2008-11-09T17:05:00.004-05:00

The most important part of a rabbit's diet and health is hay, which should compose the main part of your rabbit's meals. A plentiful, hay-centric diet includes nutritional, medical and psychological benefits.

Nutritional
Besides its delicious taste, hay is full of the necessary fiber, minerals, and vitamins your rabbit needs. It provides perfect nutrition—rabbits bodies are meant to live off entirely of hay and vegetables. The type of fiber in hay is critical in maintaining healthy digestion. Digestive problems, such as gastric stasis and diarrhea, are the most common ailments in house bunnies. The answer is often simple: more hay!

Medical
With healthy digestion come various medical benefits. Besides ensuring regularity, good motility allows hairballs to pass naturally and prevents bacteria from overgrowing in the cecum. Along with healthy digestion, the high fiber of hay prevents obesity, which, as we know, can cause all sorts of problems. Hay is necessary for dental health as well. Chewing on the tough stalks wears down the constantly growing teeth and prevents molar spurs and other tooth-related problems.

Psychological
Chewing is a necessary mental activity for rabbits and they love to graze on hay— it's so fun!

Hey! That's my hay!
(Dawson is currently available for adoption at the Boston MSPCA!)

Types
Not all hay is equal. Different types contain varying concentrations of fiber, protein and calcium. High fiber, and low protein, low calcium grass hays are the best. Healthy types include Timothy (most commonly available), orchard, brome, and oat. Avoid alfalfa and clover, as they contain too many calories, protein, and calcium, and not enough fiber. All hay should be green, not brown, and smell fresh, not dusty or moldy.

Where to buy
Purchasing hay in bulk from a nearby farm can be cheaper and likely fresher and higher in quality. For instance, Sweet Meadow Farm in Sherborn Massachusetts provides an assortment of high quality products you can order online. You can also find hay in smaller quantities at most pet stores and through various websites.

Question from the Audience: Potty Problems

2008-11-07T08:29:00.005-05:00

A question from Dawn C. in Chicago, IL:
Q: I am a rabbit mom of six. Most are rescues, and all are fixed, but problem is with my rabbit Chloe. She is a 6.5 lb female who constantly has pudding poop. I have taken her to the vet to see if she has parasites or anything wrong. They tested her for everything and she is perfectly fine; all tests were normal. I have had her since she was 8 weeks old and she has a good diet. She is offered lots of greens and veggies but she is very picky. Is there something I could be doing different? We constantly have to clean her bottom to get all the poop off of her as she does not do it herself. Any advice would be great.

A: Chloe's situation sounds more like chronic diarrhea than the serious kind which can be lethal. (One way to differentiate between the two is examining behavior-- is she otherwise alert, active, and eating? If she were to act listless, you'd need to seek immediate medical attention.) But since this has been going on for an extended period of time, and the vet has confirmed she is otherwise healthy, her diet is to blame. Rabbits have acutely sensitive GI tracts, and it sounds like Chloe's is especially sensitive. But don't fret! Two dietetic changes will stop this messy and uncomfortable situation: more fiber (hay) and less starch (pellets et al.).

Starch:
As discussed in regards to Bunnicula, rabbits tend to get overfed pellets, which I've before likened to fast food. But just like with human junk food, there are different levels of offenders-- the pellet mix with all sorts of junk (dried fruits, corn, sunflower seeds, nuts) is like a Double Quarter Pounder with Cheese, Extra Large Fries and a Coke. If you are going to feed your rabbit pellets, go with a Happy Meal hamburger instead, which would be the simple Timothy hay-based pellets.

Fiber:
Feeding unlimited Timothy hay provides the necessary fiber needed to keep the GI tract moving along regularly and ensure that droppings are solid and healthy. Alfalfa has too much protein and could also be the culprit in the messy droppings; if you are still using it, switch to high-fiber, low-protein Timothy hay.

What to do:
To overcome chronic diarrhea, temporarily cut out everything but hay. Feed only Timothy hay for two-three days, then introduce some dark, leafy greens and fragrant herbs (avoid spinach and kale for now as they contain too much calcium). Also stay away from carrots, as they contain lots of sugar, and avoid fruits for the same reason. Continue with the hay and vegetable diet for 3-4 weeks and see how she does. If she's producing firm droppings, you can try introducing a small portion of simple pellets. Since she's 6.5 lbs, I'd start with a little less than a quarter cup. If the diarrhea returns, switch back to the Timothy hay and vegetables and stay with that. It's possible her GI tract is too sensitive for pellets and they will have to be permanently removed.

With the hay and veggie diet, Chloe will also slim down to a healthy weight, at which she'll be able to properly clean herself. Good luck with Chloe and please keep me updated on her condition!

Thank You!

2008-11-05T07:22:00.006-05:00

The mechanical rabbits of Massachusetts (and I) would like to thank all who voted to ban dog racing. Three cheers for the Greyhound Protection Act!

Health Special: Lead Poisoning

2008-11-03T14:21:00.015-05:00

While it is widely know that pregnant women and children are at risk for lead poisoning, the danger faced by pets is less recognized. Of household pets, rabbits at an elevated risk due to their nibbling nature--from ingesting, in addition to inhaling, paint particles when they lick or chew on the walls.
Lead poisoning is a relevant danger in areas with older buildings, especially in New York and Massachusetts. Unfortunately, in these areas, virtually all apartments built before 1978 used lead-based paints. In greater Boston, where homes are often 100 or more years old, the incidence of lead poisoning in rabbits is alarmingly high; yet, there is little literature or verbal warning available to owners. Lead poisoning is all too often lethal in rabbits, with excruciating belly pain and possible neurological affects, but the good news is that it is preventable.

Some preventative measures:
-Talk to potential landlords before moving in to get an accurate history of the place and know your tenant rights.
-Look into the possibility of deleading your apartment. This can be quite pricey but in some instances the landlord is legally obligated to take care of it.
-Paint. The more layers there are over the lead-based paint, the less of a chance of inhalation or ingestion.
-When remodeling, follow specific guidelines to avoid exposing lead-laced dust particles. Look into the EPA's report on dos and don'ts.
-Put up adhesive contact paper around the baseboards and lower walls that the rabbit can access.
-Supervise your rabbit. A house with lead can never be 100% rabbit-proof. You should always be aware of where your rabbit is and what she is doing.

Signs and symptoms of lead poisoning:
Signs and symptoms of a lead poisoned rabbit include loss of appetite, decrease or cessation of fecal droppings, diarrhea, listlessness, depression, sudden change of litterbox habbits, and even some neurological changes. If you notice any of these symptoms, especially the diet and behavioral changes, get your rabbit to an experienced veterinarian immediately, where a simple blood test can determine the presence of lead.

Treament of lead poisoning:
Treatment for lead poisoning is chelation therapy, likely a series calcium injections. The vet will also administer fluids and morphine (for stomach pain) and may need to force feed your rabbit to overcome ileus (arrested stomach contractions).
If you are continuing treatment at home and your rabbit is anorexic, use a small syringe to inject about 10 ccs of vegetable or fruit-based baby food into her mouth, two to three times a day. Sometimes right after a force feeding episode, your rabbit will be willing to eat a few bites of fresh food. Offer her favorite foods, anything to get the stomach contracting again. Fresh, aromatic herbs such as cilantro, basil, parsley are good, along with dark leafy greens like romaine. (Though nothing conclusive has been proved, various sources claim that cilantro suppresses lead deposition. Since this herb is otherwise delicious and healthy for rabbits, it's an excellent treat at this time.) The point is to keep your rabbit alive while the chelation removes the lead from the body.
One thing to note is that the calcium treatment can get very painful as the necessary overdose of calcium builds up in the bladder, often creating a painful to excrete sludge-like matter. If your vet has sent you home to administer the subcutaneous injections yourself, make sure you are dispensing the morphine as directed to alleviate the pain and following through with the saline solution to dilute and flush out the sludge. If your rabbit is dribbling, place down Puppy Pads over the carpet and also the cage floor so the rabbit does not have to jump in and out of the litter box.

The bottom line:
Lead poisoning can be serious and devastating, but it is treatable and most importantly, highly preventable if the proper precautions are observed. Spread the news about lead poisoning to all your rabbit-owning friends and acquaintances. You may be saving a life!

*This article is dedicated to Dr. Mickley and Dr. Orcutt at Angell Animal Medical Center in Boston, who treated my rabbit, Graysie, and to my former roommate, M. Offit, who was of life-saving assistance, during Graysie's battle with lead poisoning in November of 2006.

How to Pick Up a Rabbit

2008-10-30T20:50:00.001-04:00

Rabbits deserve a high level of respect and this includes the right not to be restrained by humans for our pleasure, for instance, by unnecessarily picking them up. (Look back here to read why rabbits don't like being held despite their stuffed-animal appearance.) However, there are instances, like a vet visit or a nail trim, that require a rabbit to be picked up.

Knowing the proper way to pick up and hold your rabbit is essential to avoiding serious injury. When picking up a rabbit, you'll need to be confident and slightly forceful. Meek attempts allow the rabbit to flail and kick out its hind legs, which could cause a disastrous spinal fracture. Therefore you must always support the bottom of a rabbit while they are being picked up and held.

The best way to pick up a rabbit starts with a few nice pats on the head for reassurance.

Then, move your hands down to its shoulders and wrap your hands around its back and sides, pushing down softly but firmly.

Move your right hand under the chest and lift up slightly.

Place your left hand on the bottom of the rabbit near its tail and lift her up, holding her firmly and tightly.

Place the rabbit to your chest, supporting her legs. Hold her firmly and securely, disabling her ability to jump. A fall from a few feet can lead to a leg or back fracture.
If your rabbit has a tendency to flail when held, wrap her in a towel to restrain her completely. This sort of wrapping technique can be helpful for nail trims as well.

She gets a treat for being such a good sport!

Question from the Audience: Urine Trouble and Pellet Trouble

2008-10-29T19:27:00.006-04:00

A two-part question from Kelly S. in Boston, MA:

Q: Bunnicula is a large albino (New Zealand) spayed female rabbit. She is litter trained and I never keep her in her cage. She has free range of the bedroom. One of my questions is: although I mentioned that she is litter trained she's recently started peeing on my bed...not fun. We've been leaving a shower curtain over the bed now (when we're not in it) and she hasn't peed on the curtain yet...I'm just hoping that we can go back to our curtain-free bed soon. I'm not sure why she started this behavior, any ideas?

Interspecies Cuddling: Mouse, the cat, and Bunnicula, the bunnicula

A: With sudden changes in urinary behavior, you need to be suspect of a urinary tract infection. While these are hard to diagnose definitively without a sterile urine sample (note that its not impossible to get a urine sample from a rabbit...) the vet will usually prescribe a broad-spectrum antibiotic to see if the unwanted behavior goes away.

However, UTI-related changes usually result in dribbling in the cage or next to the litterbox; the fact that Bunnicula is jumping up on your bed to urinate leads me to believe this is more a territory-related issue. You mention that she has free range of the bedroom at all times. While you are retraining her to use only her litterbox, you will need to restrict her freedom by only letting her out when you are there to observe her. Additionally, you will need to prohibit her access from the bed. The idea behind this retraining is that you need to show her that you, not she, is not the owner of the bed. She will quickly get this once she is shooed off the bed a few times. When she understands that she's not the master of the bed, she won't feel the need to mark it as her territory. Once she starts behaving and staying off the bed, she can slowly have her freedom back, but it's possible she'll need some form of supervision permanently. Eventually, you can also experiment with letting her back up on the bed, but if the problem returns, you may just have to cut off bed access altogether.

Q: I'm also concerned about her weight...how much pellets should I be feeding her? She has unlimited timothy hay and veggies and I usually just make sure she always has pellets as well...but she's getting quite big! She loves her pellets though and I feel like I'm denying her when she runs out and I don't fill her bowl. She's quite a diva when she runs out of pellets, too, throwing her bowl around the cage, etc. I'm going to be such a push-over mom!

A: Originally, commercial pellets were created as feed for rabbits raised for slaughter. These rabbits didn't need to live long and healthy lives; they needed to plump up as fast as possible. Now you can understand why commercial pellets- while delicious- need to be restricted in the diet. It's like fast food for us.

Rabbit obesity is serious for several reasons. Bunnies have very sensitive stomachs and too many pellets (and consequently too little fiber) can cause all sorts of GI tract problems. Unrestricted access to pellets is linked to heart and dental problems; additionally, risk increases as the extra pounds go up when it comes to general anesthesia, if this ever became relevant for dental or surgical reasons.

Timothy hay should compose a large part of the rabbit's diet; rabbits can live off hay and vegetables healthily. But we've spoiled our rabbits with junk food and cutting it out completely seems harsh for us pushover Moms (or Dads)! But since you've noticed Bunnicula's unhealthy weight gain, she should probably go on a little bunny diet.

Follow this rule: Feed 1/8 cup food for every 4lbs. So, if your rabbit is 8 lbs, feed 1/8 cup in the morning and 1/8 cup at night, as to spread it out. Provide unlimited Timothy hay and an assortment of fresh veggies every morning. If you're unsure about anything, talk to your vet.

And if your rabbit is throwing temper tantrums, the best thing to do is ignore them (as with human kids!). If your rabbit has bowl-throwing temper tantrums, and a lot of them do, acquire these attachable bowls from PetSmart- they are a lifesaver!

How to Train your Rabbit

2008-10-27T13:44:00.007-04:00

Training your rabbit to come when called can be a valuable tool. I use this command to get my rabbit into her cage and keep her mentally stimulated!

To teach your bunny this trick, start by crouching down a few feet away from her. Hold a treat, like a Yogurt Drop, in your hand and make tsk tsk tsk sounds. If there's no response, move a little closer and let your rabbit smell the treat, making the tsk continuously. When she comes to you, continue making the sound and give her the treat. Move back and start the process over again. Your aim is to get the rabbit to associate the tsk sound with a treat. She'll likely catch on faster than you think, but the bottom line here is patience and repetition. Later on, you'll only need a treat half the time. Practice calling her over often to keep it fresh in her memory, and if your rabbit starts giving you that clueless look, increase the frequency of your practice sessions.

This sort of Pavlovian conditioning works well with rabbits. As we owners know, bunnies are intelligent creatures. Teaching them commands is an excellent way to mentally stimulate and keep them active, thinking, and happy. And teaching your rabbit to come when called can make your life easier. You'll never have to chase her into the cage at night again! She'll go in on command. This not only helps you, but since your rabbit is entering the cage seemingly at her own will, she'll view the cage as her own controlled territory, causing her to feel safer.

Question from the Audience: Bunny Friends

2008-10-23T08:12:00.003-04:00

A question from Greg S. in Boston, MA:

Q: I currently have a male lionhead rabbit, and he lives alone, is an indoor rabbit and gets a lot of time out of his cage. However, there are still a few hours he is home alone and I was considering getting a bonding candidate for him. I was wondering whether there is any sort of sign that finding a mate would be good? He has been introduced to another rabbit before and seemed very interested and gentle, the other rabbit on the other hand was not interested and too dominant. Do you think this submissiveness would be with all rabbits or was that an isolated example?

A: If you ever observed a bonded pair of rabbits, you immediately understand that rabbits are social creatures who love and enjoy each others' company. And if you didn't think there was anything cuter than your bunny flopping down next to you, you have to see two bunnies cuddling up with each other. The cuteness increases exponentially!

Exponential Cuteness

But before you do adopt, you should first have your rabbit fixed. Neutering eliminates numerous medical problems, halts unwanted behaviors, and also reduces aggression and tension between rabbit companions. Unneutered males can be quite aggressive, though females can be just as violent, and the only sure thing you can do to ease a transition to two bunnies is spay and neuter. Also be aware that it takes roughly six weeks for the hormones to filter out of the body, so you'll have to wait a month or two after the surgery before the introduction. The best combination for a neutered male would be a spayed female, though it's not impossible for two neutered males to get along.

While dominance and submissiveness are relative qualities, they do tend to stay consistent in individuals and seem tied to personality. Since your rabbit reacted calmly and gently during a previous introduction, you can mostly expect he will behave similarly in the future. However, if the introduction with the "too-dominant" rabbit took place in a non-neutral territory, such as on the "too-dominant" bunny's home turf, the meeting was biased, and the circumstances would have affected their personalities. However, their reactions could still resonate in general terms.

The best way to determine how your bunny would react to others is to find out. Many shelters, such as the Boston MSPCA, allow potential adopters to bring in their current pets for a meet and greet. This is a good neutral ground for an introduction and a good way to see which rabbits your pet would get along well with.

While considering a second rabbit, don't forget that you will need a neutral space for them to have their first few interactions, a second cage, and a separate area for the second cage. It will reduce stress levels greatly if the rabbits can get used to each others' smells before the new one moves into your first bunny's territory.

All in all, since rabbits are social creatures, your bunny would most likely greatly enjoy having a pal to hang with. And with adopting another rabbit, you are saving an another life! What could be better than that?

Question from the Audience: Digging and Chewing

2008-10-21T09:55:00.002-04:00

Of the seven or so emails I received last week, a whopping three concerned chewing behaviors, specifically carpet chewing. See Sarah L.'s question and answer here, and see below for the additional two:

From Tina S. in Maynard, MA:
Q: We recently adopted an unneutered 1 year old male rex rabbit. We let him have a few hours of fun in the evenings, but he keeps chewing the carpet up in one spot under our dresser. We have tried blocking it off with various things and he always finds a way to get it. I was wondering if you had any advice for us?

And from Allison F. in Arlington, MA:
Q: While my fixed male and female 1.5 yr old bunny pair have lots of a room to run and cardboard to chew, they still insist on digging and pulling out carpet
from time to time. Any ideas on how to discourage this activity?

A: Three primary factors influence chewing behaviors: age, hormones and personality. First, let's focus on the common denominator here: age. All three (including Winnie) are under 2 years old and therefore still in their teenage years. Younger rabbits not only have extra energy to burn, but tend to be more mischievous. Since all the rabbits involved here are still young, it should be reassuring to know that as rabbits grow older, the less trouble they will get into.

Getting your rabbit spayed or neutered is the single most powerful way to reduce their desire to chew and dig. Along with a multitude of health and behavioral benefits that come with fixing your rabbit, comes the lessened desire to burrow, dig, chew, and destroy. The change is most drastic in females, who might be chewing and digging in order to prepare for a (real or fake) pregnancy; however, a neuter surgery will calm a male rabbit as well, reducing a variety of destructive behaviors.

Personality is a large part of chewing and digging. Many rabbits are natural chewers and many are natural troublemakers and the combination of these two qualities can be perilous to your furniture! Here are a few rules and tips to decrease carpet chewing:

1) Strict supervision --> Consistent Discipline --> Smart discipline: Without strict supervision you can't have consistency in discipline. Your rabbit can get away with all sorts of shenanigans and since she will only be getting in trouble half the time, the message of "no!" won't get through clearly. Smart discipline is a large part of seeing results. If your rabbit is interpreting your negative attention (you running over to her every time she digs at the carpet) as play, your discipline is not only failing to get across but even serving as encouragement. Instead try a time-out (back in the cage!) for a few minutes. Time-outs work because they cut out the attention to negative behaviors, and they are less likely to get interpreted as games, thereby showing you mean business!

2) Distraction: Right after your rabbit has stopped the negative behavior, call her over for a fun game or treat. Positive reinforcement and distraction go a long way.

Distraction is the name of the game!

3) Alternatives: Chewing is an important bunny acitivity as rabbit teeth are constantly growing. Always make sure you've provided plenty of timothy hay- it's not only an essential part of their diet, it's necessary for tooth development.
You can try putting a spare piece of carpet or a cotton towel in your rabbit's cage to chew on (just make sure she's not ingesting the fibers), since it's likely the texture she's seeking. These mineral chews are also great. Most rabbits love them and the treats help your rabbit learn to chew only on acceptable items.

4) Repellents: Pet stores sell repellent sprays, such as bitter apple spray (though some rabbits actually like the taste, so test it first). Check out a hardware store for creative ways to block certain spots. Areas like under dressers or under couches are specifically prone to a good chewing because they mimic what digging would be like at the end of a burrow. Block these areas off by putting a large shallow tupperware under the furniture. Get creative!

Quick Tip: Litter Box Trouble

2008-10-20T09:01:00.004-04:00

Digging litter out of the litter box is a hugely annoying problem. My rabbit, Graysie, did this for most of her young life, and I tried all sorts of unsuccessful methods (huge covered litter boxes, different types of litter, clapping, yelling, etc. etc.). Finally, this surprisingly simple solution ended my frustrations: I purchased metal mesh/chicken wire and metal snips from a local hardware store, cut the chicken wire in the shape of the litter box, and after pouring in the fresh litter, I placed the tight-fitting metal wiring on top. The urine and droppings fell right through the wire and Graysie wasn't able to dig the litter out. Success!
Feel free to leave comments about how you solved one of your stubborn bunny's naughty habits!

Question from the Audience: Adoption

2008-10-19T10:36:00.006-04:00

A question from Michelle O. in Brooklyn, NY:

Q: Dear Rabbit Advocate: I am considering getting a rabbit...I just don't know if I have room for it in my apartment. Plus my apartment has a cat and I don't know if that would be a good combo. How much time and care do rabbits need? I work long hours but I would love to have a friendly rabbit. Also, could you tell me where I should look for one?

A: These are all important questions that you should think about before deciding to adopt a rabbit. It's hard to think logically when you see that fluffy adorable little furball, so make the informed decision to adopt or not before heading down to your local shelter.

The actual space that rabbits require is not much, though your living quarters do have to accommodate a sizable cage. Different rabbit breeds require different cage sizes--a dwarf mini-lop will have different requirements than a Flemish Giant. (Speaking of Flemish Giants, Murph is an upstanding gentleman at the Boston MSPCA, looking for a forever home. With big size comes a big heart!) But if you have the space for it, a bigger cage gives your rabbit more freedom. You will also need a space for your rabbit to run around. Your bedroom can work just fine for this, or a living room/family room. For a skittish rabbit, bigger isn't always better. Shy rabbits will feel more comfortable in smaller spaces. Otherwise, a moderate-sized playing area should be fine, as long as your rabbit has room to check out different things and do her morning sprints!

Mr. Murphs, the Flemish Giant

One thing rabbits need more of than space is interaction. Rabbits are not hamsters or guinea pigs. They are more on par with cats and dogs in terms of the level of companionship they seek. But just because you work a 9-5 job, you can still have a pet rabbit. On a daily basis, you will need to let your bunny run around a larger territory for a few hours and spend at least half hour bonding. The more you interact with her, the more she will trust you, and the more rewarding your friendship will be. There's a direct correlation here!

Regarding interspecies rabbit introductions, they are not to be taken lightly. However, the House Rabbit Society reports a high level of success between cats and rabbits. Read this literature to learn all the details of a cat/rabbit introduction.

The best place to find an adoptable rabbit will be at your local animal shelter. You can use petfinder.com to locate a nearby animal shelter or rescue organization and even see the available pets online. Look back here to find out exactly how petfinder works or just go straight to their website!

Question from the Audience: Digging, Treats, Holding

2008-10-18T12:18:00.006-04:00

And now, a three-part question from Sarah L. in Boston, MA. She writes:
Hi Rabbit Advocate! About a month ago, my boyfriend and I adopted Winnie from the MSPCA in Boston. She is doing absolutely wonderful. We love her so much and she is such a great bunny! However, we have a few questions:

Q: 1) Winnie loves to poke around and explore but sometimes she gets into the corner of the room and pulls and digs up the carpet! We've tried to clap and say 'no' when she does it and sometimes she'll stop, but sometimes she's pretty stubborn and completely ignores us and continues digging. Are there any other alternatives to prevent her from digging up the carpet? Or should we just continue to clap loudly and hope that she stops?

A: Unfortunately, this is a common complaint among rabbit owners. The chewing and digging instinct is very strong in bunnies, but it is markedly stronger in some individuals than others. I've lived with both varieties, and let's just say one is a little less stress-inducing than the other! So I can share in your frustration in this matter.
If the stern "no"s and clapping are being ignored (how rude!) gently push your rabbits nose away from the carpet and distract her with a game. Distraction and positive reinforcement are key. Rabbits also oftentimes view your negative feedback (clapping, verbal warnings, etc.) as a game. Discourage this, as it feeds into the bad behavior. Remove the rabbit from the situation or enforce a time-out to show that you're being serious!
Unfortunately, digging and chewing carpet is super-duper fun for rabbits. One option is getting a small square of carpet to put in her cage (unless she's ingesting the carpet fibers), thereby removing the novelty of the corner carpet. Or, if there's a specific place she consistently visits to dig and chew, move a heavy piece of furniture over it. Removing access to the spot may lessen the urge to destruct!
Lastly, as a note of reassurance, I am currently living with a former carpet enthusiast. After a long (loooong) time of repeated clappings and distractions, she rarely even notices the carpet anymore. Keep in mind that rabbits can be taught, but the process will likely not happen overnight.

Q: 2) I've read on a few websites that it's okay to feed your bunny cheerios. I've fed Winnie a few cheerios here and there and noticed that she loves them and gets extremely excited when she knows I have them in my hand. I just want to know if cheerios are okay to continue giving her.

A: I would recommend against feeding your rabbit any processed or high-carb human foods (Cheerios are both). You're right in questioning this snack. Of course, one Cheerio a week isn't going to kill your rabbit, but there are healthier alternatives out there, intended specifically for rabbits. Yogurt drops have a 100% success rate with every rabbit I've known and I've even been tempted on more than one occasion to try a nibble. (They smell delicious.) While these aren't on the health par with a cilantro bunch or basil leaves, they can safely be offered in half-servings. Or try small bits of apple as a treat. And if you do choose to keep on with the Cheerios, be on the lookout for diarrhea, or in the long-term, obesity. In these cases, cut the cereal.

Q: 3) Winnie loves to be pet but she absolutely hates being picked up. I'm pretty sure we're properly picking her up -- one hand under her bum and the other under arms and we when we pick her up, we hold her close to our body so she feels secure but she still gets really scared. Should we just stop trying to pick her up?

A: It sounds like you are picking Winnie up in the proper way. However, picking your bunny should be reserved for vet visits or other necessary times. Look back here for detailed advice on why rabbits prefer to be on the ground and alternative ways to interact with your bunny. Good luck with Winnie!

A picture of Winnie herself, courtesy of Sarah L. How festive!

How to Find Your New Best Friend

2008-10-16T22:59:00.019-04:00

When I hear someone talking about wanting to get a dog from a breeder, I always interject with my usual "Forget the breeder! Adopt!" lecture. One of the most common responses I get is, "Oh, but I want a [insert breed name here]. I've had [breed name] my entire life and that's what I want!" Well, my friends, there is a better option. It's called petfinder.com. Petfinder is an online directory of virtually all adoptable animals currently at shelters, rescue groups and fosters. The site also allows users to search animals by breed, age, size, and gender. So, if dachshunds are your thing, you don't have to go to a breeder. You can locate one at a nearby animal shelter or find a breed-specific rescue organization. By adopting, you're no longer contributing to pet overpopulation, but instead ameliorating the situation and saving lives.

Petfinder also works for people seeking specific breeds of rabbit. It's hard to not take home all the cute little baby bunnies you see at pet stores, but we must resist supporting this abusive industry. There are many, many rabbits available at shelters, looking for loving homes. Stay away from pet stores and adopt!

Adoption Anyone?

2008-10-15T22:37:00.008-04:00

LoveBug is looking for a loving forever home! She has been a terrific foster bunny and boasts some enviable qualities. She's three years old, spayed, litterbox trained, super friendly, and loves human company. She was dumped at the animal shelter when her previous owner moved and was no longer allowed to keep her.
She is an adorable and affectionate little girl just looking to find her place in the world.

Email me at TheRabbitAdvocate@gmail.com if you are interested in meeting her!

Adoption procedures must follow MSPCA guidelines, which includes a small adoption fee that covers spay surgery, medical examination, and a carrier.

Question from the Audience: Allergies

2008-10-10T21:03:00.000-04:00

Our first blog-emailed question comes from Angy K. in Baltimore, MD:

Q: Hello Rabbit Advocate! I recently adopted a bunny named Toby. Overall he seems to be doing well in my house, he hops around, stays out of trouble and seems to be adjusting well. However, I noticed that he seems to now be sneezing a lot. At least, thats what it sounds like to me. Is it possible he has an allergy?

A: If your rabbit is experiencing frequent sneezing, you should make an appointment with your veterinarian to check him for an upper respiratory infection (colloquially "snuffles") or pneumonia. If these tests come back negative, your rabbit could have allergies.

Believe it or not, rabbit allergies are actually quite common. And I'm not referring here to the kind humans develop to rabbit fur or pet dander. Rabbits get allergies too! Some rabbits are much more sensitive to dust particles in the air than others and will develop recurrent sneezing, runny nose, and teary eyes.

Here are some things you can do to alleviate your rabbit's symptoms:
1) Experiment with a different type of litter. Dusty clay cat litter is a common irritant and the clumping kind should be avoided at all costs because it is dangerous when ingested. Cedar chips can also cause allergic reactions in your rabbit. The best litter I've found is Yesterday's News cat litter. Very absorbent, odor-reducing, affordable and non allergenic. It's also good for the environment, as it is made from recycled newspapers.
2) The hay that you're feeding to your rabbit is covered in dust and could be the culprit. Try buying a higher quality hay, as these are fresher and less dusty. Another thing you can do is shake the dust out of the hay before giving it to your rabbit.
3) If your rabbit's cage is right under a window and it's summer or spring, your rabbit could be reacting to allergens in the air, just like we often do. Moving your rabbit away from the window or door is one preventative measure. Talk to your vet also about the possibility of administering a low-dose antihistamine.
4) It's also possible your bunny is allergic to a new toy/treat/or food. Eliminate any new objects or edible items you've recently introduced and see if the sneezing stops.

Rabbit allergies are quite annoying for your pet and can even be worrying to watch, but they're not causing permanent damage. Adjusting certain environmental factors is your best bet in alleviating symptoms. Good luck!

The Essentials: Approach

2008-10-07T20:35:00.004-04:00

How you approach a rabbit is more important than you might think. As we all know, rabbits are prey animals and this fact should guide you as you interact with your bunny. Accordingly, if your rabbit is relatively skittish, don't walk up to her too quickly. A big, dark object quickly coming at a bunny can be quite scary! Instead sit down on the floor (or get even smaller and lay down) and your curious rabbit will approach you. This is a much less threatening way to interact with your pet and leads to a stronger, more trusting bond.

Another thing to keep in mind is eyesight. Rabbits' eyes are located on the side of their heads, (evolutionarily, for a higher range of sight, to escape those predators!) so naturally they cannot see well right in front of them. You may have noticed your bunny tilting her head to the side when trying to see something in front of her; this is to compensate this blind spot. It's important to be aware of this challenge in visibility, so you don't scare your bunny by coming at her from the front. Rabbits can even react aggressively if they can't make out exactly what is in front of them, so teaching your children about this blind spot can help avoid an accidental scratch.
The best advice on approach is to move slowly, make yourself seem small, and to encourage your rabbit come to you instead of the other way around.

The Essentials: Rabbit Proofing

2008-09-25T12:31:00.000-04:00

Rabbits are not meant to be kept pent up in a cage their entire lives. They need to be able to run around and explore a large area in order to develop intellectually, physically, emotionally, and socially. While keeping your rabbit in dog cage or a large rabbit cage is a good idea when you're gone at work or sleeping, rabbits need to be let out to roam and explore for a few hours daily.

As we know, rabbits are curious creatures. It's almost as if they have a sixth sense which they use to seek out trouble. If there's something they shouldn't get into, they're going to find it.

However, there are some easy things you can do that can not only save you money, but more importantly, your bunny's life.

Electrical wires, telephone cords, computer cables: Rabbits love biting into a good electrical wire. It's got the perfect texture; maybe it's a similar enjoyment as we have with chewing gum. Either way, if wires are exposed, there's a good chance they will get gnawed through. Electrical wires are doubly dangerous because depending on the amount of voltage contained inside, your rabbit could be shocked to death.
The easiest thing to do is move your furniture in a way so that the wires are blocked. Other options include covering wires in a cable sleeve, or cord protector, or taping it down in the corner with duck tape (not the most aesthetically pleasing option but it works).
Carpet, baseboards, and wood furniture: I've found the best way to control the unpleasant situations of teeth-marked furniture or pulled up carpet is by patient and attentive training. A loud clap or sudden "no!" can startle a rabbit away from a tasty wooden table leg and if done so consistently, the rabbit can be conditioned to not nibble on these valuables. Providing alternatives here is the key. (See below for a list.) And since one of the appeals of carpet, baseboards, and furniture (besides the interesting textures!) is that they are stationary (unlike most rabbit toys), consider wiring a cardboard box to the side of the cage or wedging the wooden chew toy between the cage wires. For some reason, it's a lot more fun to chew things that don't move!
Poisonous plants: The Sacramento House Rabbit Society has a extensive list of plants that can harm your rabbit. However, keeping any large plant on the ground is pretty much asking for trouble. Even if it's not poisonous, chances are your rabbit will eat the leaves, dig up the soil and cause an all-around mess. Best to just move your plants out of these rooms or keep them off the ground.
Miscellaneous objects:
For specific objects that you don't want your rabbit to get to, you might have to get creative. For instance, if your closet doesn't have a door, use hanging shoe shelves to keep shoes out of reach. Fold your bed covers in half so they don't hang over the edge and provide easy chewing access.
One of the best things you can do is provide lots of safe distractions such as cardboard boxes and tubes, balls, newspaper (only if your rabbit doesn't ingest it), timothy hay, wood toys and mineral chews.

Boredom is usually to blame for heightened troublemaking, so giving your pet lots of supervised roaming time, entertainment and interaction diminishes their troublemaking capacity.

Baloo's Story

2008-09-24T11:22:00.000-04:00

Just a quick shout out to Baloo, my foster rabbit who was adopted this weekend. Congrats little buddy!
Baloo and two female rabbits were dumped off at the MSPCA three months ago by their previous owner. The owner owned Baloo for five years and during this time never once cut his nails, let him out of his cage, or even named him. As you can imagine, Baloo needed some work.
First things first. Rabbits need to get their nails trimmed once every two-three months so they don't grow uncomfortably long. When nail trimming is neglected, the nerve can grow out with the nail and this can be very painful for a rabbit.
Secondly, the lack of physical contact and necessary play had rendered Baloo into a frightened, socially uncomfortable animal. At the shelter, he hid in a box, terrified, and refused to come out. It was clear he needed some special attention before he could be adopted.
Baloo came to stay with me and my rabbit Graysie. There, he learned about the joys of hopping around and exploring the sights and smells of a house. He also learned that humans can be caring, patient, and loving. And like most rabbits, this is all he needed before he began developing normal and trusting relationships with people.
After a month and a half, I started looking for an adoptive home for him and one month later found a woman who fell in love with his cute face and kind manner immediately. Baloo's story just shows what amazing pets rabbits can be as long as they are understood and are treated with love, patience and respect.

Question from the Audience: Holding and Aggression

2008-09-20T09:57:00.001-04:00

Our first question comes from a woman who recently contacted me via Craigslist to ask about her bunny's unpleasant behavior:

Q: I was wondering if you could help me. I have a beautiful black mini lop born in February. She was wonderful with my daughter but now she will only let me hold her and she still gives me a tough time sometimes. We love her but I am feeling bad for her because my daughter (age 5) wants to play with her but she charges at her every time she puts her hand in the cage. My daughter is very hands on with her pets and the bunny was handled constantly as a baby leading me to believe that she would always be fine when my daughter held her.

We take excellent care of her... providing a clean cage, food, water, hay, trimmed nails, etc. but I feel she is not getting the attention she deserves. I hesitate to look for someone to take her because I am afraid she will not get the care she has here. Even though she is not being held on a regular basis she is at least getting the proper care.

A:
It's great to hear that you are taking such excellent care of your rabbit and that you want to improve you and your daughter's relationship with your pet instead of surrendering her. Believe it or not, there are two very simple solutions to your rabbit's behavioral problems.

It is a common misconception that rabbits like to be held. In fact, they do not. Rabbits were intended to live on and under the ground, where they can feel important danger-signaling vibrations and where they have the ability to flee when threatened. When you pick up your bunny, you are depriving her of this need to be in contact with the ground and are actually acting as a predator who is restraining her. Therefore your rabbit has learned to view you not as a friend but as a threat. The best way to enjoy a bunny is by letting them out of their cage to hop around. If you calmly sit on the floor, the rabbit will usually come up to you, and if you pet them on their heads, will often lay down next to you. It might take a lot of patience for this to happen with your pet, since you will need to regain her trust after all the picking up and holding.

The second issue can be solved easily as well. You mentioned that your daughter gets charged "every time she puts her hand in the cage." No one should ever put their hand in the rabbit's cage (except when cleaning or feeding), especially if he/she acts territorial. When your daughter puts her hand in the cage, your rabbit feels its home is being invaded and she feels the need to protect it. This goes hand in hand with being picked up-- you should never hold a rabbit unnecessarily, and you should never forcibly remove it from its cage. You should open the cage door and let her roam around a rabbit-proofed (wires hidden, poisonous plants moved) large room. If your daughter sits and waits, your rabbit will likely come up to her in a friendly and non-threatening way. The rabbit's cage is its home and if you keep invading that personal space, your rabbit will develop defensive behaviors. Instead, let your bunny out of her cage daily where she will get rid of pent up energy, be intellectually stimulated and given a chance to approach you for interaction.

Welcome!

2008-09-19T09:26:00.000-04:00

Welcome to The Rabbit Advocate! Rabbits are becoming increasingly popular pets. And they should be! As a long time rabbit (and many other dog/cat-substituting pets, including fish, hamsters, frogs, and an iguana) owner, I can attest to the singular joy these adorable creatures can bring. The problem--and the inspiration behind this newborn blog--is that rabbits are all too often misunderstood. They are commonly viewed as soft stuffed animal toys, as big-eared cats, or even as rampant rodents with little awareness.
This blog attempts to explore, explain and educate about the intricacies of bunny behavior in order to encourage strong, loving relationships between pet and owner. It is my belief that if humans better understood their floppy-eared companions, shelters would not be flooded with rabbits abandoned as a result of common misunderstandings which have led to broken bonds, or bonds that were never created.
I will attempt to explore an area of rabbit behavior each week, and answer specific questions posted by you.